My teener is really pissing me off .. when it runs I love it but it has only run right a few times and I can really pin down why ...

I think I might sell out to go back to bikes ... maybe a yamaha RZ500

what are the variables that exist when it runs right or bad? do you have anything solid in terms of that information?

won't idle right and wantsto die .. sometimes won't start at all .. runs overly hot consantly , burns oil and turns new oil dark black after one drive ...I have replaced most of the sensors - vac lines , injectors , brian box .. aww hell most of th fi system .. oh and the trans is becoming very nothy and hard to put in gear .. new clutch and swepco ...basicly it feels like I either do a rebuild ( that the PO said was done before I got ) or a rabty engine swap .. both $$ that i am not sure I want to go into ...

I love the car ... I have wanted one sice I was 12 .. but damn , all I want to do atleast for a little while hop in it and go ...

so it runs too rich it sounds like....the plugs and exhaust smell confirm?


which sensors have you replaced specifically

Have you taken it to Brad Mayeur in Peoria yet?

It can be frustrating dealing with a car that won't cooperate. One of my cars is currently on my shit list, as I fix things, but they don't stay fixed. My solution right now is to park it and ignore it for awhile, and work on another project.

Have you tested your MPS, yet? A bad one will cause all kinds of poor running problems.

On the gearbox, is it hard to get into gear on just one or two gears, or all of them?

replaced all temp sensors .. replaced the mps it does seem to run rich but the plugs are not all jacked up or anything


I am afraid to take to brad for fear of the mucho $$$ it make cost me

gear box 1-3 is very notchy

I can't speak for Brad, but you are not that far from him. Brad could at least tell you what it could be and approx $$ to fix. Have you called him?? Better yet come to my BBQ Saturday and talk to him in person.

Shamless plug for the BBQ

Hi Mike.

Sorry to hear you are still having so many problems with your car. Whenever I troubleshoot a system (car or whatever) I try to keep with the KISS principle. Keep it simple. Make a list and go down it. I saw you were looking for the vacuum fitting recently. Did you get it? I think you tried to do a lot of things before fixing this leak. Fix all leaks first! Did you do a compression test? You can borrow my gage again if you like. Valves, Did you adjust them. Best to do that and then do a compression test.

I have been busy lately but I am willing to help. If you can find some time to limp your car here, We can go through it. You have my number. Call if interested

Mark

I've had cars like that. An MGB comes foremost to mind. It made me crazy, swearing at one moment praising it the next.

I've never regreted getting rid of it.

Regards,
Kevin

BTDT... yessirre-Bob for the same reasons.
Sold it, bought a Miata... SOLD IT (after 9 months) and made $ on it!

Now I'm looking for a V6 or 8 conversion 914.

You May Leave
But,
You'll Always Come Back

...b

Brad.

new engine.

Thats what I did. I said, its either gona cost me 3k to rebuild the engine right so it doesnt crap out on me, or I'll put something else in it..

Thats what lead me to a v8 swap.


I say you should go with a subaru engine... Non turbo, something uber cheap.. engine mount radiator.. 160hp.. BAM.. don worry...... be happy.

well said eric... I don't know if I have my kids that weekend of the BBQ if I don't I wll be out with the limping teener to let brad take a peak ..

what is the cost of a basic suby covversion vs like a bolt in raby 2056 turn key?

basic suby conversion... Rennegade doing all the work, or you doing all the work? 2056 is 5k...

http://www.turbo914.com/

junkyard subi engine that runs perfect.. figure 500
If you go with a engine bay mount radiator.. you'll need a lot of fabrication skills. You CAN do it for 2k total or less.. some guys have done it, but they were fabricators like me.. I dont know your skills and tool avalibility.

BUT.. Keeping your suspension and everything else.. This is the rennegade list, of the max it will cost you.

$1995 BASIC SUBARU CONVERSION KIT. (not sold seperately) Includes:
- Renegade Hybrids cradle style mount
- rubber isolators
- mount plates (front)
- mount plates (rear)
- billet adapter plate
- custom 9" flywheel
- pilot bearing
- throw out bearing
- Kevlar 9" clutch disc
- stage two 9" pressure plate
- all necessary hardware
NOTE: This kit includes the high-perfomance 9" clutch upgrade already. The 9" clutch components will handle up to 400 hp and 400 foot pounds of torque...more than the 914 transaxle can typical handle!
$995 COMPLETE COOLING SYSTEM
$110 RADIATOR HOSE
$30 COOLANT HOSE ADAPTERS
$25 COOLANT TEMP SENDER: Customized VDO unit
$45 OIL PRESSURE SENDER: Customized VDO unit

$350 TURBO RELOCATION KIT (optional if turbo, you can make this)
$450 INTERCOOLER RELOCATION KIT (optional if turbo, you can make this)
$300 CUSTOM SPEED SENSOR KIT (no clue why this is on there.. but optional)
$200 CUSTOM SHIFT ROD (you can have a welder do this.. optional)
$100 TANK RETURN MODIFICATION (if you have FI, no need for this)
$100 AUGER STYLE MUFFLER (your gona need some money for exhaust stuff..)

So.. Under 4k... Thats if you have rennegade provide you with everything to do it right.

On their web page they have a LOT of other stuff in the "kit" that makes it cost much more than you need it to.

Tell me your skill level and tool avalibility... Subi is a VERY good choice.. It took me months to decide between it and a v8.

I have basic tools .. an aircompressor.. that's about it .. no welder ... I have mechanic skills but far from a frabricator... I rebuild old VW as a side job ...

so what on that whole list do I really need and how long do you think it would take to do the conversion ..

that 500.00 for the engine does that include the brain box too?

