Bring you up to speed: I recently have had problems with engine run on after the key is turned off. Along with this the generator and oil light comes on as soon as you connect the battery. Everything electrical works but the alternator does appear to be putting out a higher voltage than I remember 14-15 volts at idle).

I came across this blurb on the bird board alternator troubleshooting:
Alternator indicator lamp is on with key off.
Alternator has failed, and diodes have shorted out. Replace alternator and in the meantime, disconnect battery to prevent complete draining of the battery.

After a frustrating day ripping my car apart looking for bad grounds etc, this sounds like my problem is with the alternator. Would a bad relay board cause this?

Which alternator/regulator would you buy?

How big of a job is it? The reason I ask, I have a spare 2.0 in the garage with alternator and complete relay board. Is it worth the time to see if it works?
Sorry for all the questions...I just don't want to start replacing parts hoping for a fix.
Thanks,
Mark

its a big enough job where I would go ahead abd buy the best alternator you can afford, bc you DONT want to do it twice.

Myth is that one can install a alternator with the engine in the car, but I cant picture being able to access both sides of the tin with the engine in a 914. If I were doing this job, I would just drop the engine.

leave the motor in the car! All you need to remove is a few pieces of heater tubing on the drivers side. Allen bolt on top, and hex bolt on bottom. Get a Bosch rebuilt.

Good luck

I did mine in the car. Pain in the butt but it is doable. I bought a rebuilt Bosch for $110 at the auto parts store. The hardest part is you got to do everything by touch because you can not see much since it is all tucked away.Good luck!

Thanks...sounds like the jury is still out on this one. I know what you mean...sometimes it's just easier to bit the bullet. My next 914 is going to have a zipper that opens it up like a sardine can.


Sounds like you have done this...I'm more encoraged to try it...


Pain in the butt, but it is doable--sounds like I better practice being tripple jointed and mechanic by brail.

Thanks everyone...should I be worried that the last too posts end in 'Good Luck.'
Mark

It can be done without removing the engine; I've done the job several times on my car.

http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/9...alt_replace.htm

--DD

Pretty easy for me, luck I guess. It was the first "real" project for me many years ago. Just make sure you tighten the bolts all the way. I didnt or thought I did, and was in the middle of one of the worst places in Atlanta with the lower nut missing adn the other nut about off. With a wrench and a mom and pop hardware store 2 blocks away, I got it done. I'm sure I hold the record to remove and reinstall an alternator.

My first time took 1.5 hours and I replace the main power wire. Have fun and it is dirty.

BB

good grief! Droping the engine is way more consuming and involved. I should take pictures the next time I do this (hopefully it will be a few days, hehh). Taking out the cooling tin is mostly just dirty. Jack the car up pretty high in back, WEAR EYE PROTECTION (oh this is just a suggestion bc I'm not really stupid enough to get crap in my eyes THREE times, oh - well, FOUR TIMES), spray all those tin screws with penetrant and wait a day. Next day, WEAR EYE PROTECTION (your insurance won't be upset I promise), usea godd beefy flathead scewdriver to take the one screw out the J-tube, a small wrench is needed to disconnect the heater valve actuation cable on the top part of the heater valve (its a barrel nut- like 8 mm), then the heater flapper valve assembly itself is held in by two screws on a flat clamp like attatchment at the fan housing and two screws holding a curved clamp like attachment that pinches down on the heat exchanger. Once that is out of the way, look up in there at the alternator. Disconnect the wiring harness plugging into the back. Loosen up the bottem bolt of the alt bracket (15 mm maybe). Climb out, wash up , have a beer, etc. Then come back and working from on top on the drivers side, in the engine compartment, take off the plastic oval cover down on the cooling tin near the firewall to expose the alt belt adjustment part of the bracket. It uses a big hex wrench and a 15 mm too. Loosen it to take off the belt, then take that bolt all the way out. Go back under, finish losening that bottom bolt, and toke the bolt out (you might have to whack it to get it loose). Be ready at the end ot the bolts travel bc tht alternatore is heavy! Now, as theysay in the books and bc I'm tired of typing "installation is a reverse of the procedure". G'head, it isn't as big a deal as an engine drop.

I replaced my alt with the engine in the car in about 45 min. That was my first time doing it, but I don't have heater tubes or heat exchangers to deal with either.

Having taken the engine out of my car 3 times in the past six months, I can tell you it is waaaaaay easier change the alt in the car than drop the whole engine out to do it.

I would also consider replacing your voltage regulator before changing the alt out.

If you go to FLAPS to get an alternator compare it to the old one VERY carefully. I bought one that had a notched back end. There was no way for the back cover to seal. I returned it and ended up going to the local bug performance shop for an alternator. They had the correct one.

As stated above, it is a dirty and blind job, but not too difficult. Removing the heater ducting gives the room you need to work.

You guys/gals are awesome![b]
Thank you so much...I'm ready to get greasy!