Here it is again, folks, and I'm seeking input, advice, and direction. This is all original, including the black, mysterious "trunk putty". The car is going to get a complete repaint.....do I redo this trunk? Leave it alone? Get rid of the weird, pliable, black putty and "spot" paint those areas, or just clean up the whole trunk and include it in the respray?

I'd say touch it up as best you can and leave it as original as you can. You might have to mix a few shades of touch up paint to get the right color, but that's what I'd do. If'n it's opinions you want.

I say leave it alone!

You 914 is one of the very early ones. So, I can see the final inspection stage, where Ludvig is walking doen the line, inspecting trunks & see flaws - slaps some unpainted goo on the joints & pronounces it saleable.

It's history!

As much of a purist as I am....
I say go the way of respray the entire trunk..
Sorry ..But a new paint exterior deserves the same for your trunk,,
As it goes far beyond a few 'Golf Club Scratches' back there....

Yeah, I know what you're saying. But, if you look at earlier threads about this trunk those are not scratches. Apparently, they were final inspection goo placed by the factory, after construction was complete. As much as I like a factory-perfect trunk, I think this one is. I personally would have a hard time deciding whether or not to paint it. The rest of the trunk is perfect - it's only goo.

Tough decision, particularly from a purist standpoint. There's history in the goo. Yet, it would look better painted over.

with all the rust being found during the strip down of this car, it would be crazy not to do the trunks as well...

Ferg

If you look closely, you'll see that the major rust is confined to the passenger side of the car, and does not include the longs. Trunks are good & reaaly NEED nothing. I must be getting old, but why cover history with paint unless it's needed for protection?

I'd leave the rear alone. Would do the bottom third of the front trunk to get rid of blisters, but that's all. AND, that's me. The owner should do what makes him warm & fuzzy.

Your telling me he has no rust in the longs? Are we looking at the same pics?Click to view attachment

My point is/was that it hides everywhere, especially in a car thats seen winter. I agree that both trunks look really good, but at this point, I see no added value in saving orig paint in trunks.

I'm really happy to see this car redone, it's great that a owner has the gut's and nerve to tear into a nice car like this. I'm watching this thread all the way through.

Ferg

You're looking at pan rust. The longs were given a clean bill of health.

Paul...step in here if things have changed.

Ferg and Pat,
We are all on the same page, so to speak. The previous picture shows a thoroughly rusted portion of the rear pan, rust is confined to that portion of the pan, and a whole pan replacement will not be done. The longs on both sides have been deemed solid. As there has been no degradation of door closure nor top fitment issues, coupled with the pictures I've been e-mailed, the determination that the longs don't need replacement is welcome. The new pieces being welded in are being treated on the inside surfaces prior to installation for corrosion resistance and after fitment, a rust inhibitor is to be applied into the cavity.
A little background info on this car. Back in 1978, I trailered this car to the same shop because the right rear trailing arm mounting point failed, due no doubt to the car's early exposure to salt filled roads in the winter and the rigors of several AX seasons. At that time, the longs were intact and a rust inhibitor applied to their yellow painted surface. That is the black material that you can see in some of the pictures. Subsequent to the aforementioned repair in '78, the car has not been on winter roads. Back in 1978, this shop was the only one familiar with this console failure, as no one in Cincinnati had any idea how to fix this. Furthermore, this shop was the only one near me at the time that had the proper frame alignment equipment to affect the repair properly. In the intervening years, I've had no issues with alignment even with subsequent AX seasons. So my previous experience with this body shop warrants my belief and trust in their advice and judgement.

We still differ in opinion on what's the pan, and what's the bottom of a long, but that's cool.

This question belongs in your other thread, but will they be scraping off the stuff they applied in 78? What Type of product will be sprayed into the long?

Keep up the Pics and updates!

Ferg

This whole thing is more fun that I expected. I'm just very happy it's not happening to my 914! I'm even more interested in seeing how he treats the car when it's finished. Hope he doesn't get stuck into the CW thing, but I would - at least for a couple of years. Oh hell, I'd be stuck in it permanantly - who am I kidding!

It's always more fun watching someone else spend money

Ferg

if that's the case, please shoot the "mechanic" who gave the longs "a clean bill of health" ...

what you see in the picture is the metal portion of the heater tube *inside* the long.
the bottom of the long is *completely* rusted away!!!!

this is the underside of the hell-hole. you usually see that kind of rott in that place if the acid has corroded the top of the long and then puddled up on the bottom, rusting through.

this is a MAJOR structural problem you're having there!

i can gurantee you that your car is sagging right now. you need to make sure the car is moved into spec AND supported with additional braces between the doors and preferably an adjustable X on the top before you start welding this up.

Andy