I'm having a problem starting my 914. I've done some research in the garage forum and come to the conclusion that the ignition switch may be faulting on me.

When the car is cold and I turn the key to turn the car on, the starter will engage. When the motor is warmed up and I go to turn the key the starter will not engage.

I am wondering if this could be a faulty starter, but i'm guessing it could be the ignition switch. Also, i'm not really sure where the ignition switch is.

Any help or explanation on where the ignition switch is would really be great.

Thanks

First things first. Clean all the connections, especially the grounds. It sounds like it's more likely to be the dreaded hot start problem, rather than the switch.

The are all on the end of the key ... kinda ..... replacement is dependent upon the year of car you have.

1.) early .... a real pain in the ass

2.) late ..... still a pain in the ass.

What year is it?

It's a 1975 914 with a 1.8.

Today for example, the car started right up and got me to work. Once I got to work (good 1/2hr drive) I turned the car off, went to start it and it started for me fine. Figure the car is good and warmed up. But last friday the car wouldn't start after it was warmed up. Think it could be a intermitant problem with the starter?

Listen for the fuel pump when it won't crank. You may hear it when you turn the key.
I have the same type car, and occasionally the same problem. The car starts fine if
I jump the solenoid. I don't think it's my switch or the starter. I'm beginning to
suspect the connections on the relay board.

Jeff

The L-jet fuel pump runs only when air is passing through the airflow meter, so the engine has to be cranking or running. The Cap'n

Back to Mark's suggestion. Do it all. The reason I asked what year- be sure to remove the passenger seat. Under the seat is the seatbelt interlock relay (it's there on '75's). It's in a place that can get damp, and the two BIG yellow wires that plug onto it go to the ignition switch and to the starter. Assuming your seatbelt interlock is disconnected, unplug them both from the relay, cut them, strip them, and hardwire them together- preferably solder- and insulate WELL with tape and/or shrink sleeving.

If you're still enjoying the interlock feature, then unplug them, CLEAN the connectors thoroughly, and plug them back in.

Clean the big yellow wire connection at the starter. Take the nut off, remove the lug, wire brush everything, and reassemble. I always sandwich any electrical lug between two internal-tooth starwashers to ensure a solid electrical connection. But then I'm a jerk about this stuff.

Be sure your battery terminal clamps are clean at the battery- take apart and wire brush- and the heavy battery cable at the starter as well.

Have your battery tested to ensure it will hold a full charge.

Give it a try for a while. If that doesn't do it, you may need to consider the controversial hot start relay bandaid.


Jim

How come my pump runs with the key turned to start then??

I had a bad switch. It took me a while to diagnose and I went through the “hot start problem list” several times before I figured it out. I posted a few times with this problem because the hot start problem is documented very well here and I found very little on bad starter switches. Having said all that I think you are describing a “hot start” issue and not a problem with a starter switch.

I’d eliminate all other possibilities before trying the starter switch.

The ground for the engine is on top of the transmission. Make sure the connections are clean and the nuts are tight. This is the first thing to check when following Mark and Jim's advise. It could even lead to the dreaded hot start issue directly.

Also search for "hot start problem" and read the threads like this Hot Start Thread

Hot start problems are practically a cliche with the 914. So much so Pelican Parts and all the other vendors sell a "hot start kit" that puts a relay in line. You will find most (many) consider these a band aide and you need to fix the real problem.

The ignition switch really is not affected by the temperature of the engine/starter. Now once it won’t start cold or even after it has cooled then it may be the switch.

I think the hot start issue is a heat saturation issue, so I don’t think you have eliminated it. The engine/starter is cooling while the car is running. Shut off the car and wait 5-20 minutes then try to start it. The starter will be heating up while the car sits there.

Try the tech articles at pelican parts. This is one for an ignition switch removal on an early car. Not that useful on your 75, but will give you an idea on what you are in for when you go that route Ignition Switch Removal. It gives a very brief description of jumping the solenoid also.

Once you have checked the grounds come back here and tell us how it worked.

OH and yea and

I appreciate all the replys. Looks like I have my work cut out for me. I did read the pelican parts tech article on replacing the switch -doesn't look too hard, but if it's not broke -then i'm not going to replace it. At least not yet.

I will begin by checking all my connections. If all the connections are good, then I will most likely remove and replace the switch.

These are the connections I will check.

-all connects at the starter.
-battery connections
-ignition switch connections (i feel like if i'm in there i might as well just replace the switch -napa says $28.00 plus tax for the ignition switch)
-engine ground connection

Any other connections I should check?

If you're going to be a 914 owner you had better learn to look around for parts. From the Pelican Parts website:
111-905-865L-M5350 $4.50
Ignition Switch, Electrical Portion, 914 1.7/2.0 (1972-74), Each
Brand: Aftermarket [Photo] [Photo]

111-905-865K-M61 $7.50
Ignition Switch, Electrical Portion, 914 1.8/2.0 (1975-76), Each
Brand: Dansk - Por [Photo]

There's a hell of a difference between $28.50 and $4.50/$7.50

111-905-865L-M5350 $4.50

Ya know -I was looking those prices on the pelican parts website and I thought they must have been for like pieces of the switch or something. YES -a big price difference.....and I'm a dumbazz sometimes!

Did I cover all the connects to check?

You've got it covered.

The switch is about 1.5" long and is held in the tumbler barrel with a mini cone screw. It has 6 tangs on it that connect to a connecter in the steering wheel column.

Since they are made of plastic and subject to heat (current passing thru the contacts), they crack and can make intermittent or no contact at all.

For $7.50 I might just go ahead and replace the switch, if you are going to disassemble the steering column. Although I didn't the first time, and I had purchased the new switch.

I'd check the other connections first, before dissassembling the column.

It is not that hard to disassemble the steering column if it comes to that. Remember how it came apart. The guides are all for years other than 1975 so they are only so useful.

I have no idea what NAPA has. But I would be leary. There used to be a switch assembly that included the lock tumbler and electrical switch that is NLA. You would have a different key for the ignition than the doors (new ignition key). Now you just buy the electrical part of the switch. It is much easier to replace the electircal part on a 75 anyway and your old key still works.