Being around aircraft during school, I like the access panels they have to get to pretty much anything (not easily always mind you)

So.....I was thinking that it would be nice to cut the entire top (or close to it) off of the central tunnel that houses the shift linkage, harness and cables, etc, etc....

Nutcerts or even Dzus fasteners could be used to keep the new panels in place.

The only two areas that I see would need to be well thought out is the shifter pad and the seat belt mounting points.

I figure TimT has done this, and if so, got pictures????

Got for Mike! My car would be a perfect candidate for this modification. The center tunnel is full of rust and impossible to get to.

getting to the rust was the main reason for this

luckly it seems to surface rust, but there is a lot of it there !!!!!!!

Mike, havent done that yet Im not sure you really gain that much by opening the tunnel up anyway. I would worry about losing some strength by removing that material though. To fix rust etc in the tunnel open it up treat the rust the weld the cut pieces back in..


They dont let me near the plasma cutter to much anymore LOL

That tunnel is super strong. I wouldnt cut it open until AFTER the cage went in it.

I thought about raising the tunnel in "Blackie".



B

I'd offen wondered why I've never seen anyone build a raised tunnel. It seems like it would be a great way to stiffen a 914. It would create a hell of a beam.

I like this idea. It would allow of all kinds of possibilities like upgraded fuel lines, oil cooler lines, V8 coolant lines, custom shiters, and so on, yet be minimally intrusive. Cut most of the tunnel off the top and weld on a simple formed sheet metal U (with access panels) the whole length and tie it into the bulkheads at either end?? Any ideas?

Thanks,

Andy

We learned the hard way not to run the coolant lines down the center tunnel of a VW. No matter what you do... it radiates too much heat into the cabin for daily driving. I'm betting the oil lines would do the same thing. I currently run oil lines on the cabin for about 12 inches on the passenger side with no shield. Just test driving it around the shop area you can feel the heat coming from the 12 inches of line exposed on the far passenger floorboard (and your in the drivers seat).

That was awhile back. I'm betting you could find line and thermal blanket type stuff that would keep things cooler. I just want to point out to people that it will be an issue that requires attention if they so chose to cut the tunnel.


B

ewh

I cut holes in my tunnel, found no rust, but it does help in cleaning it out. I can stick a shop vac hose in it and suck all the little rocks out.

Paul

So I was once kind of exploring this..
here is what I found.

The colorado cars are cutting a half dozen 4inch holes in the tunnel and then using a tool to reshape the lip of the hole...

To push it down and create a radiused lip.

This adds strength over no lip.

I was told not to cut the entire top off of the tunnel.

just one opinion
brant

i can't remember where, but i have seen a picture of someone replacing the whole tunnel by drilling out all the spotwelds and taking it out.

now, if you do that, you won't have to cut the top of the tunnel, plus you get even better access to the floor and the rest, and once you're done, just weld it back in using the original spot weld holes ...

Andy

I've been thinking about raising the center tunnel as well and I would really like to relocate that crappy shifter...
Is there any way to do this (relocate shifter) without messing up the geometry of the linkage?
Maybe I should get a cable shifter after all...?

cheers,

Jeroen

ps. where would one get one of those tools to create a radiused lip?

Why do you put rocks in there?


M

do you want to move it 'side to side' or 'fore and aft'???

I think being able to move the entire shifter forward or backwards towards the driver would be nice to have, this way one could move the shifter for different seating positions.....doing this to the shifter itself wouldn't be too hard...the difficult part would be to have a tool-less solution at the point where the shifter linkage meets up with the shift rod.

i think he wants to move "UP"

like in "raised tunnel". read the post topic before you posted?
oh wait, it's YOUR post, haha ...

Andy

I'd like the shifter higher and a bit more to the back
I always get the feeling I'm reaching for my shoe laces when shifting a 914

Moving it back wouldn't be too difficult (just shorten the linkage and relocate the shifter on the tunnel)

But how about moving it up?

cheers,

Jeroen

for 'only' $995 you can get the FabCar 935-style shifter that'll do both ...

Yeah, I had seen those...
But somehow I doubt I'll go that route

cheers,

Jeroen

Why do you want to use a crappy shifter after you relocate it? Use one of mine instead!

The thing is, it's not really too far away from the steering wheel where it is (stock), and it is usually desirable to have it close to the wheel for reduced hand movement between the rim and the shifter. With the stock positioning and reduced throw of the RennShift, I find that my hand falls right to it naturally, and I don't have to reach to hit any gears.

Plug #2: I can build custom throw reductions and upper stick length, positions so you can have it pretty much any way you want it.

Hey James,

Your shifter is on my "to-get-list"
Once I've figured out the final seat position (and some other minor issues ) I'll decide on what to do with the location of the shifter...

cheers,

Jeroen