Besides doing the match porting for the oil pump, anything else to do while the block is bare?

Should I worry about cleaning up extra casting flashing?

Did you measure the mains with a inside bore gauge while the block was torqued together ??

Britain has your heads. I will need to get you a few new intake studs and exhaust studs.

Somewhere along the repair procedure some of the studs where pulled. They are probably floating around my truck somewhere.


B

Yank all your oil galley plugs, drill and tap them for 3/8, 1/4 and 1/8" NPT plugs. Clean galleys with wire bottle brushes.

You won't believe the nasty crap sitting in the galleys. I don't care how well the case was hot tanked, that crap is just waiting to go through your shiny new bearings.

He is ready to go together. He wont pull the galley plugs.


B

PULL AND TAP THE GALLEYS!!!!! its a must!

Mike, email me and I'll start helping ya. I have almost all the other parts here that you will need.

Does anyone have a how to on tapping the oil galleys? I know how to tap threads I just dont know which ones to tap or should I just tap all of them?

John

My motor is still sitting in the cleaning tank, I have not touched it in ages

B, can you bring the taps that you or Britain bought in order to tap the block for the for the ARP head bolt studs?

I bought a new set for the shop... I can bring them but I dont have a NPT tap in the kit (I bought a new Metric kit).



B

I started (this year) to pull/tap cases after rebuilding two customers’ engines (last year) and have to do R&R's because of leaking plugs. I was horrified at the amount of crap that came out of the galleys. On one of my own cases I bead blasted it, then hot tanked/washed it 3 times. When I pulled the plugs all kinds of glass beads fell out.



5- 3/8" NPT (national pipe thread)

5- 1/4" NPT

1- 1/8" NPT

3 of the 3/8"NPT are behind the flywheel, one 1/4" is under/between 3/4 cylinders (this one I sometimes skip as you can clean this galley and it rarely leaks), the 1/8" is right beside the nose seal and the rest are around the cooler/filter area.

I use the steel (allan/hex) plugs, I've tried the Al and brass plugs. Some will argue that the Al plugs are better because of the expansion rate, but the steel ones can be cranked in way tighter. Use some locktite, mine never leak.

You can lay the case halves face down on a mill and surface the cylinder spigots to make sure they are flat. You need to also lathe cut the cylinders to make sure they are true, check the lifter bores witha dial gauge or telescoping guages, tap all of the galley plugs, clean up the oil filter mounting pad, drill and straighten the shot from the oil pump to the oil filter housing, plug the bypass vavle on the filter housing, ream or drill the outlet from the filter housing into the block. Check and make sure all of the oil holes are the same size in the bearings as the block if they are not you need to drill the bearings. I sould boat tail the block to help out with windage. clean up all of the excesss casting flash. modify the windage tray for better oil control, tap the heads for better beather hose fittings, etc. Pull all of the studs from the block and run a clean up tap down in the holes. measure everything twice.

Brett,
You lost me with the boat tail the block. My engine didnt have a windage tray in it when I tore it down.

Mark Henry,
Thanks for the quick and dirty guide to what to tap.

John