OK, I finaly did it. I purchased a 3.0L and I am going to put it in my 6!

So here is what I need:

Any photos, data, tips, directions, information and help in stuffing this thing in!!

I am planning on crank fire ign. and leaving the injection. I am using the 901 stock transmission currently in my 6.

Jeff

PS: I will post photos as I progress.

Begin drinking heavily now. That way it's not such a shock to the system when you start doing it because of the car.







Sometimes I just crack me up.

Whoo Hoo..another 3.0.....if you need any specific info let me know....
that was my last winters project...
it is damn quick....

Thanks Pete!

I would like to hear how you did your ignition and intakes. What did you do for the O2 sensor? What items did you have to modify on the sheet metal? Do you have photos? Can I use the flywheel from my 2.0 6?

Jeff

I don't know



You can weld a bung into your 914-6 head exchangers or muffler.



I don't know. My sheet metal is custom fabricated.



I do of my 3.2.



I believe that you can, but the timing marks will be off (as far as I know). Supposedly the index on the flywheels changed over the years. You can move the timing mark(s) though.

good luck.

Huh?

I thought that last 914 you bought WAS a 6, no?

Oh, maybe it wasn't a 3.0 though, huh?

Hey Scott,

Yes it is currently a 6 and I am dropping in a 3.0 as soon as I can get all the info!

John,

Can I just put the flywheels together and transfer the marks?

Thanks all, any info that will help me is greatly appreciated!

Jeff

You could. But what I would do is to install the desired flywheel and bring engine to TDC (pulley marks) and then mark your TDC on the flywheel and eliminate the original mark (so you don't confuse it with the real TDC mark).

This way seems to be a more precise way of marking the flywheel instead of eyeballing it. (I'm not sure how you would precisely hold the two flywheels together to re-mark the early one).

Good luck to you.

The 3.0 is CIS if I recall....

I think there are some old threads about making a CIS setup work in a 914 engine bay. I have done 3.2's, but not 3.0's.

You want to use crank trigger, but retain CIS? Thats an odd one. If you retain CIS, mught as well leave the dizzy alone. It will be FAR simpler and no diff in power.

Can't use the 2L /6 flywheel. <=2.7L used different # of flywheel bolts on the crank compared to >=3L motors. The ~76 Carrera3.0 still used the old 6(?) bolt crank, but I think its the only one that didn't fit the rule.

OK, so do I modify the 3.0 flywheel or what do I purchase?



I was told that I could add crank fire and eliminate the timing problem, a hard to get too dizzy. I have Webers but I would prefer to keep the CIS. If I can't add crank fire then I will just leave everything stock 3.0.

Jeff

What year is your 3.0 from?

later 81-83 have the lambda brain which you will have to mount, they also have the metal fuel lines.

The earlier ones have the larger intakes though.


I think kennedy has an adapter flywheel to use with the 901 clutch, this is probably the best route.

sounds fun

:GreenWithEnvy:

congrats!!

I've done a similar conversion using the CrankFire box and Webers, it really goes together quite easily. Just watch your timing light strobe and you'll see the difference between crankfire and a dizzy. Plus, it reaaly cleans up the engine compartment.

I would call Richard Clewitt for the latest, but it's a neat system. You can also go the BITZ racing route and do up an electronic fuel injection system using the stock CIS system parts with minor modifications. The elimination of the dizzy does really help you set the timing and no more points to change.

no points on a 3L dizzy

If keeping the cis, I second keeping the dizzy. Also, put a pop off valve on it, if not there already.

If yours is '80 - '83, ARP sells O2 bungs. Also, if 80 - 83, there is a grn-wht test lead on the harness that you can plug into your dwell meter to set mixture, which is nifty.

Did the engine come with the fuel pump/accumulator/6pin cd ?

good luck - get to work!

I was told it was an 83 and it came with the fuel system, 6 pin cd, computer, tach and 02 sensor. It already has a popoff valve as well.

I will check for the green wire later.

Anyone have contact info for Kennedy? I could also use photos of 3.0 set ups if anyone has them.

Thanks all!

Jeff

If you have an 83 than chances are you have the later style case too which has the side oil drain and no sump plate.

http://www.kennedyeng.com/ is there web page which has a phone number

Do you need photos of it setup in a 914 or just general phostos?

YOu can check the engine number here : http://www.adelgigs.com/911scproductiondata.shtml

Isn't the acculmulator for hot starts? You may be able to delete/bypass this if you don't have it.

