First thing, the CV kit from Eric Shea and Mueller is a really well thought out kit. It includes everything you need, is packaged well, and the machining it top notch...looks factory. Thanks for such a great product.

So, I will be replacing all four CV's and both rear bearings on my car this weekend. I have no reason not to believe that they are all original and have 200,000miles plus on them. The CV's and clicking and the rear bearing has know to moan on the highway.

Therefore, I am going to document the procedure as I go through it this weekend and ask questions along the way. The Classic message thread about the bearings is a good one. Here are my questions so far:

1. Anyone know where to get the 12-point CV bolt tool in the Portland area? Anyone have one I could borrow?

2. Is it easier to replace the bearing in the car or should I remove the trailing arms? If I remove them, what is the best way to put the alignment back like it is?

Thanks in advance,
Britain

Edit: Here is a picture of the kit...

Got pics since I'm bored and need them too?

Good luck on the swap.

Is this the correct tool? I found a VW shop in my area but they are mostly late model stuff. If it is, I will get it tomorrow.

-Britain

My local NAPA carries the 12 pt (AKA serrated or triple square). There are two sizes, you need the 9mm, I think.

Really, sweet. I might go run up there now and see if it is still open.

-Britain

Looks right.

Damn, they closed at 8.

On their website, they list an 8mm, 10mm, and 12mm. I am guessing the 8mm like this:

8 mm is correct.

Cool, I will get it tomorrow. Stay tuned.

-Britain

I got mine at sears...I think. Came with 4 different ones. Works great.

Autozone has a set of three for cheap and they are the same.

Hey Britain,

I'm in Hillsboro and have the tool from Pelican. Only thing I don't like about this one is the shaft is short so you have to deal with pushing it up against the CV boot. It has a 1/2" drive. You're welcome to borrow it. Send me an email or PM if you need it.

- Bryan

If you can find a REAL bug shop you can get the socket adapter kind for a couple dollars.

Edit: I have the same one Bryan has. But I bought it for a lot less than Pelican wanted, which is like $25 right??

Yah, it was an expensive little tool, around $25-30!

Hey Bryan, are you the guy that works at Chicago's Pizza?

-Britain

I had a Pelican style one and BROKE it last time I tried to use it. I would have bet money that sucker would have lasted forever.

you do know the replacement bolts might be hex head?? (6mm)

some kits will be the triple square.....I cannot remember what I packaged in your kit....

I've always taken the trailing arms off the car when I've changed my bearings. You have to press out the outer bearing race and I never heard of this being done while on the car.

I thought this tool and others like it was developed so that the trailing arms did not need to come off? This is from PP:

No, not me, but pizza sounds pretty good right now.

pep boys had a set of 3 for that tool also - i think for $15

make sure you give it a light tap into the bolt head before you start turning. those 12 points are notorious for stripping out.

I think it's easier (on the wallet) to take the arms off

However, we're talking about replacing CV's not bearings. Thanks for the plug Britain. I'll be following along.

Britain -

PM'd ya...

I also have the PP socket. You are welcome to borrow it, however I am a little GU

(East Portland near Mt. Tabor)

Maybe we could meet somewhere in between?

Not if you have to get an alignment afterwards.

Acutally, I am doing the bearing while I am there replacing the CV's. How would it be easier on the wallet? I am guessing because you can screw them up if you do it on the car. I did the ones on the 911 rear suspension while on the car. I just want to avoid having to get an alignment since I am really happy with my current setting and don't have a recording of what they are.

-Britain

That might be a bit far, thanks for the offer though. I will try to pick one up at Napa today. If I have issues finding one, I will get back in touch with you.

-Britain

Too bad. There is a white 914 with fuchs painted like yours that works at Chicago Pizza in Hillsboro. I have been meaning to leave a note.

-Britain

Well, it only took 10 hours of straight work to replace both rear wheel bearing and all 4 CV's, but everything is back together now and I drove it to work this morning with no issues. That was a lot of work and I am glad that I did it because the driver rear CV which I had suspected to be going out, basically feel apart once I had it out of the car. I will post some pictures when I get home later today.

As for the kit, here is a little message that I had sent to Eric Shea and Mike Mueller (providers of the kit) to give my feedback. I sent this to them yesterday and wanted to get the "ok" before posting it on the board.

My message to them:
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Eric and Mueller,

Coupe of items regarding your CV kits.

1. First of all, thank you very much for provide a service for 914 owners when the orginal parts are NLA. The machining looked great.

