I got her to fire up.

I did a bunch of trouble shooting and came up with nothing thought it had something to do with the relay board but it checked out fine ( now the bottom of the board needs to be resealed).

Frustrated with what was going on, I turned the ignition switch to start it and BINGO, dash light came on fuel pump ran and she fired.

I have to hold the key to keep it running, if I let it back to the run position it will die. Now I am wondering if this had something to do with my miss problem all along. when it fired it went to the fast idle and seemed to run good.

Does it sound like I need a new ignition switch???

That would be my first guess. Pull and test with VO meter.

Or cheat. Buy a can of spray 'tuner cleaner' at Radio Shack. You can use WD40 or such, but that can leave a film. Insert the tube in the ignition switch, spray away, then insert and wiggle the key a few times. I used this temporary fix about a year ago and it's still OK. Old car crud??

Good answer, worth a try. Use tuner bath.

Howard is neglecting to tell you we had to p[ush start his car in Moab....

But if it's a contact problem, the spary should "fix" it short term, and will let you know if that is where the problem actually lays so it can be fixed properly later.

BJH

Yet another problem, Hip One. VR had gone south. Only putting out 11.9v. Popped in a new one the slitster had, 13.9, starter spins to red line now
PS. I can read my gauges at night now!

I pulled the ignition switch completly out. The elec. part of the switch is fine(it looks new). I did find alot of dry gook in the key/ tmcler part. I ran som w/d 40m through it and used compressed air on it. it seems to be ok .

What is the best lubricant to use before I reinstall?

How much of a PITA is it to take the tumbler apart?

That depends. Are you a locksmith?

I would not take the tumbler apart, but that is just me. I don't take somehting apart that I don't fully understand, and I don't fully understand lock tumblers.

Zach

There is a thread by Scott Thacher here and an artical on the Bird Board on the cylenders. It's easy and there are only 4 waffers sizes. After I read these articals I keyed 3 cars alike.
:PERMAGRIN: Joe

thank's I will take a look. If it's not that hard I might as well fix it while it's out.

I sudjest graphit, it is a dry lube so it won't collect dust/dirt and does not turn

into paste.

I found the prob.. I reinstalled everything and it it did the same thing. I took the ign. switch back out and took the plastic peice apart.

what I found was that it got hot due to the short and melted the plastic and the metal contact moved away. when the key is turned to the on posistion it does not make contact.

here's a pic of the throttle cable