On the toe truck. I was on my way to work, heard a "clunk" in the back end and, no go. I think something let loose in the tranny.

Kind of a bummer. Hopefully it's not major

motor runs fine but no power to the wheels.

that's tow truck

could be something as simple as a loosened CV joint...good luck

don't fear just yet. could be relatively simple/cheap

on one of the CV's I did take off the clip and removed the center piece. The clip may have let go.

Stupid question: If one CV is not working would it dissable the car?
Nother stupid Question: which side is the drive?

Happened to me. CV joint broke (the end on the inside of the wheel). Not too expensive, well worth having a shop do it for you though... I think the shop I took it to had a used CV, charged me like $30 for it and $125 or so for the labor.

-pt

Yupperz....my guess too....CV.

what part on the CV broke?

Good luck. I just had my first walk home from a 914 drive 2 nights ago. Pulled up to an intersection and the engine stalled. I had the idle very low (not on purpose) and hadn't adjusted it.

Tried to start it and it acted as if the wire to the coil was off. No spark, not even a chance at starting up.

I pumped the throttle a bit and the throttle cable snapped. Called the wife at 12:15AM to come get me. My buddy pulled the 914 home yesterday with his van.

Yesterday I ordered a new throttle cable and repaired the old one so I could try to start the car to see what was the matter. 1 crank and it started right up!!??!!?? WTF??? Maybe I flooded it the other night?

Spoke

Yes. One will do it.

Both. The rearend uses spider gears and the power is transfered from one side to the other, depending on surface conditions.

I only took a quick look at the mangled mess when the mechanic showed it to me. There were pieces of broken metal... The actaul breakage was preceeded by a mysterious "clunk" that I couldn't quite track down for the longest time. Once the CV got fixed the "clunk" disappeared...

Usually the cage for the balls breakes and the balls are than pushed out of the
grooves and with this the connection from outer to inner joint is lost. Result is like
lifting one wheel of the ground and trying to drive off. Dimitri

I remember seeing an artical somewhere on the net that explained the differance between different types of v/w and porsche cv's. I can't find it, does anyone have the link?

you guy's are good! it was the CV, the good news is, it's ok. It looks like the bolts came loose and it was laying in the A arm.

I am missing a roll pin, is it ok to run it with 1 roll pin?

Mine exploded on the track....3rd gear downshift with my 3.0/6......twasn't pretty.

I had an extra shaft and CVs in my tow rig and tossed it in for the afternoon session.

Toe truck:

Get another roll pin, washers for the bolts and put it back on right or repeat what ya just had. Need some bolts and washers?

Thank's for the offer, I have extras. Is it possible to use a different style roll pin like something from orchard supply with the same O.D..

Yeah I broke a CV in half 3 or 4 months ago. What surprised me was even with the LSD I couldn't go anywhere(quaife). I was about a half mile from home so I just pushed it the whole way.

You might want to check if Dr Evil has any of the drilled bolts. That way you can wire them and this won't happen again. At least on that side(buy them for both).

Sounds like a bad trip to me.

sorry for the bump guy's. I am wondering if it is possible to use a roll pin in place of the stock pin for the CV?

So long as the size is right it should be fine. The basic concept is that it needs to transfer motion and torque. If it is stout enough in your opinion I am sure it will work.

Thank's for the help, I am going to give it a try

Hehe, I noticed the same thing when I accidentally backed my Mustang over a curb and got one rear wheel freewheeling in the air on the other side of the curb. I have an Auburn Gear limited slip, but with one wheel in the air I couldn't get anywhere. I jacked up the side that was stuck, and even then I could just barely get enough torque to the ground to drive off the jack. Had to do that 3 or 4 times until I could get a bite on pavement with both wheels.

BTW, limited slip pricing for old 'merican cars would make you cry..

Here is the fix I made to replace the roll pin I was missng. My first thought was to use a split style roll pin. Looking at it close, I realized it wouldnt work, it needs to be a solid piece.
What I did was used a 3/8" steel spacer this gave me a slip fit. I found a old rocker arm stud and cut out the center so I had a smooth shank. With a dremel tool I tappered the ends and drove into the center of the steel spacer.It opened the spacer up just enough to give me a press fit. With the dremel I tapered the ends of the spacer and it was enough to TAP it in with a hammer. I think it will be stronger than stock due to the fact that there is solid contact all the way around.

Wow.. You know you can buy new pins, right?

I know, I don't have a place readily accessable to purchase one. EASY is about an hour one way. This cost me .79cents and only took an hour to make.

The car is now fixed and ready to go.