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Amenson
Finally took the time to grab the photos from the last couple of weeks of work before HRPT.

One project that turned out to be a much larger PITA than expected was installing the ProVent recirculating crank case air oil separator.

Looks pretty straight forward...
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Look at the bend I had to make to avoid the alternator.
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Do you think that anybody in the world makes a fitting that will fit there? Nope, had to cut apart two different fittings and weld them together to get what I needed.
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This is a poor attempt to show the plumbing from the block. A tube connects the center block vent to the valve cover vent on each side of the engine and to the bottom of the ProVent.
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After the ProVent does its job I dump the oil back to the pan through the dipstick tube.
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I probably have the most custom Subaru Dipstick tube in the entire world.
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I also extended the bottom of the tube because I shortened the inlet to the oil pan so that I could remove it with the front engine mount in place. Smallest weld bead on the car!
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Also learned how to Tig Braze in order to reinstall the shortened oil pan tube.
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While I had the pan off I installed a Killer B windage tray
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Phew...that was a project and a half.

Cheers,
Scott
914forme
I used to run the Pro-Vents on my TDIs, never got them to work as well as I wood have liked. But they certainly reduced the oil in the intercooler that plagued the A4 TDIs.

Haven't even looked at my new TDI to see if it has the same issue dry.gif

You know Scott your pictures make it look so easy, we never feel the pain of all the hard work you put into that car. As always you do top notch work.
Amenson
I also decided that I needed to rework the shift linkage. I am sure that it works completely fine the way it was but...

This is a picture of CaptTripps install. Notice the small ends on the rotation link.
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My kit came with normal sized ends and a spacer mount stud thingy. When I mounted it on the inside the angle was less than 90deg.
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When I mounted it on the outside the angle was larger than 90deg. Also notice the in/out cable is almost at the extreme operating angle to the top and outside of the vehicle. It seemed to slightly bind when at the retracted position.
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What I did was shorten the arm by 4-5mm and added an extension so that I can run it upside down to the above pictures.
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This is what it looks like installed.
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The hours of fiddling were so worth it confused24.gif Probably not but it makes me feel much better.

Cheers,
Scott
Amenson
QUOTE(914forme @ Jun 27 2015, 05:50 AM) *

I used to run the Pro-Vents on my TDIs, never got them to work as well as I wood have liked. But they certainly reduced the oil in the intercooler that plagued the A4 TDIs.

Haven't even looked at my new TDI to see if it has the same issue dry.gif

You know Scott your pictures make it look so easy, we never feel the pain of all the hard work you put into that car. As always you do top notch work.


So far it seems to be working great. I had the IC tubes off after 1600 miles and everything was dry. Previously there was so much oil it was pooling a bit in the intake. The engine has not used any oil yet either. I am quite satisfied.

The pictures I post make it look easy because I neglect to take pictures of all of the failures. biggrin.gif

Cheers,
Scott
914forme
Not failure learning how not to do something invaluable to knowledge building.
zipedadoo
Wondering if you could give me some advise with my linkage. Obviously its a homemade version based on the one you're using.

It shifts ok but, when shifting from first to second the gear shift lever wants to move to the right a little so its not a straight pull back. Kind of feels like you're going to go into fourth gear.

I guessing my geometry is off on the "L" bracket.

Why did you rework yours? did you have the same issue?

Thanks for any advise you might have.Click to view attachment Click to view attachment
Amenson
QUOTE(zipedadoo @ Jun 27 2015, 04:56 PM) *

Wondering if you could give me some advise with my linkage. Obviously its a homemade version based on the one you're using.

It shifts ok but, when shifting from first to second the gear shift lever wants to move to the right a little so its not a straight pull back. Kind of feels like you're going to go into fourth gear.

I guessing my geometry is off on the "L" bracket.

Why did you rework yours? did you have the same issue?

Thanks for any advise you might have.


I reworked mine before even installing the shifter so I am not sure if what I did made a difference or not. In principal what I wanted to achieve was to keep the linkage components parallel and perpendicular when in neutral. This would make any linear displacement due to the rotational movement symmetrical and as small as possible.

I made an illustration to show the point. The bottom of the "L" is parallel to the input shaft, both shown with red lines. The linkage between the two (blue line) should be perpendicular to both.
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I currently have a very small amount of side to side motion when shifting between 1st and 2nd. Not measurable but I can feel it. Would be nice if I could not rolleyes.gif

Looking at it in this picture it seems like I have an adjustment to make, or maybe it is the angle of the picture.

Keep tweaking until it is perfect!

