any one have any info? i fucked my explorers ignition up and i was gonna just put a
switch in. (like a race car)

its a 1994 ford explorer xlt. althought im sure the basic method is the same universally.

Do Fords have the key with the resistor in it at that point? My '78 Monte (ECM and powertrain from a '95 TA) had VATS, which is still intact.

If it does, you'll need to measure the resistor value and add that value inline to the anti-theft system.

Otherwise, you can have another "key" type switch or two STSP switches, with one being a momentary switch, so long as it's rated to handle the amps it takes to start the car.

What is exactly wrong with it?

(Edit: Or a DTDP switch, which would keep Acc as well. You would, of course, have to look at the wireing for the switch to make sure that it's still that basic. It's been a long time since i've done an ignition switch in anything.)

What are you gonna do about the steering lock? The Cap'n

hmm well i figured i could poke my dremel aroudn some.

i dont know.


what other options do i really have?

A cool temporary push button switch which is the primary circuit of the relay you probaly have on your starting circuit. They call it your solenoid I think and has two small poles and two large ones for the starter, your starter swich goes to the two small ones. You also need a switch for your auxiliary circuit which is the on position that your key is on to keep everything juiced up when running. It would be cool to have an eluminated push button start switch like the new Lexus have. The lock on your steering wheel can probably snap with a good tug of the wheel, I'd call a repo towing company for info.

ah yeah. like a momentary switch thing.

itll need three steps tho (off, on, and START)

hopefully the weather holds out and ill be able to drive the teener to school whilst the expl(orer) is out of commission.

jegs or summit. get a race car harness. all you need ismaster power, fuel pump, ingition, then starter.

Yeah. Smart. Add a big red button to an "exploder." God only knows what could go wrong at that point. Your rear brakes may very well cease to function.

Haha. Good luck.

Sawzall party, anyone?

But... The cool race cars have an extra button in the engine bay for starting. In case your doing maintenance and need to warm the engine up before you change the oil. HIYA!

As I see it, you have no choice other than to repair it properly. I have limited Detroit Iron steering column experience, but it's a complicated job that even my neighbor, the Ford specialist, doesn't like doing. I'm sure it's a tilt wheel, making it even more fun. If it's just the tumbler part, there are relatively simple techniques for removing it, and you may be able to order a new one keyed to match. Googling the problem suggests there's a hole below the tumbler. Turning the key to the run position, you push a small punch into the hole and depress the locking pin, then just pull the tumbler out. If the key won't turn, you either have a bad key, a bad tumbler, or a bad steering column lock. If your key is really worn out, maybe you should buy a new key from the dealer. They should be able to access the information to get it right. If that fixes it, get a second key made and put the first one away. If it's the switch portion, it's likely to be difficult. If it's the steering lock or lock housing, it's gonna be even worse. I do a lot of 'em on Volvos and BMWs, and I hate every one I have to do. The Cap'n

i've done such things in my old '79 dodge (easy), but i don't think i'd mess with it in a '94 ford.

by the time you get everything out to wire a switch, you might as well just fix it proper.