so I tried searching the forum to find this info but can't locate the thread... anyway, a member bought a trailer and guys recommended a particular controller for it as it was cheap and good. I am looking at getting a 20' enclosed trailer and would need to wire in a controller.

My Lightning has all the wiring pre-wired in the truck and the 7-pin at the back and comes with a little harness to splice in the controller so it should be really easy to do...

Plain and simple....
Prodigy brake controller by Tekonsha...not the cheapest, just the best.

Absolutely the best brake controller for your uses...I have had many electric brake controllers over the years for various RVs and open and enclosed race car trailers... this is the best.
Read about it here.

http://www.campingworld.com/browse/skus/in...m=20535:src=TSC

I probably should'nt admit this in public.

Not one time in 20 years of trucks+trailers have I used a brake controller. I never really saw a need for one pulling 2k lb 914's in enclosed trailers or on flatbeds.

Granted, I have never pulled with anything "small" that might be overwhelmed by the trailer.

Guess I have been lucky. My current 3/4 ton crew cab has 175k on the speedo and it's 3rd set of brake pads up front. It just received its first set of rears. I think this is VERY reasonable do to the amount of towing I have done with it. Recently I have been pulling the Boxster in a 24ft enclosed trailer (in LA traffic) still havent "been scared" of running up and down the Grapevine.

Doesnt mean I'm against them.. I'll probably get one once I start having people help drive to events.. to protect my assets and them.


B

I love brake controllers.

In addition to the functionality that Dan show us, they also have another have another function.

They keep your shorts from getting brown spots when the trailer becomes the master and you the slave.

Much of my towing over the years has been with RVs...many of which were well over 8Klbs.
With no brake controller the trailer wants to become the lead vehicle in some heavy braking situations. Most of my tow vehicles have been very big and heavy which is good for general control as Brad states....and I flat tow my 914 with no problems...
But for towing with an enclosed trailer that itself probably weighs at least 2500-3000lbs, a brake controller with brakes on both axles is an absolute in my book....
I have been towing trailers, be they boat, RV, 5th wheels and race car trailers for almost 40 years now...
operating brakes on the towed trailer is safer not to mention much easier on the tow vehicle...

I currently tow a near 8Klb RV with my 1/2 ton suburban with a prodigy brake controller and would not consider towing with out it.

take that for what it is worth.

cool, thanks for the info. That was probably it as I recall the topic was answered by the NorCal guys And I remember it being mentioned around $200, so that is probably it.

I have used open trailers no brakes, but if I get this enclosed trailer to move to Colorado, I will definitely want one of these for the Rockies...

Dan is right spend hte dollars for that one. It is worth it, the only one better is a built in unit in the new Ford 350 SuperDuty.

It is nice to be right occassionally

from what I have read, the built in controller in the Ford Super Duty is the Prodigy contoller internals. IIRC

I've got one for my truck/trailer. Saved my ass (and truck/trailer/car) once and it paid for itself. An old fart pulled out in front of me from a stop sign and I was doing about 60 mph at the time. Never did get the stain out of my shorts....

I agree. My wife, son and I really needed the trailer brakes when moving my son back from NJ to IL. I was pulling the trailer with his car (full of junk) on it when the trailer started to sway, more and MORE. Applying the trailer brakes from the head unit got it back in line and then I slowed down.

If you have to wire in a pigtail to a pre-wired truck, CHECK the wiring color code on both the pigtail and the truck connector. I blew out my first unit by matching the colors on the pigtail to the colors on the Durango's connector - WRONG. If I had read the instructions and did what they said I wouldn't have had to replace it. The company sent me a unit, the CS person said it was a common problem.

Good luck,
Mike

OK.. your scaring me..LOL 1/2 ton truck?? pulling 8k?

The 3/4 ton trucks (all of them) have 1 ton brakes under them.


B

pp

Had my truck specially built....4:10 gears, heavy duty trans and engine cooling
heavy duty shocks and I run rear air springs.

My truck was rated to tow 8,800 lbs from the factory plus my upgrades.

I pull my trailer everywhere...this year alone trip to Tahoe, Yosemite, Oroville, Chico.
Up and down every hill and mountain with no problems.
And I get anywhere from 9-11 mpg while towing.
My truck now has 60+ thousand miles with the original brakes still with over 50% left on the pads and rotors.
Almost 1/2 of the total mileage has been towing my RV or some sort of racecar trailer.

Thanks Mike, good to know to watch the wire colors. I would do the same thing frankly, assume red = red and probably not read the little flags on each wire like I should I am going to order that prodigy one from camping world if I buy this trailer since I called them and they said it should wire right into the Ford pigtail. Told my buddy with the trailer assuming the job in CO comes through, I will be a trailer owner for sure.

Appreciate everyones' help!!!

Also, he said he has the shock kit thingy (how you like that Engrish) to help control sway too. I get the whole 20ft shebang for $3K so I am pretty stoked on that. Trailer is like brand new too.