Cheers,
Scott
zipedadoo
Thanks for the reply. I'll make some adjustments and see what happens.
ruby914
QUOTE(Amenson @ Jul 1 2015, 10:13 AM) *

QUOTE(zipedadoo @ Jun 27 2015, 04:56 PM) *

Wondering if you could give me some advise with my linkage. Obviously its a homemade version based on the one you're using.

It shifts ok but, when shifting from first to second the gear shift lever wants to move to the right a little so its not a straight pull back. Kind of feels like you're going to go into fourth gear.

I guessing my geometry is off on the "L" bracket.

Why did you rework yours? did you have the same issue?

Thanks for any advise you might have.


I reworked mine before even installing the shifter so I am not sure if what I did made a difference or not. In principal what I wanted to achieve was to keep the linkage components parallel and perpendicular when in neutral. This would make any linear displacement due to the rotational movement symmetrical and as small as possible.

I made an illustration to show the point. The bottom of the "L" is parallel to the input shaft, both shown with red lines. The linkage between the two (blue line) should be perpendicular to both.
Click to view attachment

I currently have a very small amount of side to side motion when shifting between 1st and 2nd. Not measurable but I can feel it. Would be nice if I could not rolleyes.gif

Looking at it in this picture it seems like I have an adjustment to make, or maybe it is the angle of the picture.

Keep tweaking until it is perfect!

Cheers,
Scott

Scott and Zipedadoo,
I did my own linkage. At first, I didn't feel a big improvement from the 901. (bad)
I never had a problem with the lever moving from side to side as I moved from 1st to 2nd. The way I did my linkage the pusher is aligned as close to the trans shaft as possible so it has little influence on the rotating linkage and visa-verse. Yours is different. My rotating linkage is farther out from the shaft. The drop link limits what you would feel from the push pull influencing movement on the bell crank.
My problem was in the side to side shifter movement maxing out, not moving the rear linkage enough to clearly get into gear. The way I fixed that was to move the cable end pivot point on the vertical (long leg) of the bell crank down. New location not shown in this photo.
This gave me more leverage and it feels much better. I have moved my pivot point up and down the shift lever so yours will be different. You have some extra holes in the bell crank, give them a try. I also made an adjustable gate for the shifter so I don't push or pull too far in order to find 1st, 2nd, 5th & R. It works great now.
Amenson
I had a request to update the thread and I am just sitting in the Phoenix airport waiting for my connection to Reno on my way to Squaw Valley so why not.

Porsti spent the summer on daily driver duty. Only problem was a the rear IC mount kept cracking.
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It is currently resting through the winter sharing the garage with its half sister that made it's way back after being in storage in WI for 13 years.

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I have a list of to-dos that I will start in a few weeks.

Cheers
Scott
Amenson
After spending most of the winter wiring, plumbing, insulating, vapor barriering, and metal ceilinging it is time to actually work on the car. It is so nice to have a garage that can be heated to high 50's with the heater only running sporadically.

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Part of the push to finish the ceiling was my 40th birthday party. We normally have a Chili Cook-off party around my birthday but with this year being a bit special my wife organized some birthday activities also. We had almost 50 people at the house! Super awesome cake.

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One thing lead to another and a birthday burnout happened.

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On with progress. Finding the ideal routing of the wiring harness has been a ongoing irritation. I had run the rear part of the harness through a hole between the seats and it always bothered me. I figured out a way that I could reroute the wires through the center tunnel. There was also a bundle of wires going to the engine that were too long but I could never find the correct terminals to the ecu plugs to shorten them.

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I found them. After about 5 hours sitting in the passenger foot-well the hernia of wires is gone.

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Extras...and it still runs!

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Tomorrow I need to re-wrap the entire back half of the harness.

Cheers,
Scott
914forme
sad.gif Sorry I missed the epic burnout, seriously bummed.

Garage looks great, being semi warm makes a huge difference.

914forme
Stopped by Scott's place on my way to Hersey. I had a decent time at Hersey, I had a great time with Scott. We have a 2014 Subaru STI in our stables. That car is fast, Scott's PORSTI is faster if he can keep it hooked up. Amazing what a difference a couple thousand pounds and no AWD makes to a car. happy11.gif This car is driven, it is raw, and a blast, and the workmanship is so nice.

Thank you for the ride, hope you enjoy the refreshments. Maybe next year at Hersey we both can be in attendance with some serious Subaru powered 914s.
Amenson
I have had a nagging leak from the fabricated top of the coolant expansion tank. The weld neck just did not seem to work well with the stock cap. I cut it off and installed a standard size neck and cap. I managed to leave a pinhole when installing the new neck. No problem, pull off the cover and fix the weld. After coming apart so many times the big o-ring in the stock expansion tank tore. A quick trip to the Subaru dealership revealed that the seal is no longer available.

