Alright guys, been doing a little work on the '14, and its a few days away from firing up. Or, at least thats what I hope will happen!
Ordered my plug wires, and I have a new cap, rotor, plugs, and fluids.
If someone in the area has a set of wires I can test with, let me know!
I'm going to put in those new parts and just kinda, "test" it out. See what breaks, what catches on fire, and what plain doesn't work.

The car is a california car, and been in storage since my younger brother was born. Plates from 1988!
The battery was from '86. Interesting stuff on the car, but its all stock.

I'm gutting the bitch and making it a little corner-whore basically. If you look in the classifieds, you'll see my posts with some great stuff for sale, at what I think is pretty cheap too. If you're in Washington, feel free to PM me and come by and buy stuff off the car.

I have harnesses, MOMO Corse seats, and the aforementioned parts to go on it. More stuff like a roll-bar (any recommendations?) and suspension will come later.

For the engine, I'm just going to run with the stock 2.0 until I learn the car and/or blow it up .

Messix (Troy) took me out for a ride in his stock 1.8 '75 and I was grinning ear to ear after some good cornering.

For the engine, I have access to an 84 type-a crank... With the stock cylinders, that bumps me up to what, a 2.3?
I'm going to run BIG cylinders in this, and will need serious cooling. 102mm baby!

102mm jugs with the type-a crank, what would that put me to, in theory? Its late, I'm not doing math right now

Not sure what I'll do for electronics, but I'll handle that when I get some cash.
Any suggestions on cams and what I can do with the valves?

I guess I should give a little info about myself and my auto-addiction too...
I keep a log of every car I've ever been behind the wheel of, and its somewhere over 400 cars right now, but I'm Porsche all the way .
My history is with 928s, and I'm completely comfortable with Porsche wrenching and modifications. I've done a full timing belt and water pump job with new plugs and an oil change in 4 hours on a 928. I have some track time with PCA instruction in the 928 too.
My two other projects are a 951 thats getting a turbo that raises eyebrows to say the least...


Thats a standard T3 next to it, for comparison.

And a 928 S4 that has more value in stereo gear than some of our cars are worth, and it has some other goodies on it and in the works. Either a paxton or a rear-turbo will be added to the mix. Here's what it looks like present-day:



I'm on my 15th car right now, and have 6 currently, as well as a 200cc 2-stroke dirt bike. Some of my favorite past cars...




So, thats my intro!

Whatcha guys think about the 914 engine plans though? Its all speculation until all foreseeable kinks are worked out .
I have heard from Jeff that going above a 96mm bore will make cooling an issue, so thats a big concern for me. I just really like the idea of taking something stock, and morphing it into its max.
Should be interesting!!

Just read another topic, and looks like these guys at FAT make a pretty trick tin setup and monster fan... That might do the job?
I'm a water-cooler, so I may ask some stupid questions from time to time
Another thing I forgot to mention, is that this car will not be much of a street car.
Not afraid to admit that I have a lot to learn about the air-cooled world, but I learn quick...

Also, if at all possible, I build my own parts instead of buying them off the shelf or in kit form, unless its something that I just don't want to build, like tubular headers...

Alright, its bedtime...

An excellent way to gain control over engine temps with your big bore engine is to use Nickies cylinders from LN Engineering (see my sig for a link). Cast iron cylinders with that bore don't stand up well over time and the Nickies are as good or better than OEM 911 nicasil cylinders for quality, cooling and durability.
You don't need a 911 fan setup to prevent overheating IMO, but others have used it successfully.
Welcome to the club!

That 84mm crank will be a bitch to fit even using a small circle base cam. The rods have to clear the cam and some spots of the case.

An 78mm is a drop in fit and you can use type1 H beam rods, lots of good bearings available too.

Use the Nickies as with the cast iron 102's they heat up and wrap causing head leaks instantly....... Fat still does the 5th bolt head mod but why bother when you can use Nickies and not have cooling problems. Nickies are CNC aluminum cylinders coated with Nikasil like 911 cylinders. Fantastic cooling and last 200k miles atleast.

