Timed to 30 degrees@3000rpm, dwell is 45.

vac advance is hooked up to throttle body fitting next to the idle adjustment screw.

vac adv never falls out, ends up pinging under load?

disconnect vac advance...no ping.

~400degree head temps at 75-80mph

VERY cold day. I dont get it.

I thought I had this thing figured out.

Are you setting the timing with the vac hose disconnected??

That VERY COLD day is WHY the head temps are higher.. remember the posts about instruments being calibrated at 76F??

If it was 30 degrees outside you can knock off about 45F of those head temp readings...

Cold days make non temperature compensated instruments like the VDO read HIGH..

ah, well Jake I solved that problem by getting a dakota digital gauge that compensates for the Cold Junction.

I'm really seeing 400F now.

Britt, Like Jake asked. Are you timing the engine with the vacum advance connected?

yes...

Connected and disconnected, its not changing now.

I was hoping to get something like 35 degrees connected (or expecting such) but im getting 30.

The wierd part is, isnt the vac supposed to completly cut out at WOT?

Timing should be set with hose conntected right, or disconnected?

I was thinking that if the dizzy was timed with the vac connected, i'd be too much on the retard side of things.

I filled up with premium until i figure things out.

IIRCC Disconnected, port plugged, Engine rev'd, use the tach in the dash. Double check the dwell setting by the book.

I could be wrong, I haven't tuned a type IV in 10 years.

Disconnected, plugged, you SHOULD use a separate tach, but a dash tach should get you close. As for dwell, I do not recall the value, but it is important.

I had a friend with a 911 tell me once, he used a timing light with a built in tach and it changed the voltage to the points and changed the dwell angle causing a timing issue. He went on to say the manual reccomends using the dash tach. I assumed if there was a shred of truth to his story it may also apply to the type IV. If the story is BS I may also be talked into a bridge purchase in Brooklyn.

Kinda curious how a purely passive inductive pickup on the #1 spark wire could accomplish such feats of mischief Sounds suspect to me, like when I am doing something retarded and realize it before the audience does and I make up a silly explanation why I was doing it before anyone asks

"Its good to pour a little oil into the timing hole on the fan, it keeps it lubed!"

Britt,
Start from the beginning of the tune up procedure, and slowly walk through it BY THE BOOK.

Adjust the valves, again.
I have been doing this for way to many years, and I am sure the Capn can vouch here...check them again, be certain that the valve are set correctly before you continue, I know it sucks, just do it again.

Then set the dwell, I shoot for 50, but look at the book, read the spec, and get it perfect. It takes several attempts to get it perfect.
Use the dwell/tach meter as your tach to set the timing.

Remove the vaccuum advance, and set the timing with that hose plugged.
Now, this is important, You are removing the hose from the distributor side, plug the hose so that no air is entering the intake plenum, not the other way around.
If no vacuum is present at the distributor, all it will do is no activate the vacuum advance, so leaving it open in the air changes nothing.
If you leave the intake side open to the air, you allow un measured air to enter the intake,and thus throw off your readings.

If you are running that hot, you are to far advanced, and you need to start over. The Dwell is huge, and very important to getting the car running perfect. Its a very small window, and if you are off, these FI systems dont work well, and your pinging is the result.

Also, make sure that the advance plates in the dizzy move freely, and there is no binding, especially when hot. We have been through that before with you, but I cant remember which engine/FI/dizzy you have now.

So, start over, calm down, do it one step at a time, and the car will run perfect.
I would be happy to talk you through it on the phone, but the important thing is be in the right mood, be calm and be very very picky, and shoot for perfection in every step. If you shoot for perfection, the car will run mint.

And, dont guess on the dwell. If you dont have a meter, go to Sears and get one, its time.

Rich

I have a dwell meter and a digital timing light.

Its time for a valve adjustment.

Britt

What are you running? It is a 914 2.0 isn't it? D-jet? At FFC, I saw your motor and I cannot remember exactly. I was thinking is was not stock. Clymer's lists a 2.0 at 47 degrees dwell and 27 degrees at 3500 vacuum advance disconnected.

73 1,7 (lower compression version)

WishitwasA2.0

79 Bus L-jet system tuned down to 1,7

Brit

If your running a 1.7 shouldn't your timing be at 27 degrees BTDC at 3500 RPM?

That's what I have mine set at.


BTW... I'm going to send you back 3 sets of TP's... I bought a new set from my local bug guy... didn't help unfortunately

Correct for a stock 1.7 (Can't say for sure about your motor). You are too advanced. But then where are you measuring 30 degrees? Did you make your own mark on the fan? Dwell 47 +/- 3 degrees. If you are using a stock fan, then you should be O.K. Haynes shows the measurement to mark the fan for 27 degrees. Mine is lost so I cannot say for sure. If you need a measurement, I can measure one for you.

I have an adjustable timing light so I just time off the mark for TDC... I know...absolutley no help

I have a adjustable light that dials in to one tenth of a degree.

i have a white mark on both the fan and flywheel. I cant see anything on the fan for TDC, but the white mark on the flywheel was made on top of a notch in the flywheel, assuming for indexing to TDC. At first, when I had this problem, I thought that my white mark was for the 7.5BTDC mark, but then I foudn the notch in the flywheel.

You are something else kid...

Re-read Rich's post that I quoted here. Follow his advice exactly. You're running too much advance and you never did clearly state whether you're timing with the advance hose disconnected and plugged (just as Rich suggested). Go time it before you jump under the car to adjust valves or screw something else up.

