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914rick42
Hi. Am new to 914club and would like some feedback. I want to build a 2.7 six and have my eye on a long block on ebay.
Magnesium or aluminum cases: one over the other?
Thanks,
Rick
Crazyhippy
Unless you are searching for the absolute max amount of power possible (doubt it, or you would be looking @ bigger motors), either type of caser will be fine. Talk to your engine builder and get his personal oppinion though.

On the street, you will never be able to see the difference.

BJH
bd1308
aluminum is stronger than magnesium, but i guess mag with case savers is good too. cant easily weld magnesium.
Evill Ed
I didn't think the 2.7's came with aluminum cases, I thought the aluminum started with the 3.0L.
I have a megnesium case in my 911S. Go to a reputable shop and have them Timesert the head stud threads and you are good to go. Use good head studs, I used 993 studs. The 2.7's when built correctly are strong reliable engines.

Ed
boxstr
Rick If you need a 2.7 to build I have a complete ready to assemble motor. PM me for more details and pics.
Craig C. Laughlin
Sammy
JP is one of our resident experts when it comes to building a nice 2.7, he's the one you need to talk to. just watch your fingers wink.gif
turboman808
Seems to be a pretty good motor so far. Mines at 240hp and I think that is about as high as she will go.

I think the important thing is to get it shuffle pined and time certed. After that it's suposed to run forever.
Aaron Cox
aluminum cases are sought after the early racer guys... bring lots of money...

apparently, you need the sandcast AL cases for the screamer motors (8-9000 rpm short strokers) or you will walk the crank right out of the mag case.....
anthony
Rick, so what is the attraction to the 2.7? They, of course, have the headstud pulling issue with the mag cases. Why not start with a 3.0, 3.2, or a 3.6?
Sammy
Magnesium cases are lighter than the aluminium ones, that's about the only plus.
nbscooters
QUOTE(anthony @ Sep 29 2006, 12:26 PM) *

Rick, so what is the attraction to the 2.7? They, of course, have the headstud pulling issue with the mag cases. Why not start with a 3.0, 3.2, or a 3.6?



Personally, if it was my project, I wouldnt use the 2.7 because its a horrible motor. I would go with either a 3.0 or 3.2 for the conversion just because its easier to add upgrades. One of the best 911 motors was the bullet-proof 3.0, as long as it had the tensioner upgrade. They should also be easier to find in terms of searching for the right motor.
Sammy
Ooooh, where's that popcorn emoticon thingie?

The 2.7 can be an incredible motor if put together right.
The 2.7 RS MFI was a screamer, I'd love to have one or those. Torque, hp, it was the whole package.

The only justification to say the stock 2.7 is a horrible motor is that it had a tendency to pull head studs. Once it has timeserts installed and the thermal reactors removed, it should be just as bullet-proof as a 3 liter.

BTW, I'm not biased. i have a 3 liter that's putting out close to 300 hp.
J P Stein
Hay, I got my 2.7L cheep. I would have rather had a 3.0L as the case is mo better.

The "trick" with a 2.7L is finding a good case. They warp when they get hot and many of them have....specially CA. motors. Some are OK, some can be drag honed and some need to be line bored.....the latter gets expensive. They all need case savers & 24 Divilar studs (this last bit is my opinion)

That said, the 2.7s are less expensive to hot rod.
Nikasil cylinders are more affordable.....these are need to hot rod all the 2.7-3.2 engines. E Solex, or S cams (used) are widely available for the 3 journal cam towers.
Keep em' cool and they work fine. Mine has been reliable as a brick and I've been beatin' on it for 5-6 years.

The 2.7-3.2 all have their failure areas....and all have solutions. The trick is to build around these.
pete-stevers
i have never built a motor ...but having said that, with reading, why not buy a 3.0 to start with, as it is said to be a much better base....
brant
I don't think the 2.7 is a horrible motor either.
It can be an awesome motor if you fix the common weak points.
(the 3.2 has its weakpoints too)

a 2.5 or a 2.8 would be an awesome motor...