Time for another solution. I searched online and found two fabricated expansion tanks. The Mishimoto looked like the cap might just be in the correct location so I ordered one.

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Nope filler neck was in the way. Surgically removed the filler neck and extra barb and installed another standard size neck. Oh, and added a bottom mount like the stock tank. No idea why Mishimoto decided that it was not necessary. Much more solid with it.

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It fits and is leak free!

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Next project is to make a new rear IC mount. Then pull the passenger trailing arm to confirm that it is bent. Anybody have a spare trailing arm that they want out of the garage?

Cheers,
Scott
914forme
Maybe, I have an e-mail out for you
Amenson
Getting ready to post about converting to 911 park brake and new rear calipers when I realized that I never posted one of my favorite parts on the car.

I probably complained several times about my IC mount cracking. I have fixed it 3-4 times and finally got fed up. Time to make a proper tubular mount. I purchased a really nice tube notcher for when I build a cage and figured that it would make quick work of all of the tube for the IC mount...nope, tube is too small. Had to resort to the band saw and hand file. Good welding starts with good fitup sawzall-smiley.gif Many hours later and it is finished.

Out with the old...
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Purty
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I was very careful tacking it before welding to avoid pulling it out of position and it worked. The thing drops right into place and all 4 bolts go in with out even needing a wiggle.

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Took hours to make but man am I pleased with it.

On with the current project...
Amenson
Stephen ended up hooking me up with his old trailing arms, calipers and rotors..including the Elephant Bushings beerchug.gif . I picked up an "early 70's" 911 drum brake setup and Tangerine conversion cable. Time to starting grinding and welding.

I have always been a little slow when laying down tig welds in odd positions which result in solid but slightly hot welds that grey a bit when cooling. Made a conscious effort to keep up the pace this time and the welds are nice and shiny. If I was better with the camera a little bit of color in the welds would show...boo-ya.

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The park brake setup is not quite early enough so it is the big bearing setup that requires slotting the holes to make it fit. I also noticed when I put the rotor in place the pads are not completely up in the rotor. I noticed in pictures using the proper park brake parts there is a decent size gap between the caliper ear and the park brake. Not so much here.
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I know it probably does not matter but I am thinking about spacing the park brake to get it deeper into the rotor. I have tangerine bearing retainers that are 3/16" thick...almost perfect thickness if I fit it under the park brake. Has anybody tried this?

I could not figure out how to support the parts for painting, much too heavy to hold and spray. While thinking about the quickest way to fab up a rack I noticed the engine hoist hiding in the corner. Perfect!!

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I was in too much of a hurry to get over to the neighbors house for a beer so i forgot to take a post painting picture but man does a fresh coat of matte black make everything look better. Should have them installed later this week.

Cheers,
Scott
914forme
Sounds like a plan to me. It should work. The other idea I ha was mount it up at a 90 and section it and weld it back together. More practice for your TIG skills.

I puled the trigger on a TIG this weekend, as I think it will help out with body mods, keeping the heat down should allow me to not have to grind so much. I can also use EZ grind wire, and make it easier to hammer weld. My MIG does not like to feed the EZgrind well. Balls up in the feed, right infant of the rollers.

Looking good as usual.

Enjoy the beer3.gif
charliew
Scott as you know I've been following you from the start. I really like the power tour parts as I have always wanted to take a project on one but it will never happen for me. Life has caught up with me.

Once I had a good grasp of the 911 park brake set up as that was my intended setup. I have all the parts but that was as far as I got. There are several good 911/914 parking brake threads from a few years ago. If you don't like the way yours works try to find the thread here or on narp that uses 944 angle adjusters and I think I remember a 90* pivoting arm with a short straight rod connecting link to the 914 cable. My memory is not as good as the threads if you can find them.

I wonder if the ic shrinking and growing is not what breaks the mount?

914forme, have you put the little oilwick on the wire infront of the feedwheels on your welder? I have always used one but have not tried the soft wire as the local places don't stock it but if I ever get back on this I will order some as that always was my iintention to put the flares on if my tigging was not up to snuff.

Scott you are becoming very good on your welding I think.

I do wonder if your short dipstick tube will not leak at the oring as it looks like it is close to the oil level in the pan.

My son has had the mann provent for several years on his sti. We found that the original oring will grow a huge amount and will not go back in if you take it apart to clean it. It as you know is a diesel part and the oring needs to be a different one for some reason, they can be found as thats what we did, don't take it apart till you get one. That has been discussed a lot I think on nasioc. I know the provent does work very good but the longer the hoses are and the higher the provent is the better it works on the suby. Also we put the return below the oil level to try and keep the pressure in the return lower if I remember right. I'm 71 now so things get lost a little.

