I got my '73 2 litre just over a month ago and I believe there are at least 3 ways to set the 27 deg.BTDC mark to line up with the fan base mark. My experience with 105 series Alfas is; the closer to the mark, the "sweeter" the engine runs.
I have tried timing it @3500 rpm with the vac advance hose connected, disconnected and disconnected with the hose plugged. Of the three I have found the latter gives the sweetest response. How do you accurately time your "baby"?
Geoff.

Just like the Manual says.

Something you have to do 1st is dwell for the points. unless you have a Petronics type trigger.

Once points dwell is set then do timing. vacuum line removed and plugged.

Why is this so hard? You remove BOTH hoses, plug 'em if you like, run it up to 3000 RPM or so, align the full advance mark with the pointer, lock it down, recheck it to verify the timing, and reattach the hoses. Done. There's no tolerance, just the mark. The Cap'n

I agree with capt, plugging teh hoses or not should not matter, just remember to pull them off the dizzy If left open, you will get a higher idel, so don't adjust idles speed witht hem opn, you need to set timing at the higher rpm, so open hoses will not matter in the timing.

You want the best performnce over time, ditch the points, and get a Pertronix or other pointless system, they are under $100, and you don't have to worry about drifting timing ever cuase of the constant point wear. that would be the best tunning investment on a stock car.

the next thing is make sure you adjust the valves, do it cold, and don't ignore them, they need to be rechecked frequently, not like a new car with hydrolics, not even like a cast iron block water cooled old car either. the mismatch of materials (alum. case/heads iron cylinders) can change diminsions, and vleve seats can move int he heads easily, so you got to stay ontop of the valve adjust. very critical on VW engines

I keep a log of my valve adjusts, and write how much each valve is out of tolerance each time. That way I can track receeding seat easy. if you don't keep a record you may miss that say #2 ex valve always is .002 inch too tight, after ten adjsutemtns, that is .020 inch seat recesion. or the other way, the seat is coming out! Keep detailed valve adjust records. if one or more adjuster always needs to be tightened, you can estimate that you should be looking for a head repair,a dn plan for it, rather than surprise, i just broke a valve on a seat that came out, and broke my piston!! yikes!!!

the standard stuff of a clean airfilter, and no vacuum leaks applies too.

good luck

Youi guys dont use a laptop?

I just tell the standalone what timing i want and where in the boost/rpm map...

Same thing w/ fuel.

BJH:-D

Thanks for the input fellers, I was wondering about pulling the vac. retard hose as well, now I know.
Another point; I notice that when cold the dwell is at 44 deg. when hot 48 deg. If I rev the motor hot or cold the dwell is stable, less than 1/2 a deg. variation. Is this normal?

Ya got me on that one.
Only had points for like 3 months. I would say set the dwell hot as that is how you will drive it. Sounds wierd however.

Is there any side to side movement is the rotor shaft?

Joe,I will check for play when I pull the dizzy.There is some rotational play???

Its a side to side movement as the shaft does rotate