Ok...so here is how the passenger side cooling line will be run.

From the Radiator

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Through the heater hole

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Into the long

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And into the engine compartment...boy is it dirty back there.

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Finished welding in the passenger Engman reinforcement...put a few extra welds in for good measure and because I was enjoying welding.

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Cleaned up the driver's side. No surprises here!!

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Mmmm....if you live in the Michigan area and have access to Bell's beer, I highly recommend finding some HopSlam. It does not get any better than this.

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I have not posted an update for a while but not because of the lack of effort or progress, just have not been doing anything that a dozen other people have not already posted a more novel or skillful implementation. So here are the end results...

Finished welding in the Engman reinforcement kit.

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After a load of grinding.

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Finished repairing the pedal area.

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....

Installed the driver side cooling line support. Had to cut open the long to get it in.

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Welded back up.

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Worked on the engine plumbing a bit. Cleaned up the crank case vent hoses and rerouted the turbo cooling lines.

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I have been spending hours practicing Tig welding Al. It is as challenging as everybody told me it would be. I am making strong welds but not quite as nice looking as I want considering the high profile locations I need to weld on the intercooler and the radiator. This is my creation from this weekend.

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I am working on the new oil lines to the turbo and remote oil filter now. And the filter to intake plumbing, and the wiring harness and...

Scott

Made bit more progress today. Made another mount for the fuel lines and a cover for the access hole into the center tunnel.

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I think that next to the tig welder, nutserts are my second favorite tool. No more sheet metal screws for me!!

Scott

What tool did you buy and where did you get it to use the nutserts?

This is my nutsert tool

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Nutserts for the plate and fuel line mount

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Another fuel line mount using a nutsert.

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All of the fuel pump and filter brackets use nuserts. I started installing nutserts for the rear valance and will use them for the front valance as well.

Finally, the fuel lines are in for good.

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I also reinstalled the passenger side door today. I finally appreciated the value of the chassis braces. The door opening was a bit tight and uneven before all of the work on the passenger side. I cranked open the gap until it met the measurements in the manual before welding in the new metal. I was able to remove the shim from the lower hinge which helped the gap at the front of the door. The gap at the back is more even now.

It feels really good to be installing things permanently.

Scott

So where did you buy that handy tool. Looks like a great tool to have.

Nice work.

Picked it up at Grainger:

Edit:deleted bad link

Scott

Thanks... Just ordered one.

A couple important things happened today.

I finally have the oil feed line for the turbo. Seems like it would not be such a big deal but the one end was female M12x1.0 and getting to it w/o a load of adapters was a major afare. Eventually I found a shop 4 miles away from my house to make one for me.

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Temporarily installed

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After a panicked search I have a matching seat to the Momo Start seat that I bought at the beginning of the project over 2 years ago. Momo has made 2 revisions since then and the old style was no longer available. I picked up the seat on the right from somebody who bought it a while ago and never used it! It just arrived today

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The Puss has made the first seat his.

Scott

Look how excited he is! That new seat's made him think he's getting a new little sister....

Are you going to install flares on your car? What size wheels/tires do you intend to run under all that torque?

Thanks,
Nate

205's...maybe 215's on 2.0 Fuchs, this is my trans preservation plan. I have a set of 7x15 phone dials for when I put in the 5 lug parts. Eventually I would like to do a Sheridan body so that it can have some proper rubber. Until then its nickname will be "The Smoke Machine".

Scott

My car has the 03 WRX engine with 295/35 Toyo Proxes on 18"x11" s and it will still light 'em up. When you start hard on one of these and get the tires spinning it's almost instant red-line banging off the rev-limiter. Hope you got a good tranny. Already broke one. It's a blast.

Ed aka W9R1
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The 901 in the car is solid with a recent refresh. I just need to remind myself to be mindful when in 1st.

I made some progress this weekend.

Mounted the air filter, actually a one of my buddies came over and did this so that I could work on other things:

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Made the tube from the turbo to the air filter silicone piece. This is the first "real" aluminum part that I welded. Notice the fairly tidy practice weld in the background. Now notice how not tidy the weld is on the part. Welding a odd shape with varying wall thickness and not perfect gaps is considerably more challenging then welding straight test tube. Oh well, not bad for my first part. It is strong and leak free. Hopefully I get better as the parts become more visible.

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Fits perfectly!!

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I also started plumbing the remote oil filter. I need to drill another hole in the engine mount for the remote filter housing but can't until I get the engine off of the cart. Eventually it will be straight.

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Scott

Well, still not confident enough to weld the tubes to the intercooler yet so I spent much of the garage time this weekend making practice art.

This is a creation made of 3" diameter .065 aluminum tubing, the same stuff as the IC plumbing...almost ready to weld the real thing

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Scott

Made another small step tonight. I finally removed the turbo oil return on the head. I could not find any good information on the Subaru sites to I slowly worked it loose with gradually larger tools.

This is what I wanted out:

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This is what it looks like out:

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The damn thing was press fit in with a ring of glue for good measure:

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I feel fortunate to get it out without damaging anything. Now I get to modify it and put it back together so that it points toward the new turbo location.