Also If you check your sti you will see the motor is up in the front but that may not be a big deal but might affect the oil supply in the pan.

I think you have done a very good job and the street testing have been very valuable. I really like the cable diagnosis on the motion and the changes to the arms for your Ian stuff and the discussion from both you and ruby914 in one place on this thread. A 5 spd fiero has a simple mech but it is backwards for the mid engine application I think, I remember.
Amenson
The upgrade is finished and while it took much longer than anticipated everyting about it is a resounding success. 911 Park Brake works perfectly and even has a shorter pull than stock so it clears my seat better. Pedal feel with the larger rear piston area is really nice. The Elephant bushings are actually noticable as the rear end sets much earlier during transition.

The post would not be complete without pic's so here we go...

Stephen provided his modified trailing arm brackets with the arms but I could not bring myself to use them because I did not make them, but I did basically copy them. I didn't relocate the pivot shaft hole and now after getting it back together wish that I had.
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I ended up installing the Tangerine bearing retainers under the park brake assembly.
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The lip needed to be ground off of the park brake to avoid hitting the Boxster hub.
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Everything together and no interference!
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I think that it goes in here.
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Every time I have the car on the lift I can not help but take a picture like this.
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Installed!
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You can see in this picture that the shoes are flush with the back side of the drum.
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Cheers,
Scott
mepstein
what is the reason for the modified trailing arm brackets?
Amenson
QUOTE(mepstein @ Jul 4 2016, 06:43 AM) *

what is the reason for the modified trailing arm brackets?


Primary reason is so that I can install a toe link to make adjustments easier.

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The rest of the welding is to reinforce the spot welds to stiffen it up a bit.

Cheers,
Scott
914forme
Looking good
Amenson
I had a pleasant surprise this week. One of my wife's co-workers bought a lift and she proposed that we should get one also. The ceiling half of the garage was designed to be high enough to stack most things I might buy but I was not actually planning to get one in the near term. I called up the lift company, negotiated a deal (much better than her co-workers shades.gif ) and it arrived Friday afternoon. Few hours assembling it on Saturday and....

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It will move to the stall with the C10 once I pick up some more hydraulic fluid so that I can raise it high enough. Now I just need to get the C10 on 4 wheels so I can park it on the lift and then I will have room to work on Grey Matter smash.gif sawzall-smiley.gif welder.gif smilie_pokal.gif
914forme
Need to notch that C10 frame, I think you need clearance them C10s are tall beasties. Would help a lot if it could sit down on putting grass levels shades.gif poke.gif poke.gif

Nice score on the lift, I was not expecting your wife to approve anything that put a couple tons up in the air. Figured that would set off all the safety alarms. I know my fingers distracted her. laugh.gif
914forme
You all are deprived of Tractor Supplies confused24.gif

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And Rural Kings, man that sucks, you can buy Hydraulic Oil buy the drum there. Looks like the small jugs for you, let me know if you can't find some locally.

Voss Brothers up in Powell should have what you need, as wold any hydraulic hose dealer, Parker store in your area.

Never bought the stuff, at a big box store before, Napa might be another place to get it in larger quantities. Of course the guys dealing in Cat or JD construction equipment will have it also, but you pay CAT and /JD markups for the yellow and green and gold bottles.
Amenson
QUOTE(914forme @ Jul 18 2016, 09:54 AM) *

Need to notch that C10 frame, I think you need clearance them C10s are tall beasties. Would help a lot if it could sit down on putting grass levels shades.gif poke.gif poke.gif

Nice score on the lift, I was not expecting your wife to approve anything that put a couple tons up in the air. Figured that would set off all the safety alarms. I know my fingers distracted her. laugh.gif


I already have a C-notch that will get it in the grass if I don't cut it for 2 weeks. slap.gif

She did already check out the warning labels and refuse to go for a test ride on the lift. She also confirmed a half dozen times if it should be bolted to the floor.

QUOTE(914forme @ Jul 18 2016, 10:05 AM) *

You all are deprived of Tractor Supplies confused24.gif

And Rural Kings, man that sucks, you can buy Hydraulic Oil buy the drum there. Looks like the small jugs for you, let me know if you can't find some locally.

Voss Brothers up in Powell should have what you need, as wold any hydraulic hose dealer, Parker store in your area.

Never bought the stuff, at a big box store before, Napa might be another place to get it in larger quantities. Of course the guys dealing in Cat or JD construction equipment will have it also, but you pay CAT and /JD markups for the yellow and green and gold bottles.

