Symptom: Rough idle when cold. Starts OK without press the gas pedal but dies if I don't give it gas. Runs/drive fine but when I come to a stop, I have to use my right foot for both the gas and brake or it will die. When it finally get warm it runs just fine/normal.
What I've done so far: With motor running cold at idle, I pulled the hose off of the intake side of the auxilary air regulator (AAR) and motor speeds up. This made me think that the AAR is bad so I removed it to see if it was stuck closed and it was not. Cylinder head temperature sensor resistance measurement checked out OK. Thats all I had time for... Any ideas as to what to check next?
Thanks in advance,
Rob
Full Version: D-Jet FI troubleshooting help...
Basic Fi trouble shooting.
Check fuel pressure.
Check for vacume leaks. (if your hoses are old just replace them. Its not to expensive.
Check timing.
Personally I would guess vacume leak. Good luck
Check fuel pressure.
Check for vacume leaks. (if your hoses are old just replace them. Its not to expensive.
Check timing.
Personally I would guess vacume leak. Good luck
try to come to the Teener Tuesday so we all can stand around and figure out whats up...We love this kinda thing.
Probably the AAR valve isn't working right.
Cold air should pass thru it, idle speed is 1500-1800 rpms
Hot AAR is completely closed as no air passes thru it.
Idle is set HOT, meaning having run for 20 mins and then adjusted 950.
Usually someones adjusts the idle speed halfass cold and goofs everything up.
Probably the AAR valve isn't working right.
Cold air should pass thru it, idle speed is 1500-1800 rpms
Hot AAR is completely closed as no air passes thru it.
Idle is set HOT, meaning having run for 20 mins and then adjusted 950.
Usually someones adjusts the idle speed halfass cold and goofs everything up.
QUOTE(Bleyseng @ Oct 2 2006, 12:16 PM) 
try to come to the Teener Tuesday so we all can stand around and figure out whats up...We love this kinda thing.
Probably the AAR valve isn't working right.
Cold air should pass thru it, idle speed is 1500-1800 rpms
Hot AAR is completely closed as no air passes thru it.
Idle is set HOT, meaning having run for 20 mins and then adjusted 950.
Usually someones adjusts the idle speed halfass cold and goofs everything up.
The Buzz Inn correct? I'll try to make it but the motor will be warm then and you won't see it in failure mode.
The AAR is open when cold... The idle may be set a bit low.
If I can add my 2 cents. Mine did the same thing, and if now idles great since changing, triger points, coil, condenser & points and plugs. Sorry, I changes all these things at the same time so I can't tell which was the magic bullet but I no longer worry at stop lights about the thing dying on me.
I had problems with the AAR earlier this week.
If the AAR worked fine before, it could be that the fuse went out. Check the relay board for the 25 amp fuse. If its not the fuse, it could be that you arent grounded to the motor properly. The AAR must be screwed in and secured otherwise, it will never close after its hot.
If the AAR doesnt close, supply 12 volts to the terminal and make sure the base is grounded. Then try blowing air through the AAR.
If the AAR worked fine before, it could be that the fuse went out. Check the relay board for the 25 amp fuse. If its not the fuse, it could be that you arent grounded to the motor properly. The AAR must be screwed in and secured otherwise, it will never close after its hot.
If the AAR doesnt close, supply 12 volts to the terminal and make sure the base is grounded. Then try blowing air through the AAR.
QUOTE(nbscooters @ Oct 2 2006, 02:36 PM)
...Check the relay board for the 25 amp fuse. ...
If that fuse blows, the fuel pump won't run. Unless someone has re-wired the car, that is. The AAR is on the same circuit as the fuel pump.
--DD
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