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rchipbrown
Any thoughts on what fair market value would be for a good example of a 1974-1975 914-4 (1.8) in good to very good all original condition with about 100,000 miles?
Joe Ricard
3 - 4 K But it must have items like Fuchs, no rust FI not carbs.
to many there is a sgnificant difference between 74 and 75.
More accurate to group 73 / 74 and 75 /76 (the smog cars) with big fat bumpers.
then group 70 to 72 as the early cars.
rmital
...be careful...if your going to check out a 914, maybe someone from the board here could help or do a PPI. If you not familiar with areas to check, you could get yourself into some serious work...I know from experiance.

Especially since your on the East Coast. Teener's tend to be more challenged from the right side of the US.
Root_Werks
agree.gif See if you can find someone from the club local to help check out a car with you. Otherwise, if a 1.7 or 1.8 car is nice, could easily see $3-5k from it. wink.gif
VaccaRabite
Also, cars on this sid of the country that are in pretty good condition tend to be more expensive then cars on the left coast. The typical "no rust" east coast car would be many so-calers sawzall parts car.

Also, know your emissions laws. if you plan to do engine mods, a pre-75 car is going to be easier to do that with. But I don't know the laws for Dela-where, so I don't know what they check.

Zach
Pat Garvey
When you find a car you're REALLY interested in, let some of us from the Rust Coast know. If it's reasonably close by, I/we'd be happy to look at it & give our opinions.
clap56.gif
JPB
Take as long as you can before getting one and find one with the parts that you would want to have on the car like the type of rims, engine size, color of interior, 4or5 lug, with original bumpers, inspected and smog legal if its an issue where you are from. If you don't, you will be spending more than perhaps expected.

beer.gif I promis, once you get one, the one you really wanted will come out of nowhere! Many have gone by for me.
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