I sometimes wish my 2.0 was built on the mag 7R case so as to loose another 20lbs.

brant
J P Stein
Prorsche has never built a "horrible" air cooled motor...cept maybe the T-4 laugh.gif
Aaron Cox
QUOTE(J P Stein @ Sep 30 2006, 03:04 PM) *

Prorsche has never built a "horrible" air cooled motor...cept maybe the T-4 laugh.gif


stick.gif !!!
914rick42
QUOTE(pete-stevers @ Sep 30 2006, 02:15 PM) *

i have never built a motor ...but having said that, with reading, why not buy a 3.0 to start with, as it is said to be a much better base....


Hi Pete,
Why is the 3.0 better?
And cheaper? Isn't it a newer and more expensive engine?
Thanks,
Rick
914rick42
QUOTE(J P Stein @ Sep 30 2006, 02:03 PM) *

Hay, I got my 2.7L cheep. I would have rather had a 3.0L as the case is mo better.

The "trick" with a 2.7L is finding a good case. They warp when they get hot and many of them have....specially CA. motors. Some are OK, some can be drag honed and some need to be line bored.....the latter gets expensive. They all need case savers & 24 Divilar studs (this last bit is my opinion)

That said, the 2.7s are less expensive to hot rod.
Nikasil cylinders are more affordable.....these are need to hot rod all the 2.7-3.2 engines. E Solex, or S cams (used) are widely available for the 3 journal cam towers.
Keep em' cool and they work fine. Mine has been reliable as a brick and I've been beatin' on it for 5-6 years.

The 2.7-3.2 all have their failure areas....and all have solutions. The trick is to build around these.


Hi J.P.,
Thanks for the info. I need to do some homework before I get in too deep. Maybe it wouldn't be bad to start with a 4 cylinder.
Rick
914rick42
QUOTE(nbscooters @ Sep 30 2006, 01:04 PM) *

QUOTE(anthony @ Sep 29 2006, 12:26 PM) *

Rick, so what is the attraction to the 2.7? They, of course, have the headstud pulling issue with the mag cases. Why not start with a 3.0, 3.2, or a 3.6?



Personally, if it was my project, I wouldnt use the 2.7 because its a horrible motor. I would go with either a 3.0 or 3.2 for the conversion just because its easier to add upgrades. One of the best 911 motors was the bullet-proof 3.0, as long as it had the tensioner upgrade. They should also be easier to find in terms of searching for the right motor.


I think I am biased because I only have talked to one racer and not about a street engine with longevity. Thanks for the info though.
Rick
Joe Bob
A 3.0s only cheaper if you don't have to rebuild it.

The 3.0 didn't pull studs like the 2.7 and it didn't have thermal reactors that cooked the motors.....3.0s DID have a nasty habit of snapping the bottom Dilivar (SP) studs.....but otherwise were a great engine.

Up until I bought this 914...the scariest fastest 914 I ever drove was a built 2.7 with carbs....
Allan
QUOTE(mikez @ Oct 2 2006, 11:06 PM) *

Up until I bought this 914...the scariest fastest 914 I ever drove was a built 2.7 with carbs....


How could you tell? You only drove it from the front of your house to the garage. w00t.gif
eaglsct
I am looking at building a 914-6 for SCCA autocrossing.

Looking at F Prepared class, I read it as the 2.7/2.8 are the largest motors for that class.

That would be my reason for building a 2.7.

Am I correct in the SCCA rules reading?

Ray
J P Stein
QUOTE(eaglsct @ Oct 4 2006, 01:16 PM) *

I am looking at building a 914-6 for SCCA autocrossing.

Looking at F Prepared class, I read it as the 2.7/2.8 are the largest motors for that class.

That would be my reason for building a 2.7.

Am I correct in the SCCA rules reading?

Ray


Ayup.
2.700 L X .75 =2025 Lbs
Bring monies. biggrin.gif
Duffster

Ayup.
2.700 L X .75 =2025 Lbs
Bring monies. biggrin.gif
[/quote]



agree.gif
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