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Full Version: Smoke, melting wire, now what?
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computers4kids
My 914 devleloped a problem that it wouldn't shut off when you turned the key off which led me to install a new alternator and regulator because of an article I found on the bird board tech articles. I guess when the diodes go bad in the alternator you get run-on.

So I get the new alternator and regualtor installed, reconnect the battery, turn the key, you hear the stereo kick on but absolutely nothing on the crank...no crank, no idiot lights on the dash....nothing. I went and connected a voltmeter to the positive battery terminal and ground to see if the battery is good and one of the small black wires that goes to the negative side of the coil starts smoking and the compufire inside the distributor also starts smoking. I instantly turn the kill switch.

I'm not sure what happened. I made no other changes but the alternator and regulator--both are new. The new regulator did look different--was told it was a replacement for the OEM--see below.

What do you think???? I'm not to sure what I should do next. My only thoughts are it's the wrong regulator and it somehow has caused this short.
HeloMech
power reversed on the coil... key on, points happened to be closed.. .direct short across that wire.. .pooofta.

That's just my guess from the cheap seats.

Anyone? Anyone? Bueller?
drive-ability
The hole thing is hard to figure but maybe your main battery/body ground is compromised and diverting the system amperage flow through ancillary (smaller) ground circuits. That would overload them to a point of melting.
MecGen
Hi

The reason you changed the alt/reg was because of "run on", after you turn of motor it kicks backwards and chugs like a train, or because, after you turn off the key, it keeps on running like you never touched the key ???

Regardless, you are in need to replace the compufire and coil... headbang.gif
When they smoke its a done deal. You will need to trace that hot wire back and inspect for hidden damage. I have read in a past post of a similar problem that was caused by the accell cable rubbing the 12v wire to the coil, causing a short.

With smoking wires, always check the grounds, its a problem with our cars. I don't have a clue if the Regulator is the right one or not, I've never had to replace mine, but I would definately remove it untill someone can confirm its the real deal. Maybe give the boys at Pelican a buzz, or maybe DD will chime in. Unhook your coil and Compufire also before turning on your ignition again.

Good luck, play safe
Later

beerchug.gif
computers4kids
QUOTE(MecGen @ Nov 12 2006, 04:22 AM) *

Hi

The reason you changed the alt/reg was because of "run on", after you turn of motor it kicks backwards and chugs like a train, or because, after you turn off the key, it keeps on running like you never touched the key ???

Yes, it keeps on running..absolutely everything worked..runs great--just won't shut off with key.

Regardless, you are in need to replace the compufire and coil... headbang.gif
When they smoke its a done deal. You will need to trace that hot wire back and inspect for hidden damage.
I figured I toasted the compufire, but the coil too.. headbang.gif headbang.gif headbang.gif

I plan on tracing the wire back...hopefully the damage doesn't go too far back...

I have read in a past post of a similar problem that was caused by the accell cable rubbing the 12v wire to the coil, causing a short.

Good Tip...I have something like that going on...

With smoking wires, always check the grounds, its a problem with our cars. I don't have a clue if the Regulator is the right one or not, I've never had to replace mine, but I would definately remove it untill someone can confirm its the real deal. Maybe give the boys at Pelican a buzz, or maybe DD will chime in. Unhook your coil and Compufire also before turning on your ignition again.

Thanks for all the advice...I thought my problems were over when I replaced the alt and reg...now my problem has been complicated!!
Good luck, play safe
Later

beerchug.gif

computers4kids
QUOTE(drive-ability @ Nov 11 2006, 10:16 PM) *

The hole thing is hard to figure but maybe your main battery/body ground is compromised and diverting the system amperage flow through ancillary (smaller) ground circuits. That would overload them to a point of melting.



Does anyone know the locations of all of the 914's ground points? I know of the tranny strap, the battery strap, the one by the fuse box...I'm sure there's a slew of them.

I agree a compromised ground could divert the flow to any source it could find, i.e. the small wire to coil.

confused24.gif Puzzling is, before I changed the alt and reg I didn't have any problems other than the run on.

PS Love the look of your 914...didn't I read somwhere you have a V-8? No overheating problems? ...just saw your link under your picture. I'm very comfortable with traditional motors...the 914 4s have been a real learning curve for me...not to mention my shortcomings in the "electrical dept."
JeffBowlsby
6 ground points total.

To your list, add 1 under the relay plate and 2 more, one each behind each headlight. The fried wire at the coil looks like it was on the wrong coil terminal.
computers4kids
QUOTE(Jeff Bowlsby @ Nov 12 2006, 07:38 AM) *

6 ground points total.

To your list, add 1 under the relay plate and 2 more, one each behind each headlight. The fried wire at the coil looks like it was on the wrong coil terminal.


Jeff...thanks for the ground point list.

You mention that it look like the fried wire was on the wrong terminal. I wonder if I somehow switched a wire way back when I was working on my teener and disconected the coil which resulted in the "run on" which I described above. That would make the most sense to me. Why it fried after I replaced the alternator is still a bit puzzling (could be unrelated).

Could someone help me determine which wires should go to the pos and neg terminals of the coil. I don't know if I've mixed one up but who knows.
JeffBowlsby
Green condenser wire + thin black/purple tach wire on the -terminal (15)
Thick black/red wire on the + terminal (1)
mihai914
I had the exact same wires cook on my car years ago. The problem is I can't remember exactly what caused the problem. Here are the problems I had:

1. Bad battery ground, looked good from the outside but it was all rusted (figures, it's the hell hole). I replaced that ground point with a new one on the engine fan shroud.

2. Coil was not secured properly and it would rotate and cause a short on the engine case. Make sure it is tight and add tape if you need to increase the coil's thickness.

3. The multiple pin connectors on the relay board, it's very easy to install them two pins off (mine were broken at the centering pin) without knowing. The car will run and you'll cook some wires. So make sure those are installed right if you played with them.

Electrical stuff is painfull and symptoms are wacky at best. The alternator harness is pretty easy to replace but I think the tack wire goes all the way to the front uninterrupted.

Finally I wouldn't trust that voltage regulator from the flaps, if you're going to buy one go with the Bosch or check in the classifieds for a good used one.
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