I have a connection for SS hardware and was thinking of offering a very inexpensive kit (around $20-$40, depending on content). I was wondering if anyone would be interested and was looking for ideas on what to include. I know high stress areas would not be ok, so far I have the following ideas-

Engine tin- stock looking bolts or allen head (did allen on mine- looks cool)
Intake nuts/washers
Carb nuts/washers- if needed
air cleaner/s hardware-
engine area- I have carbs and don't know what is needed for FI
The four bolts (two large/two small) that hold the steering rack cover under the car, they are always nasty
pedal box nuts
acc pedal bolts
bumper bolts
licence plate hardware
muffler to headers and bracket hardware- unless muffler/header SS is a bad idea

Any other ideas? Would this be a good idea? I changed all this stuff on mine and it was a pain digging everything up, I thought it would be neat to have a 914 kit. I am not worried about making money on it, just break even.


EDIT- good suggestions:
Bumper pad nuts
Threshold strip screws

That would be neat... but most of the SS nuts/bolts/washers can be had at a FLAPS for cheap.

The air cleaner bits would be neat, engine sheet metal would be AWESOME.

Bmper bolts have to be a specific grade for shear strength I believe, as well as the bolts for the steering rack.

Not shooting down your idea... Stainless stuff in non-critical areas is excellent and affordable eye candy Especially since it won't ever turn red and give you tetanus in a couple years...

I meant the cover for the steering rack area, not the rack. Good call on the bumper bolts, was not thinking. I realize most of this stuff can be found, just thought it would be neat to have a whole kit for the same or less $ (should be less) and no driving around looking. I know in my area local stores don't have any 7mm stuff and not a lot of metric stainless. I am out in the middle of nowhere though.

I would be into that. Sure I can get it on my own but it's kinda a pain in the ass.

I have a pretty good selection here at work but nothing out of the ordinary. I've only replace screws inside the cabin because I am not sure what I can replace outside the car.

Any chance you could just offer a selection of M6, M8, M10 bolts, washers, nuts, etc?

-Britain

I'd buy a kit.

I just thought about the fact that a large percentage of the people on this board live in CA, they don't have the amazing instant rust we do in the northwest. Maybe this is not really that good of an idea. The hardware still looks really nice though.

I personally wouldn't worry about shear strength for the '70-'74 bumper. The bumper itself or the body would cave long before an 8.8 stainless-equivalent would.

I used stainless for mine. Got them at www.aaronsgeneralstore.com

Another place for stainless- the nuts that hold the bumper pad to the top of the bumper. I actually found stainless self-locking M6 nuts...

Also, the sheet metal screws that hold the inboard threshold strips along the carpet...

Jim

I think it would be great if there was a complete set of new hardware available, correct sizes and styles for our 914's, going this route is a pain;

Wow Lou, thats nuts (Ha). What sort of plating is going on those? Why didn't you just buy new, at least on everything exept the formed pieces?

i'd buy a set or 2.

WildBill, I'd take a set.

Stainless steel and regular old steel when screwed into each other can weld themsleves together. You need to let your customer know or supply them with a container of anti seize.
CCLINZHELPIMSTUCK

I planned on throwing a tube of anti-sieze in, I can get handy little "lipgloss" tube type containers of Loctite silver grade by the case really cheap.


http://www.sealingdevices.com/loctite/silver.html

The idea of stainless fasteners for the engine may sound cool, but its not!

The reason nis that stainless steel is not magnetic, if one of the fasteners is inducted into a vital orfice of the engine there is no way to retrieve it with a magnet.

I speak from experience on this one and don't allow any fasteners on my engines to be stainless for this very reason. It is very easy to lose a sheet metal screw during maintenance and have it drop right down an open intake valve, not being able to retrieve it with a magnet turns into a nightmare that requires engine removal and disassembly...

Don't let aesthetics boggle your mind, its an engine- function and keeping it free of foreign object debris is a big concern. I learned this working on aircraft turbine engines and live by it.

Other places on thecar that are less pertinent may be fine with stainless..

Man, I hate it when he does that. Probably right, I have dropped my share of nuts down intakes and retrieved them with a magnet. I guess carb/intake areas are kinda asking for it.

I think if I do this I will just warn everyone, I believe having things like cooling tin fasteners that do not rust are worth the risk, those bolts are in really bad shape on every 914 or VW that I have ever worked on.

People will just have to decide if it is worth it to them.

Click to view attachment

Why don't you try the BLACK coated Allen headed bolts!!
I've used them on all my engine tins, seats mounts etc.etc. and they look awsome!
And are easily retreiveable with a magnet (I've also dropped a few times and had to dig'em out)

It's my position to keep you guys thinking on the functional and safety level before the appearance bug bites ya!

My engine hardware kit doesn't have a single S/S fastener in its composition simply for the reasons I posted above..

But if you know the risks up front and know that you can't retrieve the hardware if it does get dropped maybe you'll be more careful- hopefully..

When you have a customer waste a 20,000 buck engine that you had over 220 hours of your life in to create, with a 10 cent stainless steel nut you'll understand my view. Fastener control also has an entirely new meaning if you have ever worked around aircraft, if one washer isn't accounted for the ENTIRE squadron is grounded until its found. One washer could cost a million bucks to repair or could cost your friend his life if it goes in the wrong place.

Maybe the 6 is different. But where are you dropping these bolts that you can't get to them

I admit Peters 2.0 looked like a mess of wires and hoses. In that case droping bolts might suck.