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Amenson
QUOTE(914forme @ Aug 19 2017, 09:25 AM) *

PM sent


Not sure how to post pictures in PM so I will add it here... blink.gif
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This is the section that we need. Between the headlights including the fogs and horns. Back as far as possible to the fuse box.

Cheers,
Scott
mepstein
If Stephen doesn't have it, I can pull it from my parts car.
914forme
You could have texted it to me confused24.gif
Amenson
QUOTE(914forme @ Aug 22 2017, 02:58 PM) *

You could have texted it to me confused24.gif

I could if I had your number in my new phone. After much enjoyment of my Bosch iPhone I finally dumped my personal Windows phone and got another iPhone. Unfortunately I have not found a way to transfer my contacts between the two platforms yet and I refuse to enter them manually.

...and I kind of wanted to post a before picture of the front harness. barf.gif
914forme
Easiest thing to do is use Outlook to transfer contacts from one to the other. Just need an e-mail system that will allow you to house contacts. You can use a trail version of office365. That will give you a month to get everything transferred. Or outlook.com

I'll look for the harness section and let you know. I need to get to your place anyway. I have a light unit to pickup, and dash parts for Grey to drop off.
theer
Oh yeah - that harness is for Grey Matter. Great to see the project stirring back to life!
Amenson
QUOTE(914forme @ Aug 22 2017, 08:32 PM) *

Easiest thing to do is use Outlook to transfer contacts from one to the other. Just need an e-mail system that will allow you to house contacts. You can use a trail version of office365. That will give you a month to get everything transferred. Or outlook.com

I'll look for the harness section and let you know. I need to get to your place anyway. I have a light unit to pickup, and dash parts for Grey to drop off.

Great recommendation for the contacts transfer.

I could visit your place as well but there does not seem to be much progress happening in your shop poke.gif rolleyes.gif
914forme
Nope this is the busy season at work, so I am trying heard cats and keeping everyone from ar15.gif for the next couple of weeks.

Lots of stuff going on behind the scenes even though nothing to show for it right now. But I hope to get back on the -6 in a week or so.
Amenson
Not much going on with the PorSTI lately, I have been focusing on getting Grey Matter together.

I did have a long awaited upgrade to the Cobb Accessport features released.

'05 Sti Flex Fuel
Flex fuel

Why do I want Flex fuel? 350 WHP and 403 WTQ!


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4yncQ3GjqmE?t=1m35s


The dyno plot in the video for Stage 2 match my dyno numbers very closely making the E85 numbers believable. There are claims of higher gains on stock turbo/pistons but I plan to keep PorSTI tuned on the conservative side to keep it mindlessly reliable.

The Flex fuel setup used the TGV inputs for the flex fuel and pressure sensor inputs making TGV delete necessary. I was thinking about TGV deletes but really don't like the 3 piece intake manifold so I did some research into "long runner" intake manifolds.

The 2.5i big plenum long runner manifold flows great and is cheap so I picked one up off eBay. I knew ahead of time that the TB mount is in a different location and probably would not fit my current setup. It won't so I found a JDM STI manifold which is long runner with the same TB position as my three piece manifold.

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Plan is was to use the JDM STI intake until I upgrade my turbo and build a rotated intake setup with air/water IC like Grey and then use the 2.5i intake.

I wanted to see how it would look installed so I threw it on Grey's engine...

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So much cleaner than the three piece manifold.

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Now I am thinking that it would be a waste to hide it under the IC on PorSTI.

Cheers,
Scott
charliew
that looks great using the stock turbo location. Just my rambling but if I was planning on a bigger turbo and using the awic and needing to build all new plumbing, you might consider putting the big turbo down in front with the awic above it and then the big plenum intake on. the big intake has a lot of good value, it increases low end torque and of course acts like a capacitor to level out the pressure as the motor uses it, I do like the cob as my son always had only two places to get e85. The only bad thing is all the expense of the bigger fuel lines and injectors and pump to flow the greater volume e85 requires.It took about 26/28 psi with a big turbo, on e85 to get to 500 awhp with his sti on a safe tune. that was on a 98 degree day after driving 90 miles to the dyno. that was with a front mount air ic that we tested with a temp gauge at the throttle body. I am anxious to see your compilation of parts as I have most of them except a big turbo and awic and the plumbing. I will never be able to tig that good I'm afraid.
914forme
Wow how stuff changed since Friday night. I like the Grey market part on Grey it is only fitting.

