I have someone offering a friend a "reacently rebuilt" TIV engine and two things stick out to me that give me pause.

1) The current owner claims that the engine was reacently rebuilt, but does not know what size it is. He "thinks" is a 2.0.

2) Claims 110psi more or less on all cylinders. Sounds low to me for new rings and honed cylinders. I am assuming that they are run in, though.


Waht are your thoughts? What values would you expect form a reacent rebuilt?

Low compression bus pistons? You might be able to tell through a sparkplug hole.

Dr - I just spoke w/Rich and said the same thing that 110psi seemed a bit low but the Hayne's manual should have a rating on this.

Probably, I am in class right now so no manual here.

Last time I did a compression check on my 2.0 I had readings in the 150-160 range. I still don't know what is inside the engine exactly but it looks mostly like everything is stock. The intake runners are so free of carbon it makes me think that the engine was rebuilt not long before the car sat for 15 years. HTH

Thanks man, those are the numbers I told him. I was pretty sure but wanted a second, third oppinion.

I heard 160 from my bus buddies.

Im thinking its less than new.

b

the intake runners would get carbon how?

combustion takes place inside the head, and fuel is only intorduced into the runners at the very end (Injector points at the valve) so only air is flowing thru them.... not a source of carbon

110 = low

you might look at it - depending on the price.

Something donna feel right.

M

allow me to introduce myself. i am the unamed friend of dr. evil who was looking at the wierd type four with low compression or bus pistons or what the hell. i'll let it go. will rebuild my 1.7 but you guys are suffer through it with me. now let's begin. pete do you want to sell your extra 1.8 heads.

That's where my 2 liter was after the PO did a rebuild.

my 2056 had between 155 and 165 ...

Andy

It all depends upon the price. Look at it and see if

1. 2.0 heads
2. condition of case

It could be a better candidate for rebuild than the 1.7/1.8.

I bought a 2.0 engine that rotated w tranny and exhast for $300 a couple of years ago.

Turns out that one head had a piston missing chunks and needed a complete rebuild. But I got the tranny and exhasut - which were woth more than $300.

And I am still slowly rebuilding the engine.

M

Sir Andy - What types of heads are you using on your 2056? 1.8L or 2.0L?

Chef - we'll talk later this w'end. Not sure what the heads look like when we take them off. They are coming off for a reason after all...

-pt

What you need to do, Rich, is either rebuild the 1.7 stock (not my first choice) or locate a good core 1.8/2.0 and rebuild it to what you want.

What = a 1911?
What = a 2056?

I forget which rod, crank, p/c combos go to each. If you get this info you can start to plan your attack. Is Leo keeping his engine?

For the record, what the guy wanted for the unverified size, rebuild and compression engine was not worth the parts.

the engine had 2.0L heads ...
Andy

and why not use his 1.7L case to build a 2056 or whatever he wants ???
Andy

andy was under the impression 1.7 heads could'nt be built out to either a 2.0 or 2056. am i wrong again?

I *think* a 1911 is stock 1.8L crank/rods w/96mm P/C's.

I *know* a 2056 is stock 2.0L crank/rods w/96mm P/C's.

I forget what mm stroke the crank and length rods are on stock though
2056 is said to be the max to be used w/the slightly modified (dialed in MPS) D-Jet.


-pt

Andy was talking about the case. You would need different heads (either 1.8L or 2.0L) then 96mm pistons w/either matching cylinders or get the 1.7L's honed out to match the 96's.

You'll see all of this first hand this w'end as my setup is 96mm p/c's, stock 2.0L crank/rods, 1.8L heads all built off what *was* a a1.7L case. The 1.7L case can be used for the other sizes...

-pt

So happens I just checked the compression on my '76 2.0 last Saturday. It has 850 miles since the rebuild, with stock heads and Euro 8:1 pistons. Pistons and cylinders new. Compression was 140-145 all around. Checked it with all plugs out and the throttle floored. Not sure if that's as high as it should be, but I'm not losing sleep over it yet.

Jim

[quote name='Dr Evil' date='Aug 22 2006, 06:37 AM' post='757508']
I have someone offering a friend a "reacently rebuilt" TIV engine and two things stick out to me that give me pause.

new info suspect engine # WWO 71101-102-cs112
top plate 071100031AX

what does this tell us?

that tells us that:

a. you can't read OR a1. it's not a T4 engine
b. you haven't found the "914 Info" link on top of each page here yet

Andy

I thought that if he used the 1.7 he would need to get a different crank and rods due tot he stroke, right? I could be wrong as it has been a while.