2. The kit needs to have instructions. I had questions regarding the orientation of the spring washer that goes on the axel before the CV joint and how to get the spring clip on cause it was a royal pain in the ass. I got it cleared away, but was difficult to say the least.

3. The metal bands had no home. Because the rubber boots were pressed into the gold zinc metal plate, there was no need in my opinion for the metal bands. It only confused the issue because there were no instructions.

4. The bolts. I got 13 hex bolts and 3 12-point bolts. I decided to got ahead and use the three 12-point bolts on one of the outboard joints cause I figured it will be quite a while before I will ever have to pull the off again, but it was annoying anyway.

5. The washers. Wait a second, I got no washers!!! The description on your website says it has everything thing that I need...where are the serrated washers? I am glad that I had previous ordered a set of bolts from Dr. Evil for my 912 project cause I stole all that I need. However, now I will have to order more washers from Dr. Evil unless somebody wants to send me some...hint, hint. For someone who does this project on a daily driver (me) and needs to get it done over a weekend or even one day (me), they would have been screwed without washers.

6. Gaskets. I know your website points it out that the gaskets are not included, but I think you should just include them in the kit. Raise the price a couple of bucks, but it is kinda annoying to have to order them seperately. Just my thoughts on that one, no biggy.

Again, thanks for offering such a product. I did not want to post this on the board without consulting you guys first. I replace all 4 CV's and both rear wheel bearing in about 10 hours of work straight. I went ahead and removed both heat exchangers to aid in the pound out of the wheel bearing since I did not want to pull the control arms.

-Britain

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My quick response from Eric Shea regarding my message:

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Thanks Britain,

Never thought about instructions. I always looked at them like I do bearings I guess. I've never got CV's with them in the past. Sounds like detailed instructions would be a good idea. It would help those that don't have the proper manuals as well.

I'll check with Mike on Bolts. We ordered both Meyle and Lobro. Sounds like Mike got the bolt inventory mixed up a bit.

Schnoor washers. Thanks again. I was unaware they were not included (these get drop shipped to Mike's shop). That's easy enough. I'll get some on order this morning. Also not sure about the straps... I'll check with Mike.

I agree with the gaskets as well. As long as we tear the kits apart to machine them, we can easily put in the gaskets.

Thanks for your input. It will help make the kit better for others.

Eric

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I am glad that we have vendors like this on our board, especially ones that offer alternative to NLA products to keep our cars on the road. I am not sure if the bearing or CV's on my car have ever been replaced, but with 215,000 miles on the clock I shouldn't have to do them again any time soon.

-Britain

Thanks Britian,

Good feedback does help make a better kit.

200 washers on order. They will be a part of the kit.

Gaskets are now part of the kit.



Still easier on the wallet

mixed bolts??

I keep telling myself I need better lighting on that side of the garage

Sorry about that....


I'll have to do a quick instruction sheet, shouldn't be too difficult...I also want to make a short video on how to re-install the cage assembly if you end up removing it....takes about 20 seconds once you get the hang of it....

How difficult, in your opinion, was removing the races from the stub shafts of the flange??

I am assuming that you are talking about the CV joints from the axels...in that case, it wasn't too bad. I just pulled back the rubber boot, removed that damn snap-ring on the end, and tapped on it with a hammer and punch tool. Now, getting it back together was a bitch cause the snap-ring felt like it was too small and never would expand enough to get over the axel. Once I got it started, I used a large socket to tap it down cause the spring washer on the inside of the joint it pushing back at you.

Hope that makes sense.

-Britain

I think he meant how was it getting the hub out of the rear wheel bearing, or the stub out of the hub.

I am talking about the outer bearing race. The one which stays stuck like herculean glue to the stub shaft. I have always had to resort to extreme measures to get these puppies off so I can press the stub back into the new bearing.

Make sense???


J

It would be the inner race and now it's starting to make sense. When the hub is yanked from the control arm, many times the inner race from the split bearing stays on the hub.

To remove you would use heat. They slide off fairly easily if heated up properly. If you have a stubborn one you can carefully cut it with a dremel carbide wheel. once you get close to the bearing surface on the hub it will usually split.

ok- THE OUTER, INNER RACE --

I need more coffee -

Ah, I see now. I didn't not have any issues but I would do what Eric said if I did.

-Britain

I have a bunch of hubs with the inner race stuck to them back at the shop. I'll take some pictures of the problem and the solution tonight and post.

I added a picture of the kit to the first post for the record, in case people search for it in the future.

-Britain