For PORSTI I agree with Charlie, as you love to weld, and make intricate cuts on your huge bandsaw.

Keep the long runner, put it on PORSTI, TB, then A2WIC in front of that, and then Turbo just off to one side, nice and short plumbing. The header could give you a bit of an issue with your motor mount moving it forward.

In reality do you really need more than what E85 will give you. confused24.gif It does make some very nice power, and your car all ready has issues with keeping the power to the ground. I don't think the larger meats out back are going to help you much. happy11.gif


charliew
I agree, also the tranny will work great until the rear traction gets too good. about 400ft lbs is the max on the 5 spd tranny with awd and the heavier wrx body. also a larger turbo takes up a lot of room but will make less heat at higher pressure and more volume.
Amenson
QUOTE(914forme @ Nov 13 2017, 12:50 PM) *


In reality do you really need more than what E85 will give you. confused24.gif It does make some very nice power, and your car all ready has issues with keeping the power to the ground. I don't think the larger meats out back are going to help you much. happy11.gif


...no, I probably don't need a bigger turbo, but that really is not the point.

Realistically, a bigger turbo is a ways off because with it comes new pistons, rods, clutch and probably gearbox upgrades.

More likely is that I build the AWIC setup with the current turbo.

Cheers,
Scott
charliew
Just info I just remembered. I have a flow bench and when we did my sons sti heads we added 1/2 mm larger valves because you can use the factory seats. he has cams that go to .410/.420 lift I think I remember and at full lift the intake ports flow about 300 cfm each after porting. that's why subys can make that much hp. a 350hp chevy can use 600/700 cfm total. Also he used the tgv's with stock ecm and tuning.
Amenson
Still not much going on with PorSTI, spending all of my garage time on Grey Matter.

I did get an extra set of hands in the garage but I won't let anyone else work on customer projects so I gave him my new center counsel to play with. I have had the bent blank in the garage for over a year, time to get it in.

Looks pretty good and the shifter is exactly where I want it.
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Took all of the guts from the MR2 shifter rotated them 180 to even out the cable attachment points and mounted them in the center console.

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Made a new shaft.

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Getting the cables up through the console will be quite involved so I will do that myself eventually.

Other than that just, accumulating parts so that I can hit it hard when it is on the working side of the shop again.
Amenson
With all of the time in the garage working on Grey I get to see PorSTI quite a bit and I have been thinking about what to do aesthetically with the car. I really like orange and am leaning toward Tangerine for the main color with black or dark grey brightwork. Also considering some modest graphics with a period racing feel. Primary candidate has been something on the rear upper corner of the front fenders. I really like the Heuer decal but don't have one in my modest watch collection...so I felt it would be a bit poserish. The pegasus is my second choice.

Not any more! I was browsing for random watches for sale and scored a late 60's Heuer stopwatch.

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The same one commonly mounted on the dashes of race cars. I have a dash mount on the way! Now I can do the Heuer decal.
Amenson
My yearly week of shenanigans with my car buddies is quickly approaching. I was working to get Grey on the road prior to getting back to my own project but endless details made that impossible. I proposed to Tom to take a few weeks to focus on Porsti and he graciously agreed for Grey to sit on the sidelines. pray.gif

On with progress.

My Father is again planning to join the trip this year as he was last year until rust and the sins of the PO resulted in the complete removal of the fenders. He is quite experienced with car projects and agreed to come down with my Mom to give me a head start on this year's push to drivability. Over 4 days we probably put in 50 hours of solid work, Mom even helped! The goal was to get the rear fenders bonded on but ended up just a bit short but took the opportunity while we had access to fix a few other issues.

