Battery is fine, but when I try to start it, all I get is a solenoid click. Like maybe it's jammed? Car won't turn over. Push started the car just fine, drove around, parked it and tried to start it, but no dice. Just a click.

This is apparently a Renegage "factory" conversion, done in the mid 90s. What kind of starter is this? Some random dude once told me it is from a Mitsubishi diesel. Correct?

Also, it looks like a separate solenoid on it? Is it replaceable? Can I take it off while the starter is on the car? How do I diagnose the problem?

The starter itself seemed to be working strong, no problem, before today.

Diesel..LOL

IMI starters right near you sells them and supplies them to Renegade.

They also supply 99% of the foreign car market.

Any of your local Hot Rod VW places or sand rail places should carry them also.

This is the first failure I have heard of.. ever..

Hi Brian!



B

Crazy U-joint setup you got going there!!

Tell us more about it??

It is not Nadella..

B

check your connections and ground...

Brad's right...it's the IMI E-Bay mini starter. You probably have a weak ground and/or loose connection.

Bill

it looks like there is an adaptor plate. if there is an adaptor plate between the starter and the transaxle then it could be a chevy starter like what i started with. then i got rid of the adaptor plate and went with a high torque mini.

crazy axles. custom? baja?

I doubt it's the solenoid. Agree with checking grounds. If you want to nail it quick, do the screwdriver trick. Careful of course, car in neutral. But it will tell you a lot in a few seconds if you short between the 12v terminal at the starter, and the solenoid/start terminal. I bet it cranks.

Roger,

it is a Japanese small car starter with a billet adapter for mating to our VW/Porsche tranny's.

Typically I have to re-clock the VW units I buy for 914's. The adapter bolts on the front and can clocked to rotate the starter away from the trunk.


B

Thanks guys. I'll check the grounds and connections, and see how it goes.

Lots of people comment on the axles. They look like some kind of custom made things. Using standard American car U joints on both ends, with a standard driveshaft slider in the middle? Welded up to the Porsche flanges on both ends.

That's about all I know. That and they seem like they would never break!

I need to get around to cleaning up the underside of the car and refinishing things like the axles. Am kind of embarassed to show pics of the bottom, although it's not bad, I'd like to redo it. I actually started on the project at one point, was going to remove the drivetrain, get the engine on a stand, etc. Was getting ready to remove the drivetrain, but I couldn't get the u-joints apart! Couldn't get the crosses out of the yokes. U-joints are not something us Porsche guys are used to working with!

So because this would have been just a cosmetic project, I canned it for the time being.

Shoot another shot for me. I'll figure them out. I kinda know "merican" car stuff. I bet they are from a Jag rear end or Corvair.



B

Any drive shaft repair places can make you a set of them; their just like Vette ones but to custom length. Renegades axels are just as strong for less money I bet unless the PO made them himself which realy ain't to difficult to do.

The prior owner had the car built entirely by checkbook, at Renegade, in '95. He didn't spare much money. For ex., the chassis is fully reinforced, Vellios 915, etc.

Whether Renegade fitted the axles, or they were replaced someplace down the line, I'm not sure. My guess is they were put on by Renegade, though. The owner was an older guy who didn't drive the car very hard, or very much. Not exactly an axle bustin' kind of guy.

I'll shoot some detail shots when I'm under the car this weekend cleaning up the starter connections.

My moneys on the axles being Corvair

Corvair and Corvette axles have no linear slip joint,
Remember the americans use the axle for an upper suspension link.
Those are standard dana/spicer american driveline parts, plenty strong.
may use the same ujoint though.

Got it fixed, thanks guys. It was a loose connection somewhere. Took apart connections, cleaned and tightened with a bit of dilectric grease, and it fired right up.

Here's some pics of the mystery axles for you 'murican car experts.





How do you get these u-joints apart? Just take the clips out and drive the crosses out, I assume. I tried that and they wouldn't budge, although I didn't use any heat or really hard hitting.

Sawzall?

Those are ford style front driveshaft pieces for a 4X4. Me thinks those are spicer style universal joints.

They probably have a circlip at each side. Pop the clip (if there is one)

Then press them out half way with a hydraulic press. or beat them out with a hammer using a old socket as the drift.

If you are lucky enough to have a port-A-power. You can press the universals out next to the tranny while in the car.

You can look in most old school GM, ford or Chrysler car manuals if ya need pics. Just look for the driveshaft r&r section.

Or bring the car to me and I will help you.

And we won't adjust the valves.

Cheers.

C

Hey C,

Yeah, you can see the circlips in the first and second pics. I pulled them out and tried banging on the crosses with an old socket as a drift, but no go. They are in pretty good. Hitting hard with the BFH, don't like to do it!

A port-a-power would be good.

I don't need to take them off right now, there's no problem.

At some point, though, when I have a bit more time, I'd like to get them disconnected so I can drop the drivetrain for some housekeeping.

Your help with the valves was appreciated! That was new to me. After seeing how it was done, I was able to redo them to get them right to the exact spot where this engine seems to like to be. Which is basically as loose as possible, while remaining quiet. Runs the smoothest and has the most power at that setting. Also gives the highest vacuum reading at idle at that setting.

Hope everyone is having a great holiday!

You take the clips out, and beat it one way until the cap slides out. Then you remove the cap and beat it the other way to get the cap on the other side out. Once the caps are out on opposite sides the X shaped center part can be fished out of the yoke. Roller bearing bits will go everywhere. Getting the new ones in is trickier because you have to do it without damaging them. That's where a vice and a few sockets come in handy.

Just be glad they aren't Opel U-joints.

Can you say heavy????

Strong though....

Hey 914-8.

Your lifters are DEFINETLY anti pump up. Not regular hydro lifters.

They are meant to be set at ZERO... I called up a bunch of the bros after that fiasco and they all said the same thing.

So now ya know..........

You probably have either Rhodes, Comp cams, or Crane lifters.

If you want to know more about these... Go Here!!!!

And if ya need to ever change the U Joints... PM me. If I am around... I will respond

Cheers,

C