Engine and tranny are out of car...
The 4 bolts for the CVs inside the trailing arm are removed,
but the CV isn't coming out...
What am I missing here?Do I need to remove the disc and hub?
Sorry, I don't have a Haynes or
a digital camera handy...
Also, once I remove the CV's, I want to be able to roll the car around... Anything else I should know??? LOL
Like I said, Stupid question.... But I don't know...LOL

TIA
Thom

Tom, I think you have to remove the spindle nut from the hub.

Will I need to put the spindle nut back in before I can roll the car? I want to be able to roll the car without the engine or CV's installed... Am I going to have to pull or press bearings for this to happen?

Thom

separate the stub axle from the outboard CV; re-insert into the hub, retorque pretty tight. you;ll be safe to move the car with the stub axle tight.

Thanks for the help guys... I'm going to take break, and come bake to this later tonight or tomorrow... I'll update then -

Thom

There are two large roll-pins that hold the CV joint to the hub; just like on the transmission side.
These roll-pins usually need persuasion (aka tapping with hammer) to come loose.
Hub can be removed with the disk still in place.

G.

they be correct... you need to take that nut off and slide out the entire assembly with the stub axle included. Then use your favorite persuader to get the stub axle off the CV. Mine is a plastic mallet and a screwdriver. Stick the screwdriver in where the gasket is (you'll need new gaskets anyway) and get a rocking motion started. Gary is spot on with the roll pins. Those and a greasy grimy gasket/mating surface are what is currently preventing you from just yanking it out.

I've got a question for the collective:

Is there an easy way to get the boot/cover off without damaging them? That's about all that's standing between me and putting my rear axles back together.

Thanks in advance,

so. what you want it to remove the axel, correct? the cv's are on the axel, retained by a c-lip. the out board ones can be tough. sometimes you have to pull back and forth, and rock them side to side on the axel to get them to pull free. time is the key, not force. the c- clip may come loose. don't let the cv fall apart. bag the ends with big ziplock bags. no need to pull the stubs. put the wheels back on and you can roll the car around. as for the boots. if they are torn up or full of water or dirt. get new ones. they are available with the metal flange attached for about the same price. plan on repacking the cv's. clean and inspect. get a haynes. get a haynes. get a haynes ... the worst part of this is getting the petrified gasket off the flange. you will need 4 for reassembly. buy 8 they are cheap.

kevin

kevin

Well,
I tried to remove the spindle nut.... Huge socket and 1/2" breaker bar about 30" long....
I had to hook up a pair of vice grips onto the rotor to get it to stop spinning.... Had no luck getting the nut to budge.... sprayed w/PB blaster and after an hour still no luck...
Looks like I am going to have to find a bigger pipe, and I 'm afraid I am going to break the socket and breaker bar.... Antboody have any other suggestions?

TIA
Thom

An electric impact should do the trick. That's all I used and mine came right off.
Doug

huge socket should not be required - it's not but 30mm IIRC.

i usually just stick a punch or a good solid screwdriver into the brake disk vent to keep it from turning - it pins to the caliper. if you don't have vented rear disks tho i guess this won't help you...

you do have the cotter pin out, yes ? (hadda ask ...)

respray with the penetrating oil, maybe hit the nut with some serious heat from a MAPP gas torch.

the VW places make a tool for their 36mm axle nuts - looks like a giant crowsfoot - that you slip over the nut, preload with a 1/2-drive breaker, and smack with a sledge hammer. donno if a version is available for our 30mm nuts...

when air tools are not available to me i find a 4' pipe extension to be about right - but i have a 3/4" drive flex handle for this very purpose...

it'll probably yeild to a few seconds of an impact wrench - you can probably power a 1/2" impact wrrench from a standard racer-type air tank - typically a converted propane or freon tank ...) for the few seconds you'll need. good luck

why are you pulling the hub? to put in new bearings?

kevin

Yah,

Why remove the spindle?

Remove four bolts on the inner CV joint, four bolts on the outer CV joint, and the halfshaft and both CV joints come loose (once you slide the joints inward to clear the pins in the dishes)

Once the CV joints and axles are out, roll it wherever you desire.

Only time I would pull the spindle would be for a bad bearing.

Ken

because usually, it's a lot easier to pull the complete halfshaft and separate the outer CV on the bench than it is to loosen the bolts through the hole in the trailing arm and try to pull the CV off the roll pins in the car.

i agree there's no reason to pull the hub unless you are already in there to replace bearings (and if you weren't before, you will after you pull the hubs :-) ...)

Put the wheel back on and lower the car to the ground. With the center cap of the wheel
removed you can get a 30mm socket in and the castled nut should come loose.

It worked for both sides of my car.

john

might as well do the bearing on both sides then. that can't cost TOO much. then get a gorilla to retorque the castilated nut to 217-253 ft lbs. wait until all the ball bearings in the cv fall out of the cage and roll all over the garage floor. fun stuff. get a manual.

kevin

You can allways go the cheep route, if all you want to do is move the car around. Tie the axels up with wire. Loop it around them so they turn freely. I tie the ends to the rear hood spring. Another piece of wire to the front of the engine bay to keep them from swaying. Works if your not going far and keeps the axels up off the ground.

I am preping the car for paint, including the engine compartment, a 5 lug, and V8 conversion, and I will be moving the car around a bit.... Tieing up the axles is not something I want to deal with, and they need to come out anyway. The outside boots are good, and not torn and still attached.
If remove the boots,will the axles come out, or will I just have a big greasy mess?
I don't have the parts for the 5 lug yet, so I am not in a huge hurry to open up a can of worms when I don't have the replacement parts....
Yes, I have removed the pin, and am using the 30mm socket to attempt to loosen the socket. I guess my next move is to get my compressor back from my buddy that borrowed it a few weeks ago, and try my impact on it...But my experience is that it won't touch it...

Thanks for the help guys -
Thom

ahhh. is the car going to recieve a 301? sean mentioned you putting in an early z28 engine.

kevin

Yes,
68-69 SBC 302