Just got it in today and once asked for dimensions to where to install it and could not get exact specs. Just got a rear bar from a member today so this stock one got installed to match the other stock one I just purchased. The links were installed for centering the general position of the bar itself. The bar is located 1/4" from the corner of the inner front midwall under the tank area. You can see the felt and a small gap behind the bar. Is this the way it needs to go on. LEMENO.

Grrrrrasssyass!

It's 'sposed to go the other way around... ya got it backwards!

Jes' kidding

Looks similar to what I did but it'd be best if you struck some welds around the plate & fender to keep it from moving & wearing a nice big hole.

The Bird board has a How To with exact pics & everything.

.....b

I go to bird board and notice an inside bolt plate duhicky that I didn't get with the set. Crap! Is it realy required or will washers be enough? This plate only helps when the bolts are torked to a specific value so it reacts more as a friction connection and now is stressed at the washers and the shear of the bolts. If that palte was welded, then I can see it's value but just squeezed still marginaly put less stress on the sheet metals shear strenght in relation to the bolts. Will washers be enough? As mentioned before, its only a stock bar and the bar should rotate freely in the rubber bushing.

THNX.

I'd say you mounted the backet upside down as it's supposed to mount "point" down, two bolts on top one on bottom. I should also be centered in the fender indentation.

All that said, I don't know if it'll cause you problems.

Looks like it will work fine to me. By the way, you might want to strap that floor jack down in the front trunk...it'll rattle around in there when you're autocrossing. (kidding)

Ya front ballast for front end response.

I missed the point down thingy. Yup, it should be but... the added plate on the inside adds strength becuz there's a lot of stress in that little hole. There was a club member that made these plates high strength. I think I'd take it apart & re-do it right if'n yer plannin' to drive it hard. Don't wanna rip a fender, right? The mounting holes thru the fender is what holds the sway bar in the place where it performs it magic. If it weren't for the "hold" power there that bar would be moving and not doing it's stablizing thing. It's up to you but you put it there for a reason. If it ain't gonna work... what the hell!

.....b

if you drive the car hard, the sheetmetal around the bolts will eventually tear apart, that is, without the backing plate ...
Andy

what andy said...

i always run a little bead along the backing plate anyway....

BUT...
your triangle is in upside down.

and remember, the template on pelican is helpful, it keeps the swaybar from hitting the gas tank....

I see says the blind man! One concern was the distance being 1/4 from the sheet metal. I screwed up and looked at the bird board today. OOops. The bar is high and thus, as you have mentioned, it may hit the tank. If it does I might have to raise it you think? As for the triangel plate, it allows for the nuts to be held and the one lowered into the little hole one needs to cut in the sheet metal. I guess my bar is at least 1/2 higher than usual and perhaps it would be best to have that plate, easilly fabricated, for extra support.

My rod therefore is 1/2 inch hier and 1/2 inch further forward. Will it work if the tank is elevated just to keep the holes as is?

!!!!!!

do it right. drill 3 holes, using the template.

notch the bulkhead so the triangle plate will fit.

do it right.

Back-up plates, yes.
Shim tank up, yes.


KT

Yes this thing must be done as if it were permanent!! You all have saved me hours of not so good times in the future from this screwup!! Thank you all.

This will be welded, shimmed, whacked, spalted, and solid once done!!!!!

Why I like the Smart bar set-up.

So stout...


KT

WOW! Solid in a sexy industrial kinda way.LOL It seems that this is for a larger diameter bar which is coinsidently higher than stock and the same height as mine!! YES!!! Unless it was a fuel cell setup.

Nice!

Yep - you need nut plates on the inside preferably welded into the car.

I have them in three styles as well as an outer reinforcement piece (but thats for serious autocross and DE)

Pm or email me - these are in the resources section.

M

JPB, I don't think Trekkors sway bar is mounted high. Look at his second photo, you notice how the small box-shelf below the sway bar mount has been cut away? I'm working on my sway bar installation today too. I bought the reinforcement piece from Engman, which is pointed down, the lower bolt is below that box-shelf. I've had to cut away a small piece of that to allow the reinforment to mate up with the drilled holes. Sorry no Pics but I could take some tomorrow.

I couldn't print the Pelican diagram to the correct size, so I just traced the Engman part and replicated Pelican's diagram.

Good luck with your install, I'll let you know how mine turns out later this week.

Trek's is high.

The round aluminum plate almost touches the brake line mounting tab when you have it correct. He drilled his holes with the round plate rotated. He should have one bolt head at 12'o clock and he has two.

I have never had to shim a gas tank with any of the Smart bars (all of them have the same outside diameter)


B