78 is not drop in. It needs clearancing of the case wbbing at the top of the case and a smaller base circle cam. 80mm with chevy journals is supposed to be an easier fit although I haven't done that one ( I'd like to though ). The current wisdom is anything over 80 is a bitch.

Dave

I thought with those new rods from LN, 78mm crank fit much better?

Concentrate on engine design more than the coling system! Any engine MUST having cooling capability, before any cooling system can be effective. The Nickies cylinders will help a lot, but you must remember that the engine combination holds the key to heat and power being generated- heat that isn't generated doesn't need to be dissipated, therfore a smarter built engine superceds the output of a monster that has a horrible combination and ends up being a heat generator.

A very common misconception is more air cools better when its the direction ad utilization of the air thats most important. Concentrating air flow and pressure to the hottest parts of the engine are what my DTM system was designed to do and it excels in it's job as it annihilates every other cooling system that it has ever been tested against. Here is a quote from my forum from an SCCA F production racer of mine. You can read more testimonials similar to this one at DTM testimonials on my forum



This customer ran the very first DTM system used in a 914, after his results I decided tomake a 914 specific arrangement and went through about 14 months (11,000 miles) of development and in car/dyno testing to get the job done. Here is a link to my R&D pages where you can see pics and read about this development
914 specific DTM development

The benefits that the 914 DTM have over any 911 system are:
- The shroud contains internal airfoils, diverters and partitions that not only direcyt the air but also help to overcome parasitic drag losses to air speed and volume. NONE of the 911 sytyle systems offer this characteristic off the shelf

- The DTM offers waterjet cut surround tin to separate engine cooling air from road heat/exhaust heat. This seals the engine bay up like a factory install and is imperative to operation. Fan inlet temperature impact head and oil temps heavily, so keeping charge air into the fan is very important as hot air doesn;t cool hot components nearly as well.

This sealing tin also reduces overall engine bay temperatures as well, this helps provide cooler air for the carbs/throttle body(s) to induct, thus making more power- cooler charge air makes big differences in power, 10 degrees of charge air reduction will generally make 6HP in my testing! here is a pic of the 914 DTM prototype in the sealed engine bay of my old 914


-The DTM soaks up way less HP than the 911 shrouds and since it keeps the engine cooler, more power is made through efficiency- cooler engines make more power with less wear. I have personally seen a 911 arrangement pull 29 HP from a 230HP engine, while I have seen a DTM pull as little as 6HP from a 235HP engine. In direct testing with 4 different drive ratios the DTM equipped engine generally pulled 1/2 as much HP from the same test engines ass it's 911 style counterparts.

- The DTM is cheaper to but and replace components for.. This is because it uses Type 1 cooling fans and alternator instead of 911 units. For the cost of a 911 alternator you can replace most of the DTM. Initial expenses area bout the same, the DTM is about 20% less up front according to what system you go with 911 style.

So, enough of that... The fact is that smarter will always exceed bigger. The DTM is smart, Nickies are smart and your best bet is to do plenty of research before buying the first damn part!

BTW- I have a 10:1 PUMP GAS 2316cc combo that makes over 200HP on the street, very reliably. Listen to last weeks radio show to hear the customers impression of the engine. This engine is also available in engine kit form to be assembled by you.

I'll leave you with one statement:

"Its all in the combo"

BTW, "84 type-a crank" sounds like it might be a Bug part. The VW Type I engine has essentially zero parts that interchange with our Type IV engines. If it really is a Type I part, you can't use it in your engine anyway.

--DD

Yeah, I was wondering what the hell the "A" suffix was all about..

Like i said, read, read and read and then listen to the radio shows and start buying parts that work and are compatible. 1/2 of the parts you can buy from various vendors are not interchangeable!

Well I certainly have a lot of research to do in the VW/Porsche arena, and that crank seemed suspect to me... The guy might be confused
Raby, your cooling setup was the one that I had my eye on, I just didn't know who made it!
Very trick setup!!

I'm gathering a parts list together slowly, for later assembly. PM what your setup runs if you could.

Thanks for the info!

Read here
www.aircooledtechnology.comcooling.htm

The 914 kit is in the 900 buck range for the complete kit..