I cracked my aluminum 3.0 case with the stud extractor. I would like to fix without taking apart. I have seen some low temp (350F) aluminum welding stuff on the web, and I have quite a bit of epoxy background, so I may look into that.

Anyone else done anything this stupid and lived to tell?

JB weld and a qwik eBay sale.....















































JOKE....sorry to see that....

I think it depends on the structure of the metal where it cracked. If it is an area that is load bearing or needs to be true to ensure proper bearing or chain wear then you need to have it repaired professionally, i.e., split the case and have it welded and machined.

If it just needs to stop leaks then go with liquid steel...

I'd be looking back and forth between that crack and my TIG welder.

Tough call. I'm sorry that happened.

Ummmmmm ok...

whats the inside of the case look like

Also how about rotating the pic??? at least

Ya it sucks but ain't nothing to tig back. If the damage was done from the outside then no big deal

Sorry to see this!

If all you want is to ensure no leakage then may I suggest a compound I have used for over 15 years in the aerospace industry.

It is a two-part thixotropic, it is unprenetratable by gas, oil, hyd fluid, etc ,AND it does not harden and crack over time. (the way JB and others are designed to do) This stuff expands and contracts with heat and is an unbelievably stout adhesive to boot.

But, it is pricey, and the base metals have to be absolutely pure of foreign particulates.

Good news is you can order it from aircraft spruce and specialty company -

It is called "Pro-Seal" fuel and tank sealant PRC-890-class B -type II you can get it in small, large tubes and pints. Do not use anyother product from the catalog other than the pro-seal - this is used on ALL commercial jets for sealing at the factories!!

Make sure you mix it very well! This stuff last for at least 10 years on average

I use the same stuff to repair my fuel tank - and a small crack in my tranny -

Thanks for the input. I'll check the Pro-seal products. It's not a structural issue, just an oil leakage source. I may still look into welding/soldering, but the risk is higher.

As to the rotation, this is upright. The crack is adjacent to cyl#4, the empty threaded hole is for the lower head stud nearest to the cam chain end.

Thanks again!