Timing should be 27 degrees at 3500rpm (with advance hose disconnected and plugged) and dwell spec is 44-50. I shoot for 47.

I haven't seen one of these. I take it you dial in the amount in degrees and tell it the number of cylinders...correct?

Gint, questions answered if you read the actual postings.

vac disconnnected, plugged.
30degrees BDTC at 3200...

Always set the timing with the vac disconnected using only the mechanical advance!

Now, realize that you might just have to forget the actual timing numbers and PUT THE ENGINE WHERE IT WANTS TO BE! That means go up and down with timing noting the changes in temp and performance.. Drive the car up and down the same stretch of road at the same speeds and gear shift points, try to include a decent sized hill in the mix if you can...

Sometimes a "Book" is worthless, especially if the engine has mods, any mods..

If you move the timing 6 degrees retarded and advanced from the base line of 30 degrees you have other issues, if they can't be solved with enrichment changes its deeper..

Tell us about the cooling system, is every part in place? Flaps and all?

everything is together. I drive the interstate for my tests, includes several hills.

i'll try for a few degrees and test again. I'll try 26

I've re-read every one of your posts in this thread and don't see where you wrote that that anywhere. What you did write just confused the issue.

I'm not gonna argue with you. Step back, start from the beginning, time it properly and see where you end up.

BTW - Here's another tidbit. Verify your timing marks on the fan.

I'm done. Good luck.

Verifying the timing marks is a must, 2 degrees can make a 50 degree difference in head temps and more in EGT..

Realize that IF your timing marks are correct and IF your timing light is correct and you NEED 26 degrees of timing or less to make the engine hit the "Sweet spot" for CHT that you are probably elevating the EGT as the compromise and thats hard on the exhaust valves and seats...

Every tuning change creates other tuning changes, you'll find this as you work the problem out and cure it..

What fuel are you running??

Hi Jake.

I am confused by your reply. 26 degrees is only 1 degree from the chart setting. If he is retarding the ignition by 1 degree, then isn't he running cooler? It almost sounds like you are indicating that CHT (cylinder Head Temp) is inverse of EGT ( am assuming Exhaust Gas Temp).

what does the notch in the flywheel mean? If that is TDC then I'm in this position.

If white mark is 7.5 BTDC, then I'm screwed. The engine barely runs at this setting.

the line on the flywheel should be TDC .....

it's not too difficult to pull the #1 plug and check for TDC to ensure the mark on the flywheel and or fan is correct.

have you looked at the timing article on Pelican? it has a scale you can print out 1:1 to mark the fan....

how did you adjust the L-jet for the smaller displacement?? any chance you are too lean now??

could be at stoich, which is the point supposedly where the highest CHT will be.

So yes i think i'm on the lean side of stoich, but the gas usage was liek 22MPG, i'd expect to at least see better mpg if i were running lean over 100+ miles.

I did, at one point, have it too lean, where the CHT dropped tremendously, but it was way on the lean side of things.

Britt.... as I just did this... and I mean just as in I just came in from the garage.

The notch is TDC. If you are using a advance curve timing light then you set it to 27 degrees BTDC and this mark should be visable in the indicator.

The L-jet thing is a serious problem though.... I'm not sure what this would do to the whole process.

But of course WTF do I know I can't get mine to quit fouling plugs.

I've realized that my posts may be percieved as confusing or uninformative.

I apologize to those people that I have had arguments with over this matter, I just have a hard time getting my thoughts out.

I just have so much activity going on in my head, and its hard to sift through the important information in a presentable form. If you've met me, you've seen this.

Anyway, yes. I have it timed now to 27 BTDC at 3275 (where dizzy stopped advancing) with the vac port disconnected and hose plugged.

The plate moves freely, and the pot isnt broken. I can manually put vacuum on it and move my timing, which is pretty exciting.

Still running on the lean side a bit, I'll try to richen it up some and seeing where i'm at.

I can't imagine dialing in carbs--i need numbers to look at. Turns of screws and clicks on a black cog is for teh freaking birds.

everyone has a happy medium of understanding....
i think physical/mechanics - carbs are for me..
you think of 0's and 1's and electrons running around... ljet seems to be working for you...

but you callin me a 'teh freaking bird'?

yes AA you are the Freaking bird, man!

I thought the factory flywheel mark was TDC for #2 and #4

that means i'm at 15 degrees out?

which would mean it'd be pinging like crazy eh?

where are you viewing to flywheel notch from?

the top of the engine, where my timing light is.

i looked on either side of the 7.5 mark for several inches and couldnt see anything that would resemble a TDC mark.

Oh, you mean fan, not flywheel. I get it. I think!

Okay....

I have white marks on BOTH the fan AND flywheel. Flywheel white mark is on top of a notch, I dont have any chopsticks so I havent checked for TDC.

I assume mark on flywheel is TDC, bc the car barely runs when put at that mark. I know how to work a timing light.

on the fan however, I dont see any TDC mark or little circle or big square or a picure of steve McQueen that may have been used to index TDC.

So I have to assume my white mark is TDC, head temps still high (~400 at 75MPH--4th gear is under 400) but no ping.

Timing is at 26 degrees now, vac unhooked.

I guess 30 was just too high. Plain N simple.

Now I will go and try to tune out the head temps, and see if I get better mileage than 22MPG