Lots of smoothing of welds from previous repairs and the never ending removal of undercoating and paint.
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One of the unexpected repairs was a rusted out drivers side latch bracket.
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Would have been easy to order one from Restoration Design but no time for that so cut/weld.
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Still fits. You can also see several unneeded holes that we welded shut.
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The patch panels that I picked up for the project were really nice but had a couple of soft spots that needed to be repaired. Just a few angles here to sort out.
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Turned out pretty well.
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Panel fitted and a patch at the top of the door latch relief formed from flat. That took almost 2 hours! My Father asked if I was gong to make a career out of that piece.
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Two areas on the driver side need small patches along with complete replacement of the bottom. Part was make from a Restoration design panel and the rest formed from the bottom of another fender. Also cut out and repaired what was left of a rusted out jack pad. No pictures but it is slightly visible.
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Such an insane amount of work just to get solid medal to bond the fiberglass fenders to. I have another 4 day weekend scheduled for this weekend. Should be able to finish up the rear and get the fenders boned on. Front is next. Full steam ahead.
914forme
Great Progress
mepstein
QUOTE(Amenson @ Mar 14 2018, 05:59 PM) *

With all of the time in the garage working on Grey I get to see PorSTI quite a bit and I have been thinking about what to do aesthetically with the car. I really like orange and am leaning toward Tangerine for the main color with black or dark grey brightwork. Also considering some modest graphics with a period racing feel. Primary candidate has been something on the rear upper corner of the front fenders. I really like the Heuer decal but don't have one in my modest watch collection...so I felt it would be a bit poserish. The pegasus is my second choice.

Not any more! I was browsing for random watches for sale and scored a late 60's Heuer stopwatch.

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The same one commonly mounted on the dashes of race cars. I have a dash mount on the way! Now I can do the Heuer decal.

Im trying my best not to pick up the watch hobby but that’s a cool piece.
charliew
boy that damn foam really causes a lot of hours of work. that's where I found the first rust throughs on my 75 around the air vent. I'm afraid to dig around the rear corners.. At least you know it will last a lot longer in those areas this time around. Have you mentioned if you will leave the flex joint at the top rear of the front fenders? I guess your dad is going with you on the power tour?

I collect pocket watches mostly hunter style. I have a screw that is about 1/8 the size of a flea. It is so small I thought it was dirt in the envelope it was sent in. It is supposed to be a screw that holds a jewel in, in a very small 21j pendant type ladies watch. I just found a 1944 Waltham navigation watch in the box dated oct 44. It still has a cloth pouch on it in the box. Kinda different from my other watches but it is a Waltham 18 size. the paper tag on the outside shows the mil spec and it is also on the back of the watch. It came from philidelphia pa. but who knows how many folks have been caring for it over the years. It is one month younger than me but in perfect shape unlike me. I need to reglue the paper label back down on the box on it's corners but I'm worried I will screw it up.
Amenson
QUOTE(mepstein @ May 1 2018, 11:14 AM) *


Im trying my best not to pick up the watch hobby but that’s a cool piece.



I don't recommend getting into watches. Too many opportunities to distract your time/budget from other hobbies.


QUOTE(charliew @ May 1 2018, 12:10 PM) *


boy that damn foam really causes a lot of hours of work. that's where I found the first rust throughs on my 75 around the air vent. I'm afraid to dig around the rear corners.. At least you know it will last a lot longer in those areas this time around. Have you mentioned if you will leave the flex joint at the top rear of the front fenders? I guess your dad is going with you on the power tour?

I collect pocket watches mostly hunter style. I have a screw that is about 1/8 the size of a flea. It is so small I thought it was dirt in the envelope it was sent in. It is supposed to be a screw that holds a jewel in, in a very small 21j pendant type ladies watch. I just found a 1944 Waltham navigation watch in the box dated oct 44. It still has a cloth pouch on it in the box. Kinda different from my other watches but it is a Waltham 18 size. the paper tag on the outside shows the mil spec and it is also on the back of the watch. It came from philidelphia pa. but who knows how many folks have been caring for it over the years. It is one month younger than me but in perfect shape unlike me. I need to reglue the paper label back down on the box on it's corners but I'm worried I will screw it up.