I get the fluid from a local Parker store. I also have some JD fluid on the shelf but did not want to mix.
914forme
QUOTE(Amenson @ Jul 18 2016, 10:45 AM) *


She did already check out the warning labels and refuse to go for a test ride on the lift. She also confirmed a half dozen times if it should be bolted to the floor.



rolleyes.gif I would have been disappointed if she hadn't read the labels, the manual, the anchor specs, then sent it off for verification.

Need to borrow my SDS drill to drop 16 holes into your floor? Epoxied set anchors are the way to go, unless your planning on moving it allot.
Amenson
QUOTE(914forme @ Jul 18 2016, 12:45 PM) *

QUOTE(Amenson @ Jul 18 2016, 10:45 AM) *


She did already check out the warning labels and refuse to go for a test ride on the lift. She also confirmed a half dozen times if it should be bolted to the floor.



rolleyes.gif I would have been disappointed if she hadn't read the labels, the manual, the anchor specs, then sent it off for verification.

Need to borrow my SDS drill to drop 16 holes into your floor? Epoxied set anchors are the way to go, unless your planning on moving it allot.


It will not be bolted o the floor. screwy.gif This breaks a primary design constraint of easy layout flexibility.
Chris H.
Ummm...I'll say what most of us are thinking. You made an EXCELLENT choice in your "better half" or got very lucky. Either way well done sir beerchug.gif .

I need one of those before winter idea.gif ...any chance you would PM me the pricing details? Don't want to impose.
charliew
nice lift, a guy can't have too many tools.

I like the toe link because it will keep the adj more secure with the added torque and bigger tire footprint.
Amenson
After much consternation and research I finally decided to bring the Porsti to a shop for an alignment. I found a local shop that specializes in "custom" cars and had a lift that I could get onto. I insisted on being present during the alignment, which was not a problem for the shop...all good.

I expected the toe to be way out in the rear as I had just eyeballed it after installing trailing arms, and it was. Also way out was the right rear camber, this is why I replaced the control arm in the first place. Great, maybe the chassis is tweaked. We put two spacers in and it gets better but only a couple of tenths of a degree per spacer but is still over a half of a degree off from the passenger side. Seems odd but that is what the fancy machine is saying so I tell him to leave it and will sort it out with my smart camber gauge when I get home. We adjust the toe which is way easy with the new links. Front is pretty much spot on so we just make a small toe correction to both sides to even out the steering wheel.

Mechanic has something come up with his daughter so he does not take the car for a test drive. Fine with me so I pay and leave. I take the long way back to he office to get some interstate miles to enjoy the arrow straight chassis. Not quite, the steering center is still off and the car pulls slightly to the right. I get home and pull out the smart camber guage. Passenger side rear is 1.4 ish degrees and driver is 2.1. Passenger front is basically zero with the driver front 1.3. WTF ar15.gif Gauge must be off so I check it on both sides of a couple of windows plus check it against two spirit levels and my digital angle cube. Reads +- 0.1. Check the floor with all of the tools and it is, for all practical purposes, level. Recheck the camber a few more times and get the same readings.

Next I take out the shims from the driver side (which I can do without messing up the toe due to the links first.gif) and the camber is 2.0. I have no fricken clue how the modern Hunter alignment machine could be wrong but it was. I guess that it is time to make a set of smart strings after all.

Other issue I am dealing with is a rattle that only occurs between 2.5k and 3kish rpm and only under load. I tried running it on the short lift with the wheels off the ground but could not get the rattle. I initially thought that it was the letters on the engine grill vibrating but after taping then gluing them down and replacing he rubberized speed nuts for the letters and the screen I pulled the engine cover off completely. Still there. Zip tie all of the loose wires and connectors, still there. Install he foam under the timing belt covers, still there. Re-tighten every bold accessible, still there. Install heat barrier on the aluminum exhaust support, still there. I resorted to banging on random things with a mallet and found that the flex joint in the exhaust with clank when hit just right. I loosened the exhaust and wedged some blocks to keep the exhaust from vibrating, still there. The next step is to pull the header and see if I can shave off whatever is making contact in the flex joint. Seems excessive but the noise is ruining my driving experience. Sometime I wish that I was not so particular.

Cheers,
Scott
Amenson
Europe is on summer vacation and Japan is on Obon so I figured it would be a good week to take a couple of days off to play in the garage and recharge. Looked at the to do list and decided alignment strings would be a good place to start.

