OK, got basically everything lined up and ready to go, but before i start on this thing does anyone have any suggestions or tips on stuff to look out for and proper procedure on stuff?

what i need to know for sure is the procedure for bleeding these things bc they have 2 bleeder valves.

THis is the first time in about 25 years that these things are getting replaced. I will be doing the front wheel bearings as well.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

THanks,
Billy

Be more specific on what you plan to do.

Then we can tell you what you are doing wrong.

After doing the 944 T calipers i found the best way to get fluid through the system was to open all the bleed screws & gently pump the master cylinder untill fluid flows out of each valve.

As the valve overflows go close it, then repeat till all closed.

Then bleed system as normal. RR, LR, RF, LF.

Get a set of speed bleeders!!! Once installed, you will want to bleed your brakes just for the fun of it.


Pelican Parts has a good tech page on the whole mess.

speed bleeders are the shizzle!!

Had 2 speed bleeders seize up on me. No thanks.

The blue stuff is nice to work with.

Ignore the lower bleeders, unless the system has been drained of fluid or you have new/rebuilt caliper on there. If so, you can use them until you get fluid out of them, then only use the top bleeders. Remember, air rises, even through brake fluid--so you'll never get all the air out of the calipers using the bottom bleeders.

Uhh, not that I know that from personal experience or anything.

--DD

Don't open all the bleeders unless you have speed bleeders and someone to help

you. Open the top bleeder after you have acuired a person to help you, if you

don't don't have SBleeders. Pump pedal slow so you don't turn one bubble into

a million bubbles, open bleeder. Let person helping you know to let you know

when the pedal is to the floor,have him ( or her ) hold the pedal down until

you have tightened the bleeder. Continue this procedure until fluid is clear.

Rear is the same but you will need to bleed the pro valve first.

ok.

Im putting in a new set of discs and wheel bearings along with pads.

I am familiar with a normal way of bleeding brakes on a car that only has 1 bleeder per caliper. Not exactly sure what to do with 2. What is a pro valve?

Proportoning valve. Located on the back firewall. I wouldn't bleed this until you have all the brakes bled. Then if you still have a spungy feeling or wierd things happen crack and bleed the valve.

get ready for the rear venting clearence adventure. it's a bit daunting the first time out. i broke down and bought a set of long, metric, T handle allen wrenches at harbor freight. cheap and much easier than using a 3/8" hex socket on an extention. iirc, the bird article has it backwards as to the direction you turn the adjusters respective to unboard and outboard.

by freeze up, do you mean plugged or unable to back them off the 1/4 turn so they allow flow? i've never had any problems with mine. if they were installed in the bottom ports i could see debris inside the caliper fouling them.

k

Get new rubber lines.
Bleed as normal.
Leave the bottoms alone as DD mentioned.
Drive (hard, panic stops, rough roads, etc.)
Bleed rears again.

thanks all for the info.

I will see what i come up with when i start tomorrow. Hopefully it wont drive me too nuts.

It will...

Can you only get speedbleeders online?

ok, got the car up in the air and the wheels off. Also have a Tech Tips 700 and a Haynes manual laying here to kind of follow if i get stuck on something.

I have been hearing to replace those rubber hoses. Now i see what you all are talking about. Do they sell SS lines for those? or do i have to go back with just rubber. The SS lines would greatly improve the system for sure.

Any other tips before i go and start ripping things apart???

thanks again for your help.

Not really. The Cap'n can weigh in but... let's just say it's best to replace with the rubber lines. Unless this is a race car that you inspect constantly, I'd go with rubber.

That being said... there's plenty of SS lines available. I can stock and sell them but I don't.

Have a proper brake line wrench. Treat the rear hard lines with all the care you can. They are NLA and you'll have to make new ones if you flub them up. I like to use a MAPP torch on the fittings and slowly wiggle everything loose. BE VERY CAREFUL not to heat the tube too much and then turn the wrench... a MAPP torch can make those lines like butter. The trick is to get the torch to break apart some of the bonds that exist. Torch - Let it cool a bit - Wiggle making sure the fitting and the brkae line are not bonded - remove fitting. Do this on all your lines. Don't worry about the rubber as you'll be getting new.

The rear rubber lines absolutely SUCK to remove. The trick is: Cut the hose by the upper fitting and use a socket with an extension to get it off. It's still a pain getting the wrench on the hard line but this solves 1/2 the problem.

If you don't have the proper brake line wrench, leave the house now and go to PEP Boys or NAPA or... and get a proper 11mm x 10mm flare wrench. Less than $10 clams and you'll be glad you did.

that should just about cover it. pick up some pbblaster when you're at napa or the peppers. then page eric shea on the white courtesy phone if you get marroned. the hard lines like to fight you when going back into the calipers sometimes. be patient and have a gentle touch.

k

what they said and you can't go wrong.

As previously mentioned, learn how the back brakes and the venting work. You must put the caps on the inside back on or you will lose the adjusters.

I found the caps on the rear calipers completely frozen on so I had to remove the caliper to chisel them off. You may want to get some of the aftermarket steel caps that Pelican sells ahead of time.

sounds great eric. thanks for the advice.

I started the project, dont have new rubber lines currently. Even though im not racing the car right now it would be a nice upgrade to the SS lines. I run SS lines on everyother car i own currently.

PB blaster by the case at my house = check
Line wrench = check
torch = check

Inner wheel bearings that dont wanna be the right size = check.

should be getting the proper wheel bearings in tomorrow morning, then i can finish up the fronts. Would like to get to the rears before i go and pickup the new bearings.

i'll let ya'll know what plays out.

_billy

k. got the new bearings and the front is together and ready to be bled.

Goin on to the rears right now, but one question i had for all of you 914 lovers out there.

How do i get the dust cap back on without killing the thing???

I keep hitting it with a rag over a hammer and the thing wont go all he way on flush like it was before.

I did get new discs if this helps at all...

Thanks again,
Billy

First use a rubber mallet, should not take anymore than a few wacks.

Check and see if your cotter pin is in the way or debree of any kind.

Use a caliper or even a small nail will work, insert next to the castel nut and

check the depth than compair that to the lip on the dust cap. I have heard of

this before on a front brake job with new rotors, their solution was to get new

caps from Eric Shea.

sweet. i will see how much they be.

I got the car done. seems as though the front driver caliper is frozen. And im an idiot and forgot to adjust the rear venting, so they dont wanna let go either.

will see if i can remedy that and actually drive the car tonite!

Pedal feels a million times better though!!!