I've already got H4's, but in the process of evaluating a dim headlight I notice I may not have the suggested components. Section 3.2-2/3 of the Electrical manual says something about replacing the black dust boot on the back of the bulb with a red one, and using only a polyamide-colored 3-pole connector instead of the standard translucent bulb connector.
Are these parts(red boot, polyamide connector) truly necessary, does anyone know the part numbers, and what's a good source for these?

Only necessary for higher wattage bulbs - what are you using?

Bad ground. Fix it. The Cap'n

I'm running H4 90/130s on my '70 with an otherwise bone stock electrical system (well, I do have a blade fusebox, but that doesn't really matter). I haven't had any problems. I'd have to agree with the Cap'n on THIS one.
Mark D.

I've sorted through the dim headlight issue. The problem actually followed the light, so a new bulb fixed that, but that's another thread. I have 100/80 H4 bulbs currently, so am wondering about the factory recs about the dust boot and electrical connector. Also, anyone know the difference between an H4 and a 9003 bulb? Will a 9003 bulb give the proper light pattern in an H4 housing?

9003 is just a different designation system for the H4 bulb.

You may have issues over of a period of time with the 100 watt bulbs and the plastic connector depending upon how much you use your lights. Check it periodically for discoloration and replace with the nylon type if needed.

hmmm

i was told anything over 60w bulbs required relays.....

you ran 80/100 bulbs on stock wiring?

isnt the design such that unless you wire in relays with higher wattage bulbs that all that current is flowing through the switch which WILL fail prematurely ( after 30 years)

I agree. Actually, I like to add relays even for stock wattage bulbs.

james,

why dont you share the procedure for wiring in relays so everyone else will know too

So Rich, you're saying the current draw required by the higher wattage bulbs will fry the switch over time? I'm not sure if my 100/80 bulbs were through the stock wiring or if a PO had wired them through relays. I haven't dug that deep into it.

That might be a good task for me next week - I think a new thread would be appropriate.

In addition to causing grater oxidation in the switch, there is a loss of power as well. I ran higher wattage bulbs with my stock system but began to worry after a while so I installed relays as well and it does ~seem~ brighter. I remember reading in threads here and Pelican that there is a definite point at which the capacity of the switch to carry the load is really a limiting factor. I'm guessing it makes a lot of heat after that...