I am going to use an Electromotive crank triggered ignition and was wondering if any other v8 guys are using this ignition and where you mounted the coils. I would rather not put them in the trunk. Any ideas,pics?

Thanks,
Jerry

I love the webers, will they fit under the stock engine lid?

If you are removing the relay/regulator board there should be room there.

The Webers do fit but just barely. I am going to use a little shorted stacks than the ones on there now.

Wow love the stacks. I almost did that using a cross ram manifold. I am currently using the Electromotive system but it’s mounted in the trunk so no help to you. The great thing about the Electromotive system is that you can mount it anywhere you like so knock your self out. Good luck, looking forward to your progress looks like an interesting project.

inglese manifold? badass. why did you choose 4x 44mm(?) IDF's vs using IDA's?

badass either way!!!

coils mounted in trunk seems to be the norm, but you can do it on the firewall also, or if you relocated the battery, put em on either side wall in the engine bay.

M O R E P I C T U R E S P U H L E A S E

The IDF's are a little shorter and are supposed to be eaiser to tune than the IDA's This pic is before I took it apart to do the paint and bodywork. This is the mock up stage to see how things fit.

Dam that looks bad ass.

couple things - first, PLEASE tell me you are going to run some kind of filters, which means the lid won't fit anyway. Otherwise, kiss those nice engine bearings goodbye. You will be amazed how much dust is in the air even though you don't see it. Also, not that the HP is probably an issue, but changing the height of stacks and filters can make a big diff in HP. On the dyno, had an engine lose 15HP (course, that was on a sprint car motor, so big HP to begin with) just shortening the filters 1". Stack heights also have an effect. Had to shorten because wouldn't fit under the sprint car hood. Course the shorter you go, the worse the losses get.

Secondly, do you have the Electromotive already? I was going to use an Electomotive tho' didn't in the end as was unnecessary cost for what I am doing (anything under 7500rpm or 8000rpm just needs a good ignition box and distributor). Saw an HEI hold up to 7500 on the dyno without any power loss v. a different distributor, tho' coil and box can make a big difference. Latest Crane 6 and LX coil was good for 5HP on one motor over similar MSD setup on the dyno when we checked (about 1yr ago now). Might be worth it to you to save the $$ and put it elsewhere in the car

Anyway, if you already have it, then my plan was to do as implied by others, mount one coil pack where the relay board went and the other where the battery went, then relocate the battery. IMO it is best to remove the relay board altogether, splice or rewire the rear section into the loom and use a one-wire Chevy alternator. Clean setup.

Yeh what he said He really knows his stuff. I had no choice while I am running twin turbos. I needed the extra spark to make sure combustion happened at the right time under high boost. You on the other hand could get away without it. Unless you already have it. If so use it. Height of stacks and filters can and will make a big diff in HP. The is why I was considering a cross ram manifold. If you have fit issues with the filters I would suggest you go that route if you want to keep the Web set up.

IDF's also cost a hell of a lot less!!! LOL

any chance you could "deck" the manifold for clearance? it looks like a pretty stout piece, and taking a little off the top would help woth your clearance issue...

next question. can you LOWER the motor just a bit? again, everylittle bit helps.

throw some shorty stacks on there, and a good air cleaner.....

Very Cool! This location has worked well with my 3.6 conversion.

Dan

There's not as much of a clearance issue as it looks in the photo. With the engine lid on,it just touches the rear stacks. I ordered 1 inch shorter ones from Inglese this morning. They also have some nice short air cleaners. I have 2 Electromotive ignitions,both are HPV-1's. I paid less for both of them used than the price of a good distrubtor ignition setup. One reason for using the Electromotive was I did not want to cut a hole in the trunk wall for a distrubtor. Also with the Webers there is not enough room next to the right rear carb for a large dizzy like an HEI. I looked at both MSD and Crane ignitions and decided Electromotive was the simpleist and the cleanest way to go.

Very Cool! This location has worked well with my 3.6 conversion.

Dan
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That looks very nice,I will probably end up with my coils in the trunk too. It dose look like the best place for them.

I'ts a shame to cover up those wicked looking velocity stacks with boring filters! - but agree, you need some filtering on'em.
You might consider something I've seen the GT40 kit guys doing - to keep the "look" of open velocity stacks they're building an airbox around the carbs with a clear lexan top (and sides too on some of them). Rectangular filters fitted to either side of the airbox, basically making up most of the sides. Certainly more complicated than K&Ns fitted on top - but a clear view through the engine cover grill to those un-encumbered velocity stacks! You could probably leave them longer that way too.

Pretty slick set-up - IMO...
Jeff

Wow, that dose look cool. What a great solution.

I have seen these on GT-40s too and it does look bitchen for sure. If overall HP is a concern, try to have the plexi cover at least 1" above the stacks. I have seen some of those guys run them lower than that, but that will screw up the "free flow" into those stacks IMO (tho' have no exact proof of that exact situation, so take it as opinion for sure, but I know if we had less than 1" clearance between the cover and the inlet on the dyno, HP dropped big time on that sprint motor).

Cool that you got a smokin' deal on the Electromotive stuff, it is nice for sure and I don't knock it at all when the price is right