Drew up a quick sketch and headed to the metal store. Unfortunately they did not have so much thin walled tube so I had to use 1/2 emt which is perfect...except for the galvanized coating which is not so much fun to breathe. The knotcher paid for itself on just this project alone. Perfect fitment makes for easy fun welding.

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I still need to find adjustable bumpers so that I can get rid of the block of wood and stack of spacers.
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I could not decide how to hold the string in place until I was using a tube cutter and noticed the nice grove it left in the tube before it cut though. Work perfect.
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Equal length strings and equal spacing makes parallel strings no matter what.

Did a quick alignment to fix the "pro" job and it is pretty nice. Still need to set the corner weights and it should be perfect.

Cheers,
Scott
914forme
beer.gif looks great
Amenson
I brought the car to the lab at my wife's work to check the corner weights. LF/RR was noticeably off. Cranked up the RF and it is spot on and drives like it.

Total weight: 2197 lbs with ~13 gal of gas.
Distribution: 53% Rear 47% Front

Cheers,
Scott
Amenson
I figured out my rattle....what it was exactly, I have no idea. I gave the engine bay a quick wipe down before going to Cars and Coffee and it just stopped. Pretty sure it was one of the engine connectors vibrating. I wiped under the connectors on both sides and positioned them a bit. I thought that I had zip tied them so they could not vibrate but maybe not.

With that solved and Okteenerfest coming up I though that I would take care of a tiny pinhole leak in the radiator from a rock hit. While visiting Doug to check out Grey Matter he donated the 1.5" green stripe hose to the project so while I have the cooling system dry to fix the radiator I might as well reroute the cooling lines.

Step one, pull the raidiator and all of the cooling lines except the one in the passenger long. Then pull the Fuel tank to get access to the front of the steering rack hump.

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Cooling lines will come out of the lower front of the longs and enter the steering rack hump channel here:
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And come out here:
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Then go under the fuel tank and enter the radiator from below instead of above. This requires removing and plugging and exiting connections and installing new ones. I will also end up remaking most of the elbows. Plenty of work to do.

While I was aligning the car with my new stings setup I noticed that I could get half of a degree more camber on one side than the other. It sort of bothered me and after looking at it for a while I decided that my upper bushings must be off somehow. I looked into replacement bushings and really liked the Elephant Sealed Monball units. While I was ordering those I decided that I might as well put the pollybronze bushings in the front suspension also. Jez, while apart it would be a great time to install new strut inserts so I ordered a set of Bilsteins. No big deal, plenty of time before Okteenerfest.

Thankfully Stephen was nice enough to stop over Sunday morning to give me a hand with the struts, bushings and top monoball mounts. He also brought over his tube beader set for the cooling lines elbows and a box of beer. What a guy beer.gif pray.gif

It is still going to be pretty tight to get it back together for Okteenerfest. I have a mini vacation this weekend then I leave for a week and a half business trip in Europe on the 12th where I just happen to end up in Munich for the opening weekend of Oktoberfest. I fly back the Tuesday or Wednesday before Okteenerfest. No problem, there will plenty of time for sleep when I am dead someday.

While I am thinking of Okteenerfest, it looks like I am going to have an empty seat for the Friday Drive. If anybody with a strong back and a complete disregard for their hearing wants to experience a suby powered 914, the seat is available. Preference will go to anybody building or thinking about building one. Bribes of beer or fine liquor go a long way too!

Cheers,
Scott
914forme
More than welcome, that was the easy thing to do, and while I was under your car, I started to think how I don't need a perfect 914 I need a driver driving.gif So got back did a couple of things and dove in on mine.

Enjoy the beer3.gif
Amenson
QUOTE(914forme @ Aug 30 2016, 08:11 PM) *

More than welcome, that was the easy thing to do, and while I was under your car, I started to think how I don't need a perfect 914 I need a driver driving.gif So got back did a couple of things and dove in on mine.

Enjoy the beer3.gif

I have over 10,000 miles on the conversion and I am just starting to get frustrated by the esthetics. barf.gif Driving is fun driving-girl.gif

Wife was having girl time tonight so I had big plans on the project, ufortunately did not make as much progress as hoped.

First problem was the Elepant Weather Sealed Monoballs for the strut tops. When Stefan and I first installed them I could not get the snap ring in. Figured once they were torqued down it would go...it does not. Both sides tightened to exactly the same place so I assumed that the mounts were not deranged. Called Elephant and they said that it was not known problem. On a whim I dug out a 911 camber plate cleaned it up, pulled the monoball out of the 914 and voila, fits great. Tightens past the snap ring groove with finger torque.
Click to view attachment

Apparently 911 and 914 camber plates are different enough that the monoball does not fit 914's properly. Talked to Elephant and they are going to get back to me with a proposal. I would like to just install the 911 camber plates and be done with it but I only have one good one. Anyone have a spare or two they want to sell?

