Hi all,

New engine is up and running, all very exciting. Problem is: I can't shift into 1st, 3rd, or 5th gear.

I fiddled extensively with the shift linkage today.. seems adjusting the shift linkage in the 2nd-3rd plane didn't make a difference. I can shift into reverse, 2nd, and 4th fine.. when I try to shift into 1st, 3rd, or 5th it takes a huge amount of effort and finally pops 'in'.. but it's not actually in gear.. you can feel a bit of grinding if you push the shifter further towards the rear of the car, but it won't go into gear.

This is pissing me off.. suggestions?

When you put the shift rod back in the coupler (at the firewall), you may have rotated it one spline on the end of the rod. Did you mark the shift rod and coupler so they are "indexed" together? I think this will cause the problem.

Try taking the rod out of the coupling and rotate it around one spline and then put rod back in the coupler.

Paul

I was having some troubles too. It was inside the car, under the plate between the seats at the firewall where the linkage connects.

I solved it by loosening the clamp bolt. at the tailshift, center the shifting "ball and arm" where nuetral would be, then inside the car set the gearshift lever where nuetral should be. then retighten the linkage.

Let's hear more about your engine!

Engine is:

66mm Crank, 96mm P+C's (1911cc)
2.0L heads with 48x38 valves
Eurorace H-Grind Camshaft
Dual Weber 40IDF with CB Performance Linkage
Mallory Unilite Distributor with Vac Advance
Ceramic coated European Racing Headers with a Magnaflow exhaust
etc etc etc..

Starts up like a champ, runs nice and smooth all the way to 4k rpm.. haven't done any higher revs than that.

I'll try fscking with the splines under the 'center seat' a little bit more.

get the f.i. fuel line clamps. how did you plumb the vac advance? on the shift issue. you may want to examine the roll pin up behind the access plate on the bottom rear of the trans.

kevin

I just replaced that damn roll pin twice in the last year. I don't understand the physics of the situation in which that roll pin allows shifting into one set of gears (R,2,4) but not into the other (1,3,5).

as people jam it into gear the stupid thing bends eventually it lets go all together (btdt). force it more, it bends more. did you use the triple rolled as opposed to the single? with all the leverage you exert alot of shear force on the pin. considerit to be the equivilant of a shear pin in a outboard engine prop. did you do all of the bushings? to include the ball socket and both balls where the 2nd front rod meets the rear rod. now, about that line from the dist to the carb(s)...

kevin

if the shift linkage is too long, it won't allow the the linkage enough forward travel to engage the front gears at the tail shift, (1, 3, 5).

well put. as the pin bends in the 1,3,5 the whole shebang gets longer. tighten it up and it gets longer. then it breaks just before you have to stop at stop signs on hills while you're in 3rd gear. then you get that sick/sweet smell of clutch.

kevin

Nice looking engine! Where does the heads vent piping route to? Back to the PVC on the oil filler?
Got to get rid of that backpressure from the inside of the engine otherwise the engine will be leaking oil pretty soon. Carb guys run that oil catch thingy to let the crankcase breath.

Geoff

Okay, it's not the roll pin.. I took the linkage off and can manually shift into all gears (and drive in those gears) with no problem at all.

I think the linkage is binding somewhere.. I need about a 1/4" more travel at the end of the linkage to get the damn thing to go into gear. Doesn't matter if I shorten or extend the linkage assembly (by adjusting the splines under the center seat)... like I said, it feels like something is binding up.

Vacuum advance is just coming from the vacuum advance nipple on the carb. body.

As for using the fuel injection clamps, I don't know what you're talking about.

Anymore suggestions? This is unbelievably frustrating.

one down. did you replace the cup in the bottom of the shift lever? how about the two balls? if those are shot it's metal to metal. items #6, #53 (2) p.90 haynes. if the end of the rear shift rod is severly worn you may have to build it up and reduce to fit. other than those i'm at a loss. now it's the tranny guys turn to step up.

kevin

The cup at the bottom of the shift lever was replaced about 6 months to a year ago.. and I know it's not that because:

If I 'disconnect' the two shift rod couplings under the center seat (that is loosen them so that the shifter has no effect on the rear portion of the linkage).. I cannot get the linkage that's attached to the transmission to go into 1st, 3rd, or 5th.. which means that something is binding near the firewall.. either the linkage is hitting the firewall or... ?

Okay, with the car over the pit..

The rear shift linkage bar is hitting the firewall.. the reason I can't get into the 1, 3, 5 plane is because the length of the linkage bar is 'too long'.. I need about a quarter of an inch more.

Does anyone know how to remedy this problem?

Why is my shift linkage now hitting the firewall when it didn't interfere before?

How bizarre..

Fuel Injec tion hose clamps:



Available at NAPA pn 7051225 for 1/4 inch, 7051226 for 5/16 inch, and 7051227 for 3/8 inch.

Can someone enlighten me on the difference between fuel injection hose clamps and standard fuel hose clamps? Fuel pressure is only 3.5 psi.

As for the shifter problem, I finally just said screw it.. cut out a 1/2" section of the shifter bar and welded it back together. Problem solved.

The non-FI hose clamps have slots that cut into the hose. Not a big deal with carbs.

That's a nice motor. How does it feel with all 5 gears?

Mock:

Somehow you've shifted the engine and tranny on the mounts. Loosen the mounts and move the entire engine and tranny to give you the room you need.

James

Better yet: SPend the money and get a side shift tranny....

The spending of the money to get the sideshift transmission will happen soon, but not yet. One step at a time, as I say.. but it will happen.

The engine feels fantastic.. except for that darn carb problem I have. Even from accelerating through the use of gradual accelerator pedal action, it feels VERY quick.. and feels like it revs much faster than my old 1.7.

As soon as I get this carb problem fixed, I'm going to take a few videos with my digital camera and I'll post them here (or another site) for all to see.

If you want pictures of other parts of the car though, just let me know.