The motor is a *64D2000*+ which is what I was told, an 83 SC.

I am looking for 914 set ups and any tips going forward.



I have it but do I need it?

Jeff

I have a 3.0L from an 83 SC. I kept the stock CIS and Dizzy. Got an adapter plate and clutch assembly from Kennedy Engineering and used the flywheel from the 3.0 with my 901 tranny. Runs great.

Yes, I spoke with Kennedy this afternoon and they said I could buy the adaptor ring, clutch and TO Bearing for $525 new or I could have a flywheel made for $300 plus the clutch kit for $355 totaling $655.

That does seem the cheepest and easiest. How hard is it to set the timing?

What about the accumulator? Did you use it or leave it off?

Jeff

with cis you may need to time off the front pulley which isn't much fun, but once done, its done for good.

re: accumulator. I'm sure there are those who know cis more than I, but since you have it, since it's there for a reason, why not use it?

As for wiring, it's not too bad, but it's too much to describe here. If you have a factory -6 you can get a schematic from Art at:

8514 Los Olivos Dr
San Gabriel, CA 91775-1855
(626) 614-8030

Thanks for the info, keep it comming!



Did you keep it?

Jeff

yep, accumulater installed.

I think you'll need to take off the oil cooler and have a 90 degree put on the inlet and adapt it to your existing lines. Which means yanking the whole induction and shroud.

the flywheel bolts go bare against the flywheel. the torque spec wasn't enough to keep them tight. Mine came loose, but I caught it before disaster. I heard of a case where a flywheel came off. I then put the sob's on gud and snug and used threadlocker.

OK, so I need to remove the oil cooler? I was told that I could adapt the oil lines to the existing oil sump. I thought the existing cooler remained the same. Do I need to remove the cooler and adapt the the lines also?

Jeff

Ok, I'll be the first to say;

Another solution to the clutch is to use a 70-71 pull type clutch. It will work with the stock 3.0 flywheel, and the 70-71 911 clutch disk. But you have to find the correct throwout arm and pivot bolt, and redrill your bell housing pivot mount. It moves 14mm outboard. You also get rid of the pulley on the side of the transmission that way too. You use a 75 911 clutch cable to run everything. This also removes all the load on the clutch tube in the chassis, so you never have to worry about it breaking again.

The oil cooler will have to be altered. If you leave it stock, the line will hit the Left trailing arm. There are 2 ways. 1. You have the tube cut, and you have a 90 degree fitting tig welded onto the tube. 2. You remove the tube completely, and put an AN fitting on the flange.

Either way, you have to pull the cooler.

Thats the kind of stuff I need to know! Thanks

Keep it comming!

YES

I would love to see some photos

Jeff

one way is like so...

Can I use the 2.0L oil cooler and avoid the cutting and welding?

Jeff

I wondered about that too, but I don't know.

No.. the 2.0L 911 cooler comes straight out the end, and will hit the trailing arm.

You need to alter it, and it is smaller than the 3.0 cooler that is on your engine.

I have a 2.0 914-6 cooler. That will work wont it?

Jeff

Yep the 2.0 cooler is smaller and may not provide enough cooling for the 3.0.

Dave at GPR cuts the end of the line off the 911 types and uses rubber lines (at least he said he did with his 3.2). The other and more like stock route is to have it welded with a 90degree angle.

If you have the accumulator you may as well use it, If you were worried about wieght or a place to mount it you could bypass. If you bypass it you and you ran into hot start issues you could always just add it in.

I think the tin is the same up with all except the 3.6.

I assume you have a stock six, your mount should work fine with the 3.0.

You should take pictures as you go along and post them here.

I was planning on photographing every step. I am still looking for another engine stand and I have to build a rotisserie before I get started.



Does Dave do this for others? How much? How do I contact him?

Jeff

http://www.gprparts.com/ is his web site.

It is best to call and ask for Dave.

If I recall the SC's have the line from the oil cooler fitted by a rubber hose and clamp so no big difference. I think the biggest reason why people dont do this is because the 90degree fitting lets you use the stock line with the fittings on either end

You may not even have to cut if you can get the hose to bend without kinking or rubbing.

Not sure about the fitting on the other end at the tank though.

here is a picture of the 911 setup, you can see the hose and clamps on both ends.

(picture from pelican parts )

here is a stock 911 picture with te clamps at both ends.

Clewett does the oil cooler mod. for 145.00
http://www.clewett.com/

Thanks, that seems reasonable!

Jeff