I am trying to replace my CV joint on the pass. side. I cannot for the life of me get the "C" ring to slide on to the axle far enough to slip into it's groove. I have taken the heat exchanger off on that side to have better access. I understand that I need to compress the spring washer to get the ring on but is this possible without removing the entire axle, 'cuz I really don't want to do that if it's not absolutely necessary. I was using the inner part of the old CV joint to push against the C ring since that is the perfect size to go over the axle and push only on the C ring. It's got about a 1/16th of an inch to go, but it might as well be a mile. How hard can I mash on it without damaging something?

mhmmm, that sounds odd ...

i don't recall having to push hard at all, washer, then CV, then clip, all went back together without any need for force ...

maybe the washer is binding behind the CV and not fully seated?
Andy

Walk away from it for a few days. Totally think of something else. Come back to it with a fresh mind. You will see something that you missed before, and it will just work.

This is how I go about it when somehting stumps me on my 914. So far, it has worked every time.

Zach

"Zen and the art of Porsche 914 maintanance".

There is a right and a wrong way to load the joint onto the shaft (you may have assembled the joint incorrectly). The correct side has a shallow taper to allow clearance for the bottom of the splines on the shaft. If you look closely the splines on the shaft are not fully formed where they meet the seat on the shaft. The wrong side is square cut and no matter how hard you try (I know from experience) will never seat far enough to get the snap ring loaded.

OK, now I'm worried. When installing 4 new CV boots, I installed the CVs back on the drive shaft with the square (non-beveled) side of the CV hub first. The circlip seemed to pop into it's groove fine, but now I'm unsure. Do I need to tear the hole thing apart and reverse the CVs on the shaft so the bevel side of the hub goes on first?

Yes.

that's brutal

Hey Tom, Aloha from Kona, Hawaii

I did a test fit with those CV's and if using the conical washer it is a tight fit with the retaining ring supplied. I used a socket toà

using my Treo...lets try this again.
I think you can leave the washer out and let the CV float.

It is impossible to install a CV backwards due to the spring pins.

[quote name='Mueller' date='Sep 12 2006, 04:29 AM' post='769598']
[quote name='Mueller' post='769597' date='Sep 12 2006, 03:05 AM']
It is impossible to install a CV backwards due to the spring pins.
[/quote]

Really? I took my CVs entirely apart and assembled them with the beveled side of the hub toward the spring pin side of the outer part - which is backward (according to earlier posts in this thread). Oops...

Here's a picture of my assembled CV - I think the hub should be flipped over so that the bevel is on the opposite side. You guys agree?

Here's what I did to remedy the problem: The new CV joint had a raised area about 1/32" tall on the inner piece facing where the C ring goes (see arrow). It was this area, I believe, that prevented the C ring from sliding far enough down the axle to slip into it's groove. The original CV was flat here. I ground the raised area flat, like the original piece and it went on just like it said it would in the brochure.

Kona Hawaii!! Mike I am so jealous.

<--- that's coffee (Kona) mmmmmmmmmmm

enjoying some Kona coffee right now & we might go visit a coffee plantation later on. Your next CV installs will go on easier, sorry about the problems.

one side is raised, one side is flat ... the raise side goes towards the axle (with the washer behind) and the flat side goes towards the end with the clip holding the CV in place ...

if you had to grind something off, there's something wrong with your assembly ...
Andy

raised part goes on the axle:

Click to view attachment

flat part goes on the outside with the clip:

Click to view attachment


Andy

thanks guys - I'll look at it as an opportunity to replace the rusty exhaust muffler with a new one. Does anybody have an opinion on an exhaust in the $250 range that would improve performance (stock 1.8)?