The other issue I had was removing the 1.75" tube from the driver side long. Bloody hell, not sure how I got it in there but for a bit I did not think that it would come out. After much tugging to exhaustion, inch by inch it finally came out.

Back to progress, cleaned up the trunk side access hole.
Click to view attachment

Cut the hole into the long and test fit an elbow, looks pretty good.
Click to view attachment

Would look even better with the tube through the tunnel but it just would not go in. It will, just need to give it another try with a fresh mind and muscles.

Getting close to beader time, I can't wait!!!!

Cheers,
Scott
Amenson
Update on the Elephant Front strut monoballs. They agree that the parts do not fit the 914 camber plates properly and offered to refund the purchase or send me a pair of 911 plates. I really like the parts so I am having the 911 camber plates sent. I offered in return to send my 914 camber plates so they can adapt the parts to our cars. They agreed on the swap so maybe sometime in the future they will be compatible with our cars.

Cheers,
Scott
914forme
I have two I won't need s I am going with so rubber trick Tangerine parts. shades.gif

They are yours.


Good you resolved it. If not let me know offer still stands. beer.gif
Amenson
One step forward and two steps back today.

Great point is that I fished the tube through the tunnel. I buckled the mouth of the tube and taped it into a point. Add a bit of silicone spray and it went through pretty easily.

Bad news is that I was able to confirm just how little room I have behind the fuel tank to make the turn. It fits back there but not very well. Playing with the feasibility of pie cutting a 90deg bend to reduce the radius to make the fit a bit more comfortably.

Click to view attachment

It will work but is a lot more effort than I was planning to spend on the project.

Cheers,
Scott
mskala
QUOTE(Amenson @ Aug 31 2016, 02:07 PM) *

Update on the Elephant Front strut monoballs. They agree that the parts do not fit the 914 camber plates properly and offered to refund the purchase or send me a pair of 911 plates. I really like the parts so I am having the 911 camber plates sent. I offered in return to send my 914 camber plates so they can adapt the parts to our cars. They agreed on the swap so maybe sometime in the future they will be compatible with our cars.

Cheers,
Scott


I guess I found that out a couple years ago. I thought it was just me. A bit of
machining (on the nut I think) to get the damn thing to fit.
Amenson
Had a great evening in the garage. Project "don't mess up a cooling system that is already rock solid" is progressing nicely. I look forward to its completion and a dramatic lack of change in functionality headbang.gif

Passenger side routed over the steering rack hump.
Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment

Eventually it will run next to the fuel tank and into the top of the radiator.
Click to view attachment

I wanted to run it under the fuel tank but there just is not room. It will meet the requirement that it will be even or lower than the top of the radiator.

Driver side routed over the steering rack hump...
Click to view attachment

Behind...
Click to view attachment

and under fuel tank.

Click to view attachment

Entire suction side tube will be well below the majority of the volume of the radiator. This is the primary benefit of the project.

All that is remaining is to modify the radiator connections and fix the leak. I also need to install some low profile edge protection to keep the tube from chafing. Any suggestions?

Back on track to go Oktoberfest to Okteenerfest!!

Cheers,
Scott
Andyrew
Are you going to replace the bent/collapsed tube with steel? If not I recommend this..

I use another layer of tube to keep the tube from chafing. That and duct tape works surprisingly well in un-scene areas.


Have you test fit the gas tank in that area? Or is the silver tank you gas tank?
Amenson
QUOTE(Andyrew @ Sep 6 2016, 11:54 PM) *

Are you going to replace the bent/collapsed tube with steel? If not I recommend this..

I use another layer of tube to keep the tube from chafing. That and duct tape works surprisingly well in un-scene areas.


Have you test fit the gas tank in that area? Or is the silver tank you gas tank?


The tube is only lightly kinked. A bit of heat and pressure and it should pop out. The tubes I pulled out from the previous routing took a set with some pretty impressive permanent bends.

I ended up finding some really nice edge trim from Trim-lok. Comes in several sizes for different thicknesses of metal. Hopefully it is as bendable as advertised. Should look almost OEM!

Cheers,
Scott
76-914
QUOTE(Amenson @ Sep 6 2016, 08:18 PM) *

Had a great evening in the garage. Project "don't mess up a cooling system that is already rock solid" is progressing nicely. I look forward to its completion and a dramatic lack of change in functionality headbang.gif

Passenger side routed over the steering rack hump.
Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment

Eventually it will run next to the fuel tank and into the top of the radiator.
Click to view attachment

I wanted to run it under the fuel tank but there just is not room. It will meet the requirement that it will be even or lower than the top of the radiator.