Welded up the turbo drain tonight.

Pre-welding:
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Post welding...steel is so much easier than AL!

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Head side post welding:

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Installed minus tube:

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Good night........

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Scott

Looking good Scott!

I may use some of your ideas if my turbo oil drain is a bit off optimum angle.

Now I want to see your shift linkage solutions! Especially with the Small Car mount.

Jeff

Jeff,
Hopefully you do not have to remove the drain...what a huge pain in the ass.

As for the shift linkage, stock works just fine!

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I had to dig through a load of old project pictures to find these. It reminded me how far I have come and renewed my sense of accomplishment. Makes the the first drive seem not so far off

Scott

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Ahhhhh what a beautiful sight.....Makes you feel good don't it?

Great work...Ed aka W9R1

Rats,
That stock shift rod does fit nice! No such luck on my build - I've got frame and suspension members in-line with the shift rod - almost as if they'd been designed to be in the way!

I've noticed other cooling line connections seemed to be "press fit" into the various engine components too - such as the little lines on the throttle body heater, the cockpit heater supply connection into the water crossover on top of the engine. How are you planning to seal that turbo drain back up? Locktite?

I may have to do someting similar to the turbo drain fittings? Haven't yet permanantly located the turbo - but the block connection "may" be OK. Still looking for a bolt-on NPT (or similar) adapter for the turbo drain - but may have to make something custom like yours. Not much room for pipe fittings under there - especially in the large sizes required for a good drain.
Car is lookig great Scott!
Jeff

wow - awesome work - suby sterring column - sweet.

i love the friendly one ups-man-ship on this board - just when you think you've seen the most amazing work - someone else raises the bar.

for me - i am pretty proud for weeks - when i install a set of chrome caps on my wheels valve stems - but you guys - wtf!

I have not figured out what I will use to seal the oil return. I thought about Loctite but am concerned that it would never come apart again. The oil return is not pressurized so I may just put some high temp RTV type sealant there.

Do you have an update progress thread of your project anywhere? The yahoo link you sent a while ago is down.




Not so much one ups-man-ship...just the advantage of knowing how other people have done things so that you can see what worked and what did not.

Made some small progress yesterday. Mounted the crank case breather tube and boost control solenoid. Both are held in place with nutserts!

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Probably will not have any updates for a couple of weeks. I am getting married next weekend and the Woodward Dream Cruise is the weekend following that.

Scott

Scott,
Congrats ahead of time for next weekend!

The car and workmanship is awesome as usual!

Cheers to you and the MRS.

Made it through the wedding!! Everything went well and nobody died on the hike in the mountains, ropes course, rafting trip or any of the late nights out

My beautiful bride and I, freshly married!!

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Driving to the reception the '39 Rolls Royce

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Celebrating with a nice Cab and a Cohiba. The Cohiba is from Cuba thanks to my brother in law from London. And my custom matte finish tungsten carbide ring.

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Now back working on the PorSTi...

Filled in one of the heater control tube holes.

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Removed a load of paint from the driver's compartment.

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Welded in reinforcements for the shoulder Harness'.

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Picked up a welding table and a spot welder.

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Scott

Cool.. you got hitched in Fort Collins?

Of course, where else??? My wife got her undergrad at Colorado State. I had never visited Colorado before meeting her...now I can't spend enough time there. Great State, great beer!!

Finally, enough free time for an update. I have been overly busy the past few weeks with events away from the house but have still managed to find time to work on the project...actually took Thursday off from work to spend in the garage gussying up the PorSTi for the party that I had yesterday. The goal is to get everything painted and the engine in for the final time. Several things needed to be done to meet this goal...

First on the to do list was to clean up all of the repairs around the longs and engine compartment so that I could seal them with Por15. While working away with the wire brush I found some more rust hiding under bondo/seam sealer.

Time to

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No more hole...still need to fix the other problem. Decided to put that off for a bit as it will not keep me from finishing the inside of the longs so that I can run the cooling lines.

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Next I needed to get the intercooler tubes and blow off valve tacked in place. First I had to convince myself that I could make pretty enough welds...several hours of practice later I think that I am ready.

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Make the holes for the BOV mounting plate...

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Attached without blowing any holes Still need to figure out how to get the BOV tube to run to the intake.

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...

Why not just let the BOV vent into the atmosphere? Would save you the trouble.

Ed aka W9R1

...Next is to get the car out of the garage and give it a good cleaning to get rid 2 years of restoration residue. It has been a long time since it has seen natural light!!

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After a good cleaning I installed the front shift rod and pulled the Gates tube through the longs. I somehow did not take any pictures of the cooling lines. Will get some next time I am in the garage. Time to get ready...

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Stick it in there

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Looks a little tight around the turbo intake tube.

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Maybe there is some room on the other side.

...

...Nope. Going to have to remove the tube. One of the goals for the project was to be able to get the engine in/out without having to take any parts off of the engine. I guess taking one part off is not soo bad

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Still Fits

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Next on the to-do list is to finish painting the passenger compartment. A few more hours with the wire brush.

