Well here it goes the step by step instructions on how to build one of the kits. Since I helped do the original production run, back in the day, its been about 11 years ago since we did these. But there is interest in it so I will show you how.

Step one, the original kit. It included a gauge face, a backing plate and a ground lug. Also included instructions on how to do this, and some of the items where real PITAs to do. I will included some changes I do, and items that might make the installation a little easier.

Next you have to gather two instruments, chance are one you already have. It is what everybody calls a 914 combo gauge. Most have a huge brake warning light, rarer are the ones that include an oil temperature gauge. So you can take one out of your car, or source a different one.

The back of the gauge will look like this notice the spade connectors. This is the early style - I will show you how to setup for the latter style gauge also. It is much easier to mount.

A late model gauge will have a connector like this.

The other is a 911 oil temperature gauge and pressure gauge, you need the latter style, it looks something like this. Not this is an early model with spade connectors. I have one already apart, that has the correct late style connectors. Jot down the year of the car that the gauge came out of it you know it. You will need it latter to pick the correct senders. Chart will fill in the details.

This is an early gauge - its the only one I had together.

The connectors are the same as posted two above. You really need these, you could modify the backer to hold the early style gauges, but you ill be hating life, they are a real PITA.

Tools of the trade:

Screw drivers flate blade
7mm nut driver
Pliers
Nibblers
Snips
A large Drill bit, I use a 3/4 inch, but a 1/2 will do.
A soldering Iron if you are using the early style fuel gauge.
Plenty of time and patience

First step is to remove all the gauge mechanisms out of the back side of the gauges bodies.

4 screws hold these in place.

Place the gauge face down on a cloth and take them out. Keep all your parts until you finish the build.

The fuel gauge will come out, but you can't pull it straight up. You must tip it and raise the right side up first if your looking at it closest to you. Just be gentle it does come out of there.

Here it is out of the gauge front view, and rear view also.

I like to take them apart along the way. It is just how I do it, not sure why its just how I have done them for years. So first you need to heat up the soldering iron, and remove the solder from the two spade connectors. I heat the solder up, and strike the gauge back against the bench with a tap, the solder will fall off. Watch out you can burn yourself good doing this. You could also use solder wick if you wanted.

Next you remove the gauge mechanism from the mounting plate, on the early 914 fuel gauge it is one simple nut. It requires a special tool, if you want to keep it concourse, I use this! A pair of BMFP

Next is wheere the fun really begins, removing the spade connectors from the mounting plate.

First you must bend up the little tabes that hold the connector onto the mounting plate. There are two pe connector, be really careful or else you break the conector. And life becomes a little but harder.

So first I take a really small screwdriver and wedge it between the fiber insulator and the gauge mount plate lik this. Slide it in and gentaly pry up. Next I do the same ontop of the fiber insulator, and last I grab it with a small set of kneedle knows pliers and make it straight.

Note to self pull camera back, dang those where blurry.

Okay I take my small pliers and screw drivers and gently pull the fiber ring up off the connectors. the connector will fall out after this is done, so make sure you track where it goes.

Left is a good connector, right is one I screwed up. so be careful, take your time, or else you will be looking at other ways of fixing this problem.

Next up the 911 oil temp and pressure gauge mechanism disassembly, the are both the same so just repeat and rinse these twice. Well three times if you use a late style fuel gauge. You will now see why I recommend using the late style fuel gauge. This is so much easier, and you don't risk getting burnt. Tip here: stuff a little paper into the tip of your 7-mm socket or nut driver, it will make it easier to reassemble the gauge pieces latter. The nut won't burry itself in your socket and never start back on the shaft. Trust me there is no room for your fingers in there. Second is who the nut will look since you modded your nut driver.

Pretty simple here you take your 7-mm nut driver. And back out the nut in the center of the three spade connectors. The center ground lug will come off with the nut. If you can not remove the connector from the mount, you can take that small screw driver and pry up gently it will pop off, and everything will fall apart.

Now the best part, put all these dissasembled pieces into a storage container re-assembled. Note the order of how the early fuel gauge goes togtheer.

Now onto the real fun, takeing the bevel apart. The pros just cut them off you are about to see why. First remove the rubber surround. Next you need to have a gental touch and don't worry about the paint that flakes off, thats fixable. You strat by gentally twisiting your screw driver, I made a special tool for this I have since lost.

Move the bevel metal out a little at a time. A trick I use is I only go around the bevel , 2/3rs of the way. With some minor struggle it will come off. And then you have less to repair latter. Take your time here. It is worth it in the long run, trust me.

Boy I wish I had photshop right now. The screw driver is pointing to where I started and stopped my bevel decrimping. About 2/3rds of the way around.

This is the order that the bevel comes apart.

1. Trim ring outer

2. Trim ring inner, yep there are two of them.

3. Glass or plastic, if you have plastic and a glass unit use the glass.

Next up after the glass is removed, you have an inner trim ring.

After that the guage face.

After that we have the inner guts of the gauge. Some times the light lenses stick to the gauge face other times they stay in the gauge its self.

They are easily removed with a gentle pull.

Next up we must remove all the light bulb tube holders. If you have not removed the light bulb sockets yet now i the time. Some might be stuck after 30 odd years, just use a pair of pliers and gentle twist them to loosen them up, the pull them out.