Driver side routed over the steering rack hump...
Click to view attachment

Behind...
Click to view attachment

and under fuel tank.

Click to view attachment

Entire suction side tube will be well below the majority of the volume of the radiator. This is the primary benefit of the project.

All that is remaining is to modify the radiator connections and fix the leak. I also need to install some low profile edge protection to keep the tube from chafing. Any suggestions?

Back on track to go Oktoberfest to Okteenerfest!!

Cheers,
Scott

1st, I agree with Andrew on the bends. There are spiral spring wraps to prevent that. FWIW, each 90 elbow has the parasitic drag value = to 12ft of tubing! What is the reasoning behind elevating or lowering the radiator hoses in relation to the radiator? beerchug.gif Kent
Andyrew
QUOTE(Amenson @ Sep 7 2016, 06:28 AM) *

QUOTE(Andyrew @ Sep 6 2016, 11:54 PM) *

Are you going to replace the bent/collapsed tube with steel? If not I recommend this..

I use another layer of tube to keep the tube from chafing. That and duct tape works surprisingly well in un-scene areas.


Have you test fit the gas tank in that area? Or is the silver tank you gas tank?


The tube is only lightly kinked. A bit of heat and pressure and it should pop out. The tubes I pulled out from the previous routing took a set with some pretty impressive permanent bends.

I ended up finding some really nice edge trim from Trim-lok. Comes in several sizes for different thicknesses of metal. Hopefully it is as bendable as advertised. Should look almost OEM!

Cheers,
Scott


Radiator tubes dont work like that sad.gif I suggest making some steel pipes for that or else those tubes will collapse every time they cool down and possibly not expand after some use.
Andyrew
QUOTE(76-914 @ Sep 7 2016, 07:00 AM) *


FWIW, each 90 elbow has the parasitic drag value = to 12ft of tubing!


I believe this 100%. On my exhaust I have 3' straight pipe to a mandrel 90 (3" tube). The exhaust before the 90 barely gets warm, but the exhaust at the 90 is blueing. Note its stainless steel.

If anything your going to retain quite a bit of heat in those areas.

Im all for thinking outside the box, but whats really wrong with routing the hoses under the car? At this point you've done most of the work already but still.
Chris H.
Yeah just trying to help here so no offense at all. I really admire your fabrication skills, which far exceed mine, but those kinked hoses need to be fixed or you might have a flow problem as Andrew said. You can try squeezing the kinked area in the opposite direction several times and see if it will take on a more normal shape permanently. If not you need to change those out to slightly longer pieces so that they don't buckle like that or go with a 90 degree aluminum piece in the middle. I had the same problem because the thicker the hose the less pliable. Had to make more dramatic turns to get the kinks out. The hose needs to be shaped like an oval at LEAST, and not kinked or flattened at all. I went from 2 smaller hoses under the car with reducers and several connections to 2 larger hoses with no adapters or flow interruptors and the difference is crazy. It will BARELY get to 185 now. 2 pythons under the car.

Keep at it! The car is getting better and better! beerchug.gif
Amenson
QUOTE(Andyrew @ Sep 7 2016, 10:33 AM) *

QUOTE(Amenson @ Sep 7 2016, 06:28 AM) *


The tube is only lightly kinked. A bit of heat and pressure and it should pop out. The tubes I pulled out from the previous routing took a set with some pretty impressive permanent bends.

I ended up finding some really nice edge trim from Trim-lok. Comes in several sizes for different thicknesses of metal. Hopefully it is as bendable as advertised. Should look almost OEM!

Cheers,
Scott


Radiator tubes dont work like that sad.gif I suggest making some steel pipes for that or else those tubes will collapse every time they cool down and possibly not expand after some use.


Then how do you explain this?
Click to view attachment

I am fully prepared to fab up a nice section of aluminum tube for the areas if it does not go as planned but I really want to avoid hose clamped connections on a high temp, high pressure liquid in the cabin of the car.

Background for rerouting the lines:
-There are currently two hose clamped connections behind each speaker pod waiting to fail and kill me.
-Water pumps should have the "suction" side flooded so they do not actually have to suck. I am really surprised I have not had problems already. There must be enough water volume in the longs to keep the pump happy.
-Having the tubes as the highest point in the system makes it really hard to bleed.
-I did not like the way it looked.

Running the cooling lines under the car works perfectly well for many people but, in my not so humble opinion, is just a lazy way to do it that introduces unacceptable risk.

Cheers,
Scott
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