I asked mc mark he was saying an aboulte turn key was gonna be $7K

Ok... Check your local pick and pull for subaru's.. Check out the website that I gave you for subaru engine info and years.

Bare minimum? Alright then. YOu are in good shape to put it all together.

First question, turbo or non turbo? (PS, you can ALWAYS upgrade..)

[quote name='sk8kat1' date='Aug 2 2006, 02:42 PM' post='744016']
[quote name='Andyrew' post='744008' date='Aug 2 2006, 02:32 PM']
basic suby conversion... Rennegade doing all the work, or you doing all the work? 2056 is 5k...

http://www.turbo914.com/

junkyard subi engine that runs perfect.. figure 500
If you go with a engine bay mount radiator.. you'll need a lot of fabrication skills. You CAN do it for 2k total or less.. some guys have done it, but they were fabricators like me.. I dont know your skills and tool avalibility.

BUT.. Keeping your suspension and everything else.. This is the rennegade list, of the max it will cost you.

$1995 BASIC SUBARU CONVERSION KIT. (not sold seperately) Includes:
- Renegade Hybrids cradle style mount
- rubber isolators
- mount plates (front)
- mount plates (rear)
- billet adapter plate
- custom 9" flywheel
- pilot bearing
- throw out bearing
- Kevlar 9" clutch disc
- stage two 9" pressure plate
- all necessary hardware
NOTE: This kit includes the high-perfomance 9" clutch upgrade already. The 9" clutch components will handle up to 400 hp and 400 foot pounds of torque...more than the 914 transaxle can typical handle!
$995 COMPLETE COOLING SYSTEM
$110 RADIATOR HOSE
$30 COOLANT HOSE ADAPTERS
$25 COOLANT TEMP SENDER: Customized VDO unit
$45 OIL PRESSURE SENDER: Customized VDO unit

$350 TURBO RELOCATION KIT (optional if turbo, you can make this)
$450 INTERCOOLER RELOCATION KIT (optional if turbo, you can make this)
$300 CUSTOM SPEED SENSOR KIT (no clue why this is on there.. but optional)
$200 CUSTOM SHIFT ROD (you can have a welder do this.. optional)
$100 TANK RETURN MODIFICATION (if you have FI, no need for this)
$100 AUGER STYLE MUFFLER (your gona need some money for exhaust stuff..)

So.. Under 4k... Thats if you have rennegade provide you with everything to do it right.

On their web page they have a LOT of other stuff in the "kit" that makes it cost much more than you need it to.

Tell me your skill level and tool avalibility... Subi is a VERY good choice.. It took me months to decide between it and a v8.
[/quote]

oops sorry didn't notice your notes next othe items.. pls ingnore that question

I would say non turbo for sake of $$-

- how much can you sell a good long block 2.0L for with some questionable FI attached?

I am finding them on car-part.com -- but are stating manual or auto .. does that make a diff to us?

4k is bare minimum that I believe you can just bolt on the parts for. This will be a front radiator setup...

YOu dont have the skills I believe or the time to do a engine bay radiator setup. and I believe the that built one, is not willing to do more.



The thing that would kill you would be the engine harness. I wont like to you... That will be a PITA..

Ditching it and going with a full megasquirt system (it will require some tuning.. but it would be really simple) would be a nice setup and not that much money... I'd budget 600 bucks.

Let's see... we went from I'm dumping it to I'm dumping a lot of money into it.

(Brad and a tune up).

Much as I hate to say it, you might just try a pair of carbs. It will get you a running engine for as little as $300, assuming the engine itself is still sound. If it's not, then you face rebuilding it, or selling all your Type IV stuff and going for a conversion. Or just buy another Type IV. They're out there, and well under the cost of a rebuild. I have a nicely running T4 I'll be selling in a few months once I finish my 6 conversion. I'm sure there are other engines out there on the market for similar reasons.

From the sound of it, your gearbox is also going to need some attention, at least a Dr. Evil/redbeard class "refurbishing" not a complete rebuild.

Another angle is to sell this car and buy another 914. There ARE 914s out there that run well, and aren't rust-buckets. Buying one would probably cost you less than a T4 rebuild. Certainly, you could get a good car for under $7K. You now know more about them, so you can do a better job in inspecting it prior to purchase.

well that is the 914 way .. put on jackstands and dump in more$$

Has anyone mentioned Brad yet?

Seriously... a good mechanic like Brad can go a long way toward making you and your car happy. In the end it may be less that you expect.

I have to agree... you've already dumped a s-load of money in parts.

Look before you leap my man.

You may be just missing something simple - ya don't know until you get it checked out.

I would agree with them at this point.. Take it to someone who knows what there looking at.. Brad...

If he says it needs $$$.. then you can decide.

The BBQ is in three days on the 5th. If you have the kids, bring them and leave the limping teener at home. My 4 1/2 yr old will keep the kids busy, and we have a nice playset in the back yard.

Before I went to Brad or did a conversion or rebuilt the engine I would first tune the car up myself and set everything to factory settings.

valves
timing
dwell/points
check ignition (how old are wires?)
check for vacuum MPS with a MityVac
check fuel pressure
all new vacuum hoses (like $20)
check vacuum canister on distributor and make sure advance works (lube plates if sticky)

I would also look at pbander's troubleshooting tips and try and test any component that can easily be tested:

http://members.rennlist.com/pbanders/djetp...tm#troubleshoot

the evolution of this thread: from should i sell my frustrating 914 to a lead on a cool bbq, several engine options, and some tools and guys to do some testing.

well done chaps....