I will keep the flex joint at the base of the a-pillar. My Dad will join me on power tour. He was already getting reacquainted with the seats and grabbed a cushion so that he could have my Mom make one that is a bit more plush.

Watch restoration is something that I will likely dive into when extensive garage time is no longer possible/practical.
BIGKAT_83
I hope to see you on the Power Tour this year. Finishing my Ac install now.

driving.gif
Bob
Amenson
QUOTE(BIGKAT_83 @ May 2 2018, 09:48 AM) *

I hope to see you on the Power Tour this year. Finishing my Ac install now.

driving.gif
Bob


Are you doing the entire route? What are you driving?

Let's plan on it.
BIGKAT_83
Working hard to get my Pro Tour Camaro done. But it looks like it will be the 914.
Plan to do the whole thing. After you leave Atlanta you will come 20 miles from my house.

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Amenson
QUOTE(BIGKAT_83 @ May 3 2018, 01:44 PM) *

Working hard to get my Pro Tour Camaro done. But it looks like it will be the 914.
Plan to do the whole thing. After you leave Atlanta you will come 20 miles from my house.



It would be cool to see the Camaro but your Teener will at least make the right noises for the event. I'll check back in closer to the event and set up to meet.

I started ordering parts and the first thing in were the AIG TGV deletes. These are top feed to get better injector options than the STI side feed configuration. I was going to modify a pair of stock WRX units I picked up for cheep but the amount of effort to make them decent just does not make sense when you can get a set of these for $260 delivered including gaskets and fasteners. I couldn't help but dig out the new fuel rails and ID1050x injectors. Bling!
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On to some real work...fitting the fenders. I had forgotten how crappy it was working with fiberglass and went glove and sleeveless. So itchy and prickly.
Fitting together fairly well for fiberglass but much tweaking to do.
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Amenson
On with fender fitting. I had the trunk shocks mouned with fasteners and needed to weld them in place so that the fiberglass fenders could sit down. I started cleaning the area for welding and found more grey bondo...WTF.gif

I thought that I had found all of the BS. Didn't get a picture of the area pre-repair but there was a strip of metal riveted under the rusted out area to support the grey bondo. Base area repaired.

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bootyshake.gif bs.gif bootyshake.gif bs.gif
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The passenger side fender fits much better now. On to the driver side. My substantial repairs were just off enough to make the new fender fit just a bit off so I had some tweeking to do. Much grinding and fitting later...

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Almost ready for bonding. I left all of the new weld seams only tacked in case I had to adjust something. Tomorrow they all get welded. Nothing beats a couple of hours of torch time.

More parts arrived today. Fuel pressure regulator with all AN fittings and fuel pressure sensor.

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I am taking my no hose clamp mantra to a whole new level. AN20 for the new radiator plumbing.

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Amenson
Passenger side repairs in place.
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So much work just to get solid metal to bond the fiberglass fenders to.
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So much work to get all of the moisture trapping white stuff from hell out. Well worth the effort.
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Driver side welded. Got sick of grinding so the welds are not quite flush...yet.
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Fed ex guy was probably wondering why I was so excited to get a rusty chunk of car in the mail. Thanks Mark, this is much better than the pictures.

Anyone have the passenger side of this? I would love to acquire it.

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Thought that it looked cool as the sun went down.
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After cleaning up the days mess I could not resist putting the chunk on the operating table to get started removing the rust causing white stuff from hell.
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Amenson
Sunday was supposed to be bonding day. I spent countless hours checking, tweaking, fussing, and delaying...because I was terrified that it was going to go terribly wrong.

Finally got to a point where bonding had to happen. Got out the adhesive and the dispenser and...that won't work. Turns out the dispenser works for 3M which is probably why Stephen recommended that I use 3m adhesive. headbang.gif SEM dispenser will be here Wednesday.

Was actually a huge relief. Not only did it give me a chance to fuss a bit more, the earlier start mowing the lawn was just enough to finish as the rain was starting!

