I'm looking to do a 3.0 six, but need to maintain the AC from the four. Likely I'll need a different compressor and mounting scheme, but anyone BTDT?

TIA,

You should be able to find a 3.0 with an AC compressor already attached. Since you already have the condensor and all of the plumbing in the /4, you're most of the way there. The compressor on the 911 is typically mounted next to the cooling fan on what will be the driver's side when it's installed in the 914. You'll need to move the engine bay A/C hoses over , and maybe get the fittings changed by a shop that specializes in A/C work.

It's possible that you could drive the compressor you have now. You'd need to fabricate brackets to attach it to the engine, and you'd need an A/C crank pulley for the engine (if it doesn't already have one). You MAY even be able to mount it on the passenger's side of the engine (the SC air pump normally mounts there), which would mean it would be positioned very close to the current location in the engine bay, so the rest of the plumbing wouldn't need as much work to adapt.

This will almost require you to retain the CIS injection system, too. Carbs would foul any reasonable mounting location for the compressor.

I dont know much about it, but I think I remember reading somewhere, that the compressor hits the firewall, and some had to be removed, or moved back...

The 911 compressor mounts can't be used in a 914 unless you put a big dent in the firewall to clear the compressor. But that will distort the backpad and limit the rearward travel of the driver's seat.


You need something like this:

Click to view attachment

I created this for my 914/6 conversion. It allows you to put the compressor in almost the same location as in the 4 cylinder cars, plus it makes changing the belt extremely easy. No more fooling with the shims behind the fan pulley.

Awsome! Now I can put AC in my car. Where did you get the belt?? Custom made?

The compressor mount is custom made. The belt is an off the shelf item at FLAPS. The pulleys come from Clewett engineering. The idlers and the compressor come from IceAc. The tensioner is a timing belt tensioner for a Nissan 300ZX motor.


I added a vertical bracket to the Rich Johnson nosecone mount and installed the idler pulleys. The compressor mount sits over the valve cover, and 2 tall spacer nuts replace the valve cover nuts.

I am going to make a second version that uses aluminum, and a automatic tensioner.

But this version is on my car and running.

When I first got it running, I had a problem with pulley alignment, and it ate a belt. I changed the belt in a parking lot in a business suit and tie, in less than 10 minutes, without getting anything but my fingers dirty. The only tool I used was a 13mm wrench to loosen the tensioner. Try that on a standard 914/6 belt setup.

The only bitch I have with it is that you have to pull the compressor to change the #1 spark plug. I am going to rework that in the second version.

More picts...

Pulleys close up:
Click to view attachment

Compressor and Tensioner close up:
Click to view attachment


Rear of the compressor mount:
Click to view attachment

I later drilled a hole in the bracket above the spark plug. The bracket pushed on the plug wire and damaged the top of it.

Thanks James & Clay,

Clay - excellent little engineering job there. Its great to see something that's designed to worked from those who have to use it. I hope you'd be willing to make the plans for such bracket available at a reasonable cost, or better yet manufacture & sale them.

Keep us posted, and I'll be getting back with you when I get to that point.

Regards,

Awsome!! So I am assuming the tensioner is not adjustable?? If I am using a stock 914-6 engine mount, do you have any idea how I would mount the pulleys??

BTW, how much stress does the compressor put on the valve cover studs??

Clay, that is absolutely awesome. If I needed A/C here (it maybe hits 90dF about 3 times a year), that's how I'd do it.

clay can you post so pics of the cooling coil and its mounting as well??

The tensioner is adjustable. The 300ZX timing belt tensioner has an off center hole and a 6mm hex head hole in it. Just loosen the nut and turn it with a 6mm allen wrench. But I have found that by doing that, you can get the belt too tight. It's better to just turn the tensioner with your hand and tighten up the nut.



Almost none. Everyone who has seen it loves the idea. The only down side is you have to put in 8mm studs in place of the 6mm ones that go through the timing cover.

Hey Clay,

Any further plans for a V2? I've a got a 3.2 that needs to go in over the winter. It would be great to do this up while the motor's out .

Actually, no. I have been working on a new motor and getting the evaporator setup in the car.

Picts to follow for that one.



I have no problem with you duplicating what you see in the pictures.

Thanks - I wish... No welding skills.

welding skills= 5 hours internet research on proper "MIG" welding technique, 4 hours practice on scrap, and 3 hours part fabrication with good quality borrowed MIG welder.

That bracket looks pretty substantial though... 110V welder might not cut it? Might need 230V power supply? Any thoughts from the more experienced out there?

Hell, my 110 welds up to 1/4 no sweat...you are good with one. I did my whole car with a 110 including roll cage

Josh

I welded it up with a 110v MIG.

Click to view attachmentHere's a six with the a/c in the oe 911 location.
Note the small circular depression formed in the bulkhead, which allows for clearence. There was not much protruding into the cabin.
Marty

I wonder how much bulkhead modification would need to be done without that double pulley on the compressor. Looks like a big ole York.

I have a nice Sanden - just need a way to mount it.