Here is how you remove the light bulb tubes, they are held in via a crimp that we can not recreate, so you must drill the crimp off. I am using a 3/4" drill bit mounted in my drill press. You can also use a dremel, or a hand file if you want. You just need to remove the metal crimp and that is all.

Now you just pull them out. You must now repeat this step until all these light tubes are removed from the old donor gauges.

This is a good place for me to stop for the night.

Here is what happens when your bit grabs one of the post light thingy. Doah!!!

Now onto the cutting of the rear gauge face. There are two styles of gauge backs that you can be dealing with. The first is the early style. the second one is the late style they removed the extra top window. If you are using the late style you will need to drill out 2 extra holes for the backing plate mount. You will also need to tap these with a 3mm 0.5 tap. I suggest you do this before, you cut the back off.

I like to test fit the gauge kit back onto the orginal gauge back, just to make sure it all will work. Just one simple step to make sure I don't screw up. Which I can do with ease.

Next you draw out your cut lines. I happen to leave just a little of the roll over in from the sides to the back. Makes the gauge stronger - thou that 16 gauge metal should not go any where. Next up Destruction!!!!!!!

Now it is simple you just cut away everything that is not a 904 gauge.

I use three systems depending on my mood. First up shears. I use these to cut away the center bar.

Now I used to use a hand nibbler like this, it was hard work, a pain in the I now use a simpler method. But thats because I finally got a decent saber saw. So I now put a fine tooth blade and cut them out like this, a bench vice is required, I use the wood vice for this.

So when your done it should look like this.

I once again test fit the back, just to make sure I didn't screw it up. Once everything is done, I do once set here that is a good idea. I paint the inner gauge surface white. Helps get the light to bounce around the gauge and makes it so it illuminates better.

Next if you are lucky enough to find a late style fuel gauge you will have to make a templet. to drill the 4 other holes you will need. Make the pattern and mark your holes, here I am using one of my extra backs, I have. After that you need to drill the holes. The bigger holes are 0.247" the smaller holes are 0.160" and the largest outside hole is 0.268". Mark them with a transfer punch or a Sharpie and go to town.

Now you need to test fit the light tubes.

Mix up the epoxy, mine sets in 24 - 48 hours. You can use the 10 minute type, I just had this stuff around, and don't mind waiting for it to set, as long as you don't. I spin the tubes into the epoxy up to the shoulder. I then wipe the excess off on my mixing paper.

Next I spin them into the back to make sure they make full contact. And all done, notice I did step the tubes height. This will help you pull and put in the bulbs. And tis is where I have to stop for a couple days.

So next is line up the gauge face with all the parts, so you know where the idiot lights go.

I mark them with a pencil on the gauge back. It just makes life easier.

Next you add the adapter ( for lack of better term) for the idiot light tubes to the three holes you marked. You might have to file some of your epoxy away to get them to fit. You also need to add an adapter ring for the low fuel warning light. It is the hole to the left of the fuel gauge spade connectors. A picture on the next post shows this in detail.

Next is more fun than you should legally be allowed to have. You have to add the old spade connectors back in for the old style fuel gauges - if you are using the later style - skip this step but you don't know what you are missing.

You take and hold the black plastic piece in the proper spot, add the heavy paper washer back onto the top of the spade connector, and then crimp the two side stubs, see that was easy. I split the paper washer, I will fix that with some insulating goo once I finished the soldering.

Next is the best part marking where you need to cut to get the idiot lights up and through the gauge faces. Rinse and repeat these steps 3 times. Then you cut around your pencil marks. I have a 1/2 in chassis punch I use to do this with, makes nice clean holes. But you can use a standard set of snips, or a nibbler to do this also. A file if you really wanted to, or a dremel if you have a steady hand.

Now you mount a gauge , mount the idiot light tube, mount the next gauge, mount a tube, mount the third and mount a tube. With luck you won't have to adjust your cuts.

Next up fun with a hot piece of metal, and some melty stuff called solder. You have to solder the old fuel gauge leads onto the spade connector.

Wow that last close up shot was out of focus. I took photography lessons for Sir Andy.

We are getting close now!

You get to test fit the inner gauge face onto the gauges.

Note: I have one light tube off, just enough that it does not stay in the hole on the gauge face.

I will show you my solution to the gauge face issue. In the next installment.

Only a few more steps to the finish of this project - now I just need to find the time. BTW, I have three ways to hold the inner face in the inner face in the proper orientation of the face.

1. the way the original directions say to do it. Clips epoxied to the side of the gauge, ouch. That was really a pain to do.

2. You cut out the original face and use its tabs to support the new one, in place this requires epoxy also. I will take pictures of this way.

3. I have come up with a better way, or at least I think it is better, we will see. See you next time.

I love cliff hangers!

Okay lets do it!

I told you I would show you my two favorite ways to do the face, number 1, you cut out the original face and use it to space your above the lights.

Just add a little of your fav epoxy to hold the two together and you might have to touch up a little around the outside edge.

And for the cliff hanger!

This cures a bunch of ills, like my one light tube being out of place, it is a postive mechanical fastener, and it is so easy, wish I came up with it 10 years ago.

First you need to mark the center of the face, if you got one with out a hole. If your building one with a black center this might not work for you. Or it could, with a little camoflage work once you are done.

Next you drill it just a little smaller than the outer face of your counter sunk machine screw. Then you counter sink the face.

Next you drill the center of the back face, and here is the simple part you bolt it togther. Just use a rubber spacer ot keep the screw from grounding out any of the guage connectors.

More pictures