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And a few more with the paint brush. Por15 is great stuff.

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Ready for the party

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Venting to the atmosphere will alter MAF calulation a bit and could cause some, likely small, drivability issues with a stock ECU. Although...it could lead to off throttle tailpipe flames Maybe I will reconsider.

Scott

It will run way rich without the air going back into the intake after the maf. You can switch to speed density though.

Doesn't bother mine, with a stock ECU.

Ed aka W9R1
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2030710190...CLB?vhost=rides

"After a good cleaning I installed the front shift rod and pulled the Gates tube through the longs. I somehow did not take any pictures of the cooling lines. Will get some next time I am in the garage. Time to get ready..."

Few inquiries........
What size gates tubing did you use, its rating (temp/pressure) and supplier.
How did you shove it through the longs? Mine seems to get hung up about a foot in when shoved in from the engine compartment. I suspect its getting tangled in the tube insulation.
Are you going to exit the longs on the front vertically of horizontally?

Thanks, Wilhelm

Ed,
Ya, I am sure that it would be ok for me as well...I have it pretty much set up for recirc already so I am just going to finish it off.


Wilhelm,
I am using Gates 75w 1.5 and 1.75. The spec's are at the link. I purchased it through a local branch of Motion Industries.

If you look a few pages back there are some pictures of the full coolant plumbing. I replaced the heater mufflers (or whatever they are called) in the longs with aluminum tubes to avoid the hangups that you are having. The 1.5 pushed right through. It took a rope and a a little lube to pull the 1.75 through the bend.

Scott

Wow clean pans nice!

Made some progress today. I pulled out the engine mount so that I could make the second hole for the remote oil filter. I also plumbed the driver's side cooling line. The shift rod is pretty darn close to the oil filter. I think that the rubber cover might rub a bit. Will have to keep an eye on it.

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While working down there I was reminded of one of the critical points when mounting the Suby engine the way that I am. The hump for the shift rod hole is very close to the driver's side coolant housing when the engine is mounted close to horizontal. In the picture below you can see that the hump is actually pinching the silicone adapter a bit.

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Scott

Scott you could make a new thermostat housing and go to the 1.75 od size aluminium tube and run the housing tube out past the hump and put the hose on it out there.

Thanks for the hose links! Looking at your pic of the 1.75" hose entering the air tube in the long, I am amazed you got that giant hose through there. Curious as to why you use such big coolant lines? It seems a lot of the V8 guys are running 1.25" to the radiator and back.

The floor cleaning with wire wheel seems quite meticulous. I tried this approach and got tired of getting wacked by bristles flying out of the wheel or nearly losing skin ever time I would catch an edge with wheel nearly ripping the grinder out of my hands. I ended up sandblasting which certainly has it downsides.

Your doing a great job.

The clearance really is not an issue, just something to keep in mind if doing a swap similar to this.



The stock Suby lines are 1.5" and I arbitrary matched the return line to the radiator that I purchased. Did not want to take any chances with cooling issues. A boosted 4 banger can get pretty hot.

I sand blasted part of the engine compartment. Afterwords when I was digging around fixing the longs, I found a lot of sand. I really enjoy sand blasting and will continue to do it but not for anything where the sand has a place to become trapped. Although picking wire slivers is not so much fun either.

Time to get back to the garage.

Scott

Worked on the cooling system a bit yesterday. I did not like how the elbows were unsupported coming out of the longs so I took them back out and made some tabs.

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Installed:

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Really Installed

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Passenger side, partially installed

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I also installed the oil pan pickup yesterday. The project parts bins are starting to empty out

Scott

I'm anxious for you. I can't wait for you to post driving impresions.

Sorry for the lack of updates lately. PorSTi has a new home that I hope to get up and running over the holiday. See details here:

Relocation Thread
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Should be making progress again soon.

Scott

Finally, home enough to get things settled inside the house so that I could organize the garage. The Suby still has to live outside but there is plenty of room to work on the PorSTi:

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The breezeway is considered part of the garage

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First task to complete was to get some measurements that malaga_red75 has been wanting for quite some time:

The distance from the bottom of the engine to the bottom of the engine mount/top of the cross bar is 70mm. You can see where I took the measurement in this picture:

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The distance from the engine to the vertical plane of the angle iron is 9mm. The bottom of the angle iron is 2 inches wide and the cross bar sits almost flush with the front edge. You can see where I took the measurement in this picture:

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I also removed the passenger side seat mounts so that I can install the new seats.

Finally back to work.

Scott

Scott,
First, thanks so much for getting these to me. I am still a little confused though. Does the bottom piece of the cross bar sit flush with the original bottom of the engine mount, or does it sit flush with the notches you made? Thanks.

-Peter

The cross bar sits flush with the notches. Here are a few pictures to clarify. The notch on the top is a mistake. The bottom notch on the passenger side has been made flush since these pictures.

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Let me know if you need any more details.

Scott