After mowing the lawn I started working on the front fenders. Mostly just scraping the white stuff from hell and figuring out where to start cutting.
914forme
headbang.gif
Joemo5
That's some impressive work and impressive dedication! I love those AN20 fittings.
914forme
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one good thing is having the fender cut off makes it much easier to weld that in place. drooley.gif
charliew
I wish my concrete was that new.
Amenson
QUOTE(Joemo5 @ May 8 2018, 01:04 AM) *

That's some impressive work and impressive dedication! I love those AN20 fittings.

Thank you for the kind words. I really wish that I did not need to have such dedication, although I have learned a lot...that is good I guess huh.gif

QUOTE(914forme @ May 8 2018, 11:49 AM) *


one good thing is having the fender cut off makes it much easier to weld that in place. drooley.gif

I highly recommend the CRF kit, especially if you have access.

QUOTE(charliew @ May 8 2018, 02:29 PM) *

I wish my concrete was that new.


The concrete by the house is 4 years old, the rest is less than a year. My wife still reminds me of the consequences should I decide to lay 2 big black stripes down the driveway. driving.gif
charliew
I'm sure you know by now about rust cure or por15 on concrete and also a 3k pressure washer will write your name in concrete. I hope it stays nice a long time. A hunting friend who is a civil eng. once told me there are two types of concrete, that that has cracked and that that will crack. It is just a matter of time and temperature. It sure looks nice now. I bet that took a second mortgage at todays prices.
Amenson
The dispenser arrived today. What a well built tool, just feels solid and smooth.

Which is good because I put down a ton of SEM 39747. Applied to both the body and the fender. Both were wiped down with mineral spirits beforehand.

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I may have went a little nuts with the fasteners but I wanted to regret having too many holes to fill than having areas that were bulging or not bonded.
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I had time to do the other side but wanted to see how this one ended up so that I could make any needed adjustments.

914forme
Very nice, one down 4 to go.
Mueller
Nice, I was wondering how those are attached.
Amenson
QUOTE(914forme @ May 10 2018, 08:39 PM) *

Very nice, one down 4 to go.


Two down piratenanner.gif

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Mueller
That is a nice beefy intercooler. I'm afraid to look up that -AN fitting to see how much those puppies cost!
Andyrew
AN radiator fittings??? Jeeeeeeesus..
mepstein
QUOTE(Mueller @ May 10 2018, 11:58 PM) *

That is a nice beefy intercooler. I'm afraid to look up that -AN fitting to see how much those puppies cost!


$25-35. doesn't seem bad.
Amenson
QUOTE(mepstein @ May 11 2018, 07:12 AM) *

QUOTE(Mueller @ May 10 2018, 11:58 PM) *

That is a nice beefy intercooler. I'm afraid to look up that -AN fitting to see how much those puppies cost!


$25-35. doesn't seem bad.


I am using Vibrant fittings with the locking ferrule, still under $50. Well worth it to avoid wrestling with squished and baked on hoses any time I want to work on anything.

That intercooler will be on the chopping block this winter. Water/air like I did on Grey is the way to go.
Andyrew
QUOTE(mepstein @ May 11 2018, 04:12 AM) *

QUOTE(Mueller @ May 10 2018, 11:58 PM) *

That is a nice beefy intercooler. I'm afraid to look up that -AN fitting to see how much those puppies cost!


$25-35. doesn't seem bad.


Till you have to buy 8 of them to make them work... My fuel lines are AN10 and AN6. You would have thought that E85 compatible nylon braided fuel lines in black would have been the expensive part, no way.. fittings themselves F'in killed me.


I am confident my next project involving hoses and lines is going to have a LOT more solid line connections. I think its cleaner and more stout.
914forme
I like it, looking good.

Andrew if you can pull it off, solid lines are the only way to go. You will still have expenses, flare tooling for the proper flare on the tube. Or tubing beaders to make the proper end on the tube. Don't forget all the audial clamps you will ned to properly support the tube. Sheet metal tabs bent over the a tube isolated in rubber is how the factory solved the issue. I prefer Andial clamps, each their own. You still have fitting costs in transitions from moving to solid parts. Weld on bungs are nice, but still $$ in fitting costs, and TIG time. Just depends on the level of what your building and willing to accept.

