I had an electrical issue show up yesterday. While I was out driving the red alternator light started flashing. I pulled over and checked the engine bay for any wiring issues. Everything looked fine. The regulator was pretty hot. Hotter that the nearby metal pieces. I shut the car off and it started right back up. THe red light was no longer flashing but I could hear the tic, tic, tic ... like it was making when it was flashing , but this time no light. Drove back to the garage and read some manuals. The manuals lead me to check to see if the belt was loose and it was.

I tightened the belt tonight and started the car. No blinking red light but still had the tic, tic .... The volt meter seemed to be registering fine. I decided to drive down the street to see how things would behave. All seemed fine except The voltmeter needle was moving sporadically a couple of times but went back to behaving normally. I shut the car off and tried to restart and had absolutely nothing. Nothing would work lights, radio, horn.... I disconnected the negative post and reconnected and tried again. The electrical system had life but it was too weak to turn over the starter. I disconnected and reconnected the negative post again and it went back to completely dead. Thought what the hell and disconnected both negative and positive terminals and then reconnected. The electrical system was back and the car started right up like there wasn't a problem, except for the tic, tic, tic....

She's in the garage now and I'm trying to decide what to try first. Change the regulator? Change a relay . I have learned alot about the electrical system already but obviously have an opportunity to learn more. I am short on time over the next couple of weeks, so any suggestions on what to try first will be greatly appreciated.

I know how much everyone likes pics so here's a pic

Clean the battery posts and the clamps for those posts with a wire brush. Your FLAPS probably sells a battery terminal cleaner tool with a brush inside a cup for the post, and a wire "cattail" brush for the inside of the clamps.

That's the first step.

Then check what the battery voltage is right now. No, not with the voltmeter in the car--it's there for "entertainment" only. With a real voltmeter across the battery terminals themselves.

--DD

The terminals are disconnected the reading is 12.53 volts. This is where it has been each time that I have checked it over the last few months.

Well ,the most you will have is 12.6 / less surface charged so you good there. I haven't worked with a lot of external voltage regulators but I do know regulators take the orders from the battery so to speak. In a round about way the fact you may have had a skewed positive battery connection may have set the regulator in action. The fact its now clicking and hot it may have damaged. Since you battery is up and charged lends me to think the alternator has good output and is likely fine. I would replace the regulator if the connections look good.

The alternator is new and should be good. It has been good for 1400 miles since installation. The ticking sound is coming from the dash, it is not coming from the regulator. It may be coming from the fuse block assembly which has relays on the back side, that is why I thought that a relay may be something to check into.

ticking like the turn signals or the brake warning light? very slim possibility that when you release the parking brake handle, the switch that the handle should close gets missed..... but if you missed the switch, the light should still flash....????

Love that attitude

Also like how the badge keeps showing up in different places

I would check the relays as well but that doesn't explain the situation. My vote is regulator as well.

[quote name='Dave_Darling' date='Aug 1 2006, 11:46 PM' post='743442']
Clean the battery posts and the clamps for those posts with a wire brush. Your FLAPS probably sells a battery terminal cleaner tool with a brush inside a cup for the post, and a wire "cattail" brush for the inside of the clamps.

Dave, there is nothing to clean on this car.

Dude, there's always something to clean!

But I get your meaning--the battery posts are all nice and shiny, right? If that's the case... I dunno, try replacing the VR I guess. As the others above have suggested.

The ticking is, I believe, a separate issue.

--DD

Does the Emergency Brake idiot light work?

Could it be your brake warning circuit clicking with a bad or disconnected idiot light bulb?

If the clicking is coming from under the dash, I believe that it will be related to the flasher relay.

Is one of your turn signals turned on when you hear the click click click?

Unplug that relay and see if the clicking goes away. If the noise goes away, it's time for more troubleshooting.

It's the black wire on the starter. Tighten it up. Or put it back on or whatever. That nut comes loose if it's not torqued, you loose your charging ability until finally the damn thing falls off and it doesn't start anymore.

What was the verdict?

hi, I just had a very very similar experience...

I finally got around to fixing my driving lights..so now they were on..

I was now drawing just a little bit more than usual, and the light started to blink...

It ended up being the two small hot wires on the battery post were sitting in a corroded mess..took them off, wire brushed all the terminals, and bing..all set..

I had to do the good old hill parking for a few days till I got around to it..

I have also, in the past, run a heavy duty ground lead from the battery post to the lower bolt on the starter housing...the one that is a stud coming out of the engine case....that helped out with the weak ass ground strap from the trunk floor (I have two there now)

So try those two things..clean clean clean..all the connections to the starter...

If all of that does not fix it..you may need to look at the ignition switch itself...

Good luck..

Rich.

Hey Guys - Thanks for the replys. I'm a 1000 miles south of the car now ( keeping my toes in the sand and a cool drink in my hand) and won't be able to try the suggestions for a few days. I have a couple of spare regulators around, so switching it out should be easy. I have not see a parking brake idiot light on, so maybe there is something going on with the brake circuit. I think Rich has a good point also. The positive battery post connections is an area of the car that still needs my level of detail added . Right now it is not pretty, and I have not cleaned it since I put it together months ago. When I get back I think that I'll try this one first.