Where do you get hinge shims?

How wide "should" the gaps be on a '74?

How do you adjust the latch, yeah I see the four screws?

I made my own out of bodywork tin. I cut it the same triangular shape as the hinge itself but 1/8" smaller so it don`t show and drilled the bolt holes.
Bodywork tin is 16 guage so using more than two under the same hinge starts to make a wide gap between the door and the front fender

Good luck!

Steph

Thanks Steph!

I have issues with this too...I took it to a body shop to check out the frame and also...he told me to take the doors off...and just spen a lot of time and get really creative...my problem is that my hinges (the part that attaches to the door) are studs and not bolts...my cap between my front fender and door is like a canyon and the one in the back is rubbing, and there's no way I'm repainting my car to have it rub back off...so in order to move the door farward he said to take the door off, and then put the hinge pin back in, and then tap the part of the hinge that's on the car forward for a while with a rubber mallet of block of wood...he said it takes a ton of time and refitment so that's why he charges a lot to do shit like that to people's cars! so stay in the game

All 914 doors are adjustable on the body only as the hinge is riveted to the door as mentionned. If you have a big door-fender gap there are good chances that the car was involved in a accident and the did a poor repair job. I would take some measurements to see first if the tub is fairly straight. You can find the proper dimensions HERE.

By memory the spec for the gaps is 6mm close to 1/4 of an inch. Old German cars are mainly like that so don't expect a Honda or Toyota door gap.

Also another thing to consider is that these cars were hand made, so there may be some discrepencies.

I have found the best way to straighten your door gaps is to repair the longs

If you are having a major issue with your doors not lining up with the body, your car might have been in a bad collision, or you have major rust issues beneath the surface. Granted over time the doors may sag a bit, but if the door is hitting the body it might be time to go around the underside of the car and look for a more serious problem.

never ...

do what any *good* bodyshop does ...
Andy

and that is...?

Straighten the frame on a good machine with a good tech. Sounds easy but it isn't plus $$$.

I have the Engman kit installed, longs are fine...

The gaps aren't bad, I just want them consistent...

provided your body is straight and doesn't have "custom" bondo body lines around the doors (ask me how i know ), here's what i learned from a top-notch body shop:

open door, grab the end of the door and pull/push *slowly* until the door lines up perfectly!

basically, you massage the metal of the front door jamb until the door is lining up perfectly, using the door itself as a lever.
most of the time, if there's no body damage involved, sagging or otherwise out of alignment doors are a result of people putting their own weight on the doors when they're open, effectively bending the front door-jamb.
all you have to do is to un-bend it, using the same "method" ...

has always worked great for me!
Andy

PS: btw. same goes for the windshield hoop. people tend to grab the top corner of the windshield to "lift" themselves out of the car, thus bending the frame down.
bodyshop fix: bend it back the other way.

PPS: one thing the owner of said bodyshop told me: we never do this with the customer around.
they tend to freak out when they see how we do the "straightening".

A friend who retired from a Ford plant once told me that that is how they did it on new vehicles (it may have been trucks) on the assembly line!

Horking on the door is the way our fleet mechanics align ours. GM even sells a tool so you hork even harder...

Those are excellent techniques!
Is said shops initials include "Y"?

Yeah Man ...
Andy