Vibrant Performance Fittings w00t.gif wub.gif Scott you just moved that build to the big leagues.

Amenson
QUOTE(914forme @ May 11 2018, 09:35 AM) *

I like it, looking good.

Andrew if you can pull it off, solid lines are the only way to go. You will still have expenses, flare tooling for the proper flare on the tube. Or tubing beaders to make the proper end on the tube. Don't forget all the audial clamps you will ned to properly support the tube. Sheet metal tabs bent over the a tube isolated in rubber is how the factory solved the issue. I prefer Andial clamps, each their own. You still have fitting costs in transitions from moving to solid parts. Weld on bungs are nice, but still $$ in fitting costs, and TIG time. Just depends on the level of what your building and willing to accept.

Vibrant Performance Fittings w00t.gif wub.gif Scott you just moved that build to the big leagues.


I use Vibrant AN stuff because it is generally cheaper than Earls, etc. $20-$30 cheaper in AN20!

I will be transitioning to hard line through the tunnel. You can see the weld bung in the fitting picture above. Plus you have to add the AN bungs on the engine and radiator side. Loads of TIG time in my near future.
mepstein
QUOTE(Amenson @ May 11 2018, 09:52 AM) *

QUOTE(914forme @ May 11 2018, 09:35 AM) *

I like it, looking good.

Andrew if you can pull it off, solid lines are the only way to go. You will still have expenses, flare tooling for the proper flare on the tube. Or tubing beaders to make the proper end on the tube. Don't forget all the audial clamps you will ned to properly support the tube. Sheet metal tabs bent over the a tube isolated in rubber is how the factory solved the issue. I prefer Andial clamps, each their own. You still have fitting costs in transitions from moving to solid parts. Weld on bungs are nice, but still $$ in fitting costs, and TIG time. Just depends on the level of what your building and willing to accept.

Vibrant Performance Fittings w00t.gif wub.gif Scott you just moved that build to the big leagues.


I use Vibrant AN stuff because it is generally cheaper than Earls, etc. $20-$30 cheaper in AN20!

I will be transitioning to hard line through the tunnel. You can see the weld bung in the fitting picture above. Plus you have to add the AN bungs on the engine and radiator side. Loads of TIG time in my near future.

where do you purchase your vibrant fittings?
Amenson
QUOTE(mepstein @ May 11 2018, 11:12 AM) *

where do you purchase your vibrant fittings?


Lately Summit, but Jegs has them too.
Amenson
Tom (the owner of Grey) and his son stopped by the garage this weekend to check up on the project and install some parts that will make test driving it less troublesome. It was great to have them in the shop and I took advantage of the extra hands to install the rear bumper. I wanted to make sure that it fit with the fiberglass fenders...looks like it does.

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Now I can make the fiberglass bumper fit to match.
The flares were installed purely to allow wider tires but damn do they look good too!

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On with real work. I got out the plasma cutter to help me slice through the various layers of the a-pillar chunk. In the end it came down to the spot welds along the flange and the two mig welds colored in black.

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Nice piece to put back on the car.
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Just a small area at the bottom to fix.
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Hack off the rusty crap
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effutuo101
popcorn[1].gif
Keep it up! Looking good!
Amenson
I called my backup plan for front passenger fender parts today and he agreed to let me hack up one of his yard cars. If that fails I am sure he will have a nice $$ fender in the building. That good news combined with confirmation from the power team (my parents) that they will come down again for Memorial weekend to help grind through some more tasks gave me the confidence to kick off the performance upgrades.

First step was to disconnect the cooling lines from the engine and make a terrible mess. I rewarded myself by yanking my least favorite part on the car. My cobbled together intake with all of the recirc connections behind the MAF. We don't need no MAF where we are going (will actually keep it in the intake temporarily to help with the speed density tuning). Yes, that is a copper plumbing elbow barf.gif

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I also enjoyed cutting the never to be used again hose clamped fuel lines.
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