QUOTE(9146986 @ Oct 8 2006, 07:11 PM)
Yea, me too Tod. From my experience a restored car will never see the elements and use that got it in the condition to require pan replacement.
Good primer, good seam sealer, and good paint should do just fine.
I think you've missed my point (& that of 1970 Neun Vierzhen). This car is going to have an expensive FULL restoration from a well-known shop in the Cleveland area. It WILL be a concours restoration of an extremely nice 914, but with some age problems. The resto is going to cost major bucks!
Like almost all surviving midest cars, this wast rustproofed from the start. Yes, it would be perfect to have a full yellow bottom, but at what additional cost? Pan is the only thing being replaced. Rest of car is solid. Exterior to be stripped to bare & any flaws fixed. The new pan will be galvanized & painted, but the undersides of the fenders will still contain rustproofing. Additional cost of removing all that, prepping & respraying would probably run the total up another 2-3K.
Since he plans to continue driving the car & will ultimately be caught in the rain, or on a gravel road, I recommend Shutz'ing the belly pan & rubbing some solvent into the rest of the "coated" areas to re-activate it. This stuff has protected the car for 35+ years & only needs to be softened up to continue doing its job.
The West World may think that the East World is out of it for having this stuff on our cars, but we have rain, salt & sand to deal with & this stuff has saved many a 914.
If you haven't lived with one of these rust-prone babies for 30+ years in the East of Rust belt, you can't understand. This is one area we give up to originality.
Iron oxide dust on the garage floor didn't come from the factory.