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computers4kids
74 1.8 ljet runs great at all speeds. If it sits in the sun and gets real hot, it cranks fine but won't always start right away. I've never moved my fuel pump from the oem location and don't really want to unless necessary. Does this sound like vapor lock??
Appreciate any advice,
Mark
So.Cal.914
Don't think I have ever had my car vapor lock while it was parked. Here in the

summer(120+) it would be something that would happen after driving around town,

stop and go. First a miss than a huge hesitation than nothing (Webers).
Joe Owensby
If you drove your car and heated the engine up, then turned the motor off, the symptoms you describe could very well be vapor lock. The heat from the engine just sits below the sheet metal dividing the top and bottom of the engine, where it heats up the fuel pump and then- vapor lock. I had it on mine. Joe O.
john grier
agree.gif My vaporlocks came from starting and stoping at short distance.
computers4kids
QUOTE(Joe Owensby @ Aug 19 2006, 06:11 PM) *

If you drove your car and heated the engine up, then turned the motor off, the symptoms you describe could very well be vapor lock. The heat from the engine just sits below the sheet metal dividing the top and bottom of the engine, where it heats up the fuel pump and then- vapor lock. I had it on mine. Joe O.


I guess I thought that vapor lock on these cars was more of a problem for the carb people. It seems with the pressure of FI (28+) there wouldn't be this issue, unlike 3psi on a carb motor. Since there are no symptoms once the car is running, maybe because the FI fuel pumps only runs for a 1.5 seconds during startup the fuel is locking-up.

The problem is definitely worst after driving it a while, stopping and letting it sit in our beautiful 100 + Visalia weather.

Do I need to buy a relocation kit, or can you just get longer hoses etc at the parts store?

Thanks guys for chiming in!
elwood-914
Hi Mark,

I was having a lot of vapor lock problems. Where I live it gets HOT. I bought a relocation kit. If you could source the rubber isolators to mount the fuel pump to, then all there is left are the fuel line hoses and a bit of wire and some clamps. It would be much cheaper for you that way.

But then again I did replace the fuel lines in the tunnel to accomodate the higher fuel pressure.
Rrrockhound
Old articles in Up-Fixin recommended always keeping at least a 1/4 tank of gas in the tank, and cranking the ignition key (without starting the engine) about 25 times to cycle plenty of cool gas from the tank through the lines. I solved my problem by placing some thin HVAC insulation from Home Depot between the heater flapper and the fuel pump. Stopped vapor lock dead in its tracks.
computers4kids
QUOTE(Rrrockhound @ Aug 20 2006, 11:26 AM) *

Old articles in Up-Fixin recommended always keeping at least a 1/4 tank of gas in the tank, and cranking the ignition key (without starting the engine) about 25 times to cycle plenty of cool gas from the tank through the lines. I solved my problem by placing some thin HVAC insulation from Home Depot between the heater flapper and the fuel pump. Stopped vapor lock dead in its tracks.


Maybe I'll try some insulation as well...won't hurt. The idea of the fuel recyling to cool it down a bit before you actually try to start the engine sounds sensible, I just don't don't how practical that is. FI pumps only run for a short burst when first cranking. I guess you could wire a switch that engages the pump without the ignition key...but that sounds like a fire bomb waiting to happen.

Thanks for all the ideas...
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