Hi Folks,

I'm slowly getting my car converted over to SDS efi, and all of the fittings on the hardware I'm using have aeroquip-style connectors. What I would like to do is install a aeroquip connector on the tank and run either braided or the new socketless lines to the back of the car in the same location as the originals.

Does anyone know if the fittings on the tank (70 914-6 if that makes a difference) are a standard size that maybe I could screw an already existing fitting to it? Does anyone know how much room there is for fuel lines where the pass through right now? IE what size O.D. hose can I use?

Any other suggestions for plumbing my fuel lines?

Sorry if I'm asking not too bright questions, I've sort of had this thrust upon me when I decided to go the FI route and I don't really know that much about it.

Thanks!

I can only say that braided lines can act like a file going through the tunnel and firewalls. I am not sure about your other questions, but over at Pelican there is a tech article about changing your fuel lines through the tunnel. Chris

I figured as much, although I was more concerned about the lines getting sawed through than any damage the lines would do to the car. I figured I'd cover it with heat shrink tubing, or the fire resistant sheathing or tape to prevent any problems caused by or damage to the lines.

Thanks for the tip on the Pelican Tech article, I didn't know it was there, they've added a lot since the last time I've really given them a look-see.

I dont know the part number... but 911 Carrera black plastic OE fuel lines work well in the 914 for fuel injection. The 911 lines are just long enough to work in a 914.

The fittings at the bottom of the tank are Metric. You would have to buy Metric- AN adapters and go from there.

A guy stopped my a few weeks back asking if I had done this exact setup. I told him I had not done this... but had thought about it.


B

Hey Buddy!!

I'm going the old big /4 route for now, but I'm running the SDS EM-4F system.

I can't help much with the fuel lines but I may be able to help with any other problems that may come up.

You may want to mail me or put me on your buddies list or something like that.

Here is some of my install:

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?act...t=ST&f=2&t=5396

Mark

we used bulkhead fittings at the front and rear of the car, worked out well

dr

Well, I'm not really married to the idea of running stainless or other non-factory lines, it's just that my fuel pump (and TB) has -10 fittings, and I don't really know enough about this stuff to know of a safe way to get a factory line to mate up with AN-style fittings.

Is there a way to do that? I'd still like to replace the fuel lines as they seem quite brittle, but if there's a way to do it using factory pieces, I'd probably feel more comfortable with that.


Thanks, from what I'd been seeing in the catalogs I'd thought that they were NPT. I'll go try and figure out what size metric they are today.

According to a past inquiry on this board the fittings are M18x1.0. This is a very uncommon thread size (due to the pitch of the threads). I failed to find any metric to NPT adapters or metric to -AN adapters.

One solution is the following... Get a couple of -8AN Aeroquip Male to Male adapters. Grind the threads of one of the ends and it will fit just inside the ID of the tank fittings. Then just JBWeld them on. Voila. insert on in both fittings if you need the return. Problem solved. JBWeld is fuel compatible!!!

I donno..I have probably been doing something wrong in the past, but I wouldn't trust JB weld for anything that important...I would either weld a bung in (although dangerous to weld on a gas tank) or try and drill and tap the spot for the correct fitting...or I bet areoquip offers something similar to a bulkhead fitting for gas tanks...

Tony

With all due respect, Karl, that just scares the snot outta me !! I just picked up the Nov Hot VW's, and there's an article about this very topic. They talk about 3 ways to do this.

1. Use an aftermarket tube and 9mm hose. We already have that from the factory!

2. Tap the inside of the fitting with a 1/4" NPT tap and use a 1/4" pipe/ AN-6 90deg fitting.

3. Weld a modified steel 3/8" pipe/ AN-8 90deg fitting after cutting off the pipe part and grinding the body to fit the tank.

After discovering that I likely won't find an adapter that will mate with the threads on the tank, this is what I was planning on doing. I was going to go have the tank dipped today in prep to have it powdercoated and then get the insides coated. After hot tanking it, shouldn't it be safe to weld?

Thanks!

I've just had my tank hot tanked and powder coated. It's not lined yet, but a slight stale fuel odor still lingers. I doubt it could reach a critical, explosive mix but I'd still use a bunch of dry ice in it to be safe.

Hopefully, some expert will weigh in with an answer.

If you need to weld on your fueltank, fill it with water first

cheers,

Jeroen

Did you do this Karl?

I don't know how many a bug fuel tank I've welded this way, 75...a hundred maybe!?!?

Yeah, I asked my buddy who welds (I'll take a course one of these days), and he said he'd fill it with water and weld it up no problem. The powdercoaters don't really want to do a used tank, so maybe I'll just rattle can it...

Thanks for the tips, and good luck with getting the car dialed in. I'm hoping to get this completed before winter, but it seems unlikely. Still have a lot to do, and then there's still lots of fuel mapping and timing.

Useless triva come back to haunt me..

Proximity sensors used in industrial manufacturing are M18 x 1 commonly.

http://www.kirbyrisk.com/allen-bradley/rac...mit/2209230.pdf

871T-N6 M18x1 to 1/2 - 14 NPT

From here is a 90 degrees 1/2 to AN whatever...

The issue with adapters or weld on AN fittings is that you loose the small stub on the inside of the tank. So all the sludge that settles to the bottom of the tank now goes down into the line and creates a filter nightmare. If you can figure out how to get the gas down the line cleanly it may be worth a look.

Perhaps...
By cutting the bent outlet off of the end but leaving the intake tube section that goes inside the tank there will still be the stock mating of the seals.

Then by having one of these welded to the aluminum M18 nut your ready to go.
http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/Pro...108&prmenbr=361
771-15689 8 AN Male $4.69

Thoughts??

-Rich

Great first post Rich..

I used those same prox. sensors 13 years ago working for Siemens.

I think that might work..


B