Andy, be nice. Rich is still at the lower end of the curve when it comes to this site and TIV engines. (No I am not calling you stupid, Rich, just inexperienced )

We need pics of the suspect engine.

Correct, he would need to get a stock 2.0L crank & rods. They are fairly affordable. Prob ~150 for a good used set, then an additional $100 to get them balanced (along w/the other pieces - flywheel, pressure plate, etc). Then there's a new gasket set, new bearings, new push rods, new.......

Ya, I sent him a list of necessity parts already. Told him to start shopping now.

I never had to get a crank and rods separate so I did not know. I always just got and used the motor.

But - whats the $ on the engine?

M

Just to make sure... Did you have the throttle floored as Jim suggested. If the throttle was not floored, then I think you may get lower readings. Not sure if it will make that much difference but at least some.

Mark

who did the compression check?

Hot or cold?

WOT or closed intake.....?

Did you folloow up with oil in the cylinders?

Did you do a leak down?

110 IS low....IF the test was done right.

BTW....ANY complete 2.0 engine is a core unless it has paperwork.

It's worth 800-1000.00

[/quote]

the intake runners would get carbon how?

combustion takes place inside the head, and fuel is only intorduced into the runners at the very end (Injector points at the valve) so only air is flowing thru them.... not a source of carbon
[/quote]

Sorry I was referring to the intake ports since I had everything apart to change all the engine seals. Everything was pretty clean, I could see the valve stems shine and the car is supposed to have around 68K miles.

yeah, i want my doctor to be playing with cars instead of listening....

and if you can get on the 914club board, you can get the manuals

here's a link ...

http://www.icbm.org/erkson/personal/Porsch...nuals/index.htm

bookmark it now so there will be no excuses next time....

Last August I rehabed my top end(burnt Valve), rebuild 2.0 heads, stanless valves, and re-ringed the crappy dished bus pistons GEX.
Recently I did a compression check, hot, all plugs out, at WOT. and came up with 110 all around. It's 2 liters of displacment, so I'm guessing my low numbers are tied to those crap-ass pistons. Fairly certain the book says at least 125. Any one got some jugs they want to get ride of?
Samson

hey gang gotta love all this attention. to answer a few ? i've havent seen the engine yet. do not know who or how the comp test was done. the price is he bought a 912 engine from me for 1350 wants to give me his engine + 300. i think i can read but when i look at the 914 info at the top of the page all i see under engine # are letters. feel free to correct me if i'm wrong

correct. meaning, any T4 that was meant to be in a 914 has a serial number starting with one of those letters (some have two) and then a number which is basically the count off the assembly line ...

so, if your engine number does not start with one of the letters listed, the case is not a 914 T4 ...

simple, eh?
Andy

PS: for instance, the 2.0L case sitting here in my living room has the serial "GA 012654", which makes the case a '73 or '74 2.0L US-Spec ...

Dont worry man, I'll be the best gyno you ever had

I was in a very pointless stats class. Nothing important, unfortunately

Thanks for the link

For future reference, you will get carbon in the intake runners from detonation. If your timing is too advanced, you'll blow exhaust gas up through the intake runners and you'll get some black goodness in your intake manifold. Yes, I've seen it.

Engines with a bunch of overlap will also show signs of carbon in the intake. Same as above (exhuast happening while the intake is closing)


B

1.7 cranks and 1.8 cranks are the same.

For a low budget 1.7/1.8 rebuild, get 96 pistons and build a 1911. Make sure you get the correct pin height, as in buy them specifically for 1.7/1.8 66mm stroke cranks. Get 1.8 heads (remember cheap), build it and run it hard till it dies.

For a low budget 2.0 rebuild, get 96 pistons for a 71 mm stroke, 1.8 heads and build.

2.0 heads will work for either engine and will add power & cost.

1.7 heads will only work with a stock 1.7 engine, all other parts are reusable.

You can flycut the 1.7 heads and use them with 96's, you can also use all the

other 1.7 parts (other than the crank, rods & P/C's) to build a 2.0 displacement

engine. But I would change the cam.