I just purchaced a 72' 1.8 and just learning about Porsches I have noticed that i don't have a thermostat but the cool ail flaps are still in tact . Wonder if I need the cool air flaps working or if they can be removed ? It would be easier to install a new thermostat but all I see is NLA. Can anybody help on which way to go.
Thanks, Bart

DO NOT REMOVE THE FLAPS.......Their failure mode (bad thermostat or no thermostat) will position them in the correct position for running. The thermostat only pulls the flap into the start/warmup position (blocks air to the oil cooler, heads and jugs).

here is a possible place to buy the stat.

'72 1.8?

that t-stat is actually a type 1 thermostat, just FYI.

Thanks for all the help guys I can use all I can get. My next ? would be what temp. should the motor run at and is there any place or type of gauge to install ?
I hate dummy lights !!! I'm scared I'm going to burn the car up.

I said possible

here is there type 1 ad. 69 for type 1, 99 for type 4. maybe they just used the same pic, maybe not don't know

Can't say for sure still to new but by reading the Haynes manual and where they say the VIN # should be . But by matching the # online it looks to me to be a 1.7 . Is there a way to really tell ????

Nope unless you disassemble the engine.....you should be reading the engine number, not the VIN.

so is the 1.7

W='70-'71 1.7
EA='72-'73 1.7
EB='73 1.7 smog (lower compression)
EC='74 1.8 smog (lower compression)
AN=European 1.8

VO=1.7/1.8/2.0 magnesium case - few brought into US

My 1.7 never had a thermostat and when I pulled off the ducting it was missing a flap. It seems to warm up real good and drives great. I am re-doing the heating ducts thanks to new hose and HE and am not sure if I should replace the flap and themostat or not. Of course completeness is good, but maybe this is another item that doesn't HAVE to be hooked up, like my decel valve which was never there either.

SO I guess I am repeating the original question... replace or ignore?

The first #'s are EA . Will that tell me it's a 1.7 And a 72 1.8 doesn't sound right?
Thanks for all the help !!!! I hate needing this much help but this car is a rare breed to me I'm use to my ol' GMC

Hmmm...

From waaaayy back in the days when I used to sell VW parts...

The type I t-stat I think has an 111 part number. This one is an 021.

More research will be required.

even the t1 thermostats work great, they just open sooner than the t4 counterpart.

Replace. The right-side flap ducts the air into the oil cooler. That one absolutely must be there, regardless of anything else.

It's good to have the rest of the system operational, as it will help your engine last longer. You want the engine to get up to operating temperature quickly, and then not to get warmer than that. The T-stat helps with the former.

--DD

you NEED the flaps. without them, the oilcooler will get almost no airflow at all at all times. ticket for dissaster ...

you can run without the thermostat as the flaps "fail" to the max. cooling position by default.

however, make sure that *if* you remove the thermostat, either leave the little round plastic wheel on the motor or, if you remove it, put the bolt holding it back into the case!
that mounting hole is a *through* hole and will result in a nice, big oil-leak if left unplugged ...

Andy

Great discussion - thanks
I am realizing the minimalist knowledge and good experience that went into my salvage yard engine install. I insructed him to make it work good and not buy every piece OEM for concourse assembly. I've got the wheel, no thermostat, and both flaps. Driving with no ducts recently caused me to loose the driver side flap I think. Now I realize the lack of ducts might have killed air flow to the oil cooler (!,?). I'll have to bust out haynes etc to really figure this out if I go to a header w/o additional oil cooling.

I have run my '72 without the t-stat for years, justifying it by stating that I live in Texas and my problems are keeping it cool enough.

But I just ran some errands for about 45 min, stop and go traffic with the air temp around 30-40 F. My oil temp NEVER got up to 180deg.....

Think I am going for find that t-stat in one of my boxes and see if it still works.