A few weeks ago at the autocross at Marina I lost my brakes - wound up being one of my fastest runs. I found the fluid reservoir empty. I borrowed some brake fluid, topped the reservoir up and things worked fine. I tightened the nuts holding the lines to the front calipers and thought I had the problem licked - the fluid level appeared to be stable.

I just noticed the fluid level down a bit and so went to investigate. I found the fluid leaking by the nut holding the brake line to the right rear caliper. I attempted to tighten the nut and the problem got worse. I removed the line and upon inspection found a tiny crack in the line level with the top of the nut that holds it to the caliper.

Two questions. First, anyone know where I can get a new brake line in the Bay area? I'd like to get this in time to run at the autocross at Marina next Sunday. Do I need a special 914 line or will any "import" line with the right fittings do?

Second, the nut that holds the line to the rear caliper is a bear to get a wrench on. My 11mm flare nut wrench can move about 10 degrees before it bumps into either the line, the caliper, or the trailing arm. Is there any elegant way to get a flare-nut wrench on this nut? Or is there a special tool I'm supposed to be using.

A good auto parts store such as NAPA should have the metric flared lines in stock. The length might be a bit long but I would replace them all for safety.

I just recently replaced all my hard lines and soft lines (car sat for seven years so I didn't want to take chances). About the only option I found was buying straight hardline that was already flared and bending it myself.

Despite everyone saying you can get it at local parts stores, I couldn't find euro-flare or "bubble" flare anywhere. I eventually found it at a european auto repair shop.

Bill,
Check with Mark at Sportech....he has lots of 914 stuff. 408-377-8055

If he doesn't have it check with my next door neighbor...you know they guy you got the 6 from that bought your RSA...he may still have some of that stuff laying around

Haha. Had to chuckle at that. I'm no help, except to wish you luck and thank you for the humor.

Here's a picture of the old line
Click to view attachment

And here's a close up showing the crack
Click to view attachment

I called 6 auto parts stores in Palo Alto and none had metric brake line in stock. Carquest, however, said they had it in Sacramento and could have it here by 3PM.

My old line was 15in long, so I bought a 12in and a 20in length from Carquest. Here's a picture of the new 12in line. The barrels on the ends have 12mm rather than 11mm nuts and are a bit longer.
Click to view attachment

After a bit of bending the 12" line fits perfectly. Here's a picture of the finished line on the car. Bleed the brakes, put the wheel back on, and its ready to autocross on Sunday.
Click to view attachment

Glad you got it fixed. Seems like Rich at HPH would have had about 500 of them "in stock".

Close, too.


KT

I should have thought of that. He probably would have had the right part too. Oh well. I'll call him next time (which I hope doesn't happen).

BTW Trekkor, do you have a new muffler setup on your /6? From a distance it looked like glass-packs connected directly to the headers.

Yes, dual cherry bomb glass packs.


KT

Probably a combo of metal fatigue and heat cycling on the line. I do mucho plumbing on lines that go from 45-175 degrees depending on the time of year etc. You'd be surprised how heat cycling metal piping takes a toll on it. Escpecially in bends and fittings.

Cool that you got it fixed. Makes me wanna replace all my 30+ year old lines now!

How did you attach these to the /6 header? Did you have to fabricate a custom flange and weld it on, or is there something available that fits?

Does this give you more HP than a supertrap or conventional muffler?

I might consider doing this for the /6 I've been working on that I might finish building one of these years.

Looking at the picture, part of the line is shiny. I wonder if it wasn't rubbing a bit on the tire (perhaps under hard cornering) causing vibration which in turn lead to a cyclic stress concentration where the tube contacted the top of the barrel which in turn lead to a fatigue failure.

I'm wondering if I shouldn't do the other three as well. Its a pretty cheap and quick fix ($5 line and 30min work).