My front end alignment is WAY off so I decided to do some checking with my el cheapo alignment tools and a T square. I can not seem to ajust the tube enough to make it center. I think that I took the strut top adjustment plates (the ones that the bolts ont he top thread into) from the 70 911 that I raided for the front end. Are they the same as the 914? I am seeing some fierce negative camber and caster, any other adjustments I may have forgotten?

Pitch and Yaw...

They should be the same. (from what I recall)

Pitch is what you do to your many future wives

Yawl, is what you do before you go to sleep

Jack Moron.....................

Pitch is the positive / negative angle formed along the horizontal center line of a wing.

YAW is a left/right movement about a vertical axis

Mike, did you move the plate on the top of the strut that are locked with the three bolts in the wheelhouse strut housing? They are the same though.

They're the same enough that side by side I couldn't tell them apart. One of the threaded bits was broken in one of my 911 ones, so I used a 914 one.

Mikie: I looked in my PET and could not find anything called a doo dad.
:PERMAGRIN: Joe

did you look under shit or hair?.......doo


Gimme a head with hair, long beautiful hair
Shining, gleaming, steaming, flaxen, waxen
Give me down to there, hair!
Shoulder length, longer (hair!)
Here baby, there mama, Everywhere daddy daddy

CHORUS:
Hair! (hair, hair, hair, hair, hair, hair)
Flow it, Show it;
Long as God can grow it, My Hair!


PS Mike the part number on what you're asking for on the 914 is 911 341 018 00 (that should give you a clue)

Thanks, I think


It still remains that I can not seem to get my passenger side, the only onw I am currently working on, to have 0 camber. At the least is it like -1, is this sufficient? Also, there is NO way the caster is gonna = 0. There is not enough adjustment for what I am seeing. Is this normal as well? The strut tube goes from the mount at top to a forward angle at bottom.

Yes, I was refering to the mount with the 3 socket head bolts holding it in place.

I bet the sides are the same as well. YAY! Another issue for me to fix. As it stands I can not get the car over 10mph (when I got it to run months ago) without it shaking my fillings lose.

First, 0 caster and the car will be mostly unsteerable....AFAIR, caster is 4 - 7 degrees +.

Caster (or castor) angle is the angular displacement from the vertical axis of the suspension of a steered wheel in a car or other vehicle, measured in the longitudinal direction. It is the angle between the pivot line (an imaginary line that runs through the center of the upper ball joint to the center of the lower ball joint) and vertical. Car racers sometimes adjust caster angle to optimize car performance in particular driving situations.

The pivot points of the steering are angled such that a line drawn through them intersects the road surface slightly ahead of the contact point of the wheel. The purpose of this is to provide a degree of self-centering for the steering - the wheel casters around so as to trail behind the axis of steering. This makes a car easier to drive and improves its straight line stability (reducing its tendency to wander). Excessive caster angle will make the steering heavier and less responsive, although, in racing, large caster angles are used to improve camber gain in cornering. Caster angles over 10 degrees with radial tires are common. Power steering is usually necessary to overcome the jacking effect from the high caster angle.



Now camber is another story......I would think that the movement allowed could get you + camber as in most cases people who race can't get enough negative.

My friend, doo dads are what the Grease Man refers to as TESTICLES!


Yes, them doo dads are diffrent silly. Glad to be helpfull.

Nope, as it sits now with the weight on the suspention and the wheel off, the top of the wheel/brake disk is pointed inward with the adjuster all the way outboard.

4-7 is no problem. I was less worried about that aspect. I need to get it able to drive to an alignment shop...not ready yet.

Strut bent?

Maybe your pet is neutered?

Shouldnt be, new inserts too. I will see if I can rule that out for sure, though.

Car would be fully driveable with 1-2 degrees negative.

You need toe-in on both front and rear for stability too.

Remember that the factory prolly calculated and set the range of camber adjustment with the lower "A" arm parallel to the ground thru the inboard and outboard pickup points (ball joint and arm bushings). Any deviation from the horizontal (raising or lowering the inboard pickup point will have an adverse effect on camber.......should go + either way cause as the arm swings the arc, it is pulling the out board pickup in toward the inboard pickup.

Now, throw in body roll at the same time and.....oh well

Mike, remember yer gettin answers from the SoCal guys..

That taken into account.

I would get it a s close as you can and then take it to an alignment guy.

IMHO.....





Love ya and the wife says HI! to Noel....

Yaw... like I said.



That would be "casterated"



Someone hip me to where mountain man cut copy and pasted this shit from. Hims ain't that "inteligente". HOWEVER! I may be in agreement with the mongrel... bent or sagging spindles on early 911 front ends (more common than you think) can lead to fierce camber.