Seems like a few of us here are contemplating it. How about sharing some of your experiences, successes and failures.

thanks,
dr

I've done many rebuilds on Big Block Chevy's. But I think your question is directed to the type IV. I never split the case before. But I've stripped everything off including the cylinders. Cleaned everything off, using carb cleaner, replaced the rings and one cylinder, (scored badly used one off a 412) Honed the cylinders for new ring seat, had the valves checked, and reassmbled everything including the stock injection. Engine ran great! just not enough brute HP for an "X" Big Block Chevy drag racer. So that's when I pulled it out and the rest is soon to be history....

lots of fun. get a workbench to do it on (i dont have one of those nifty stands). just take your time. my dad and i did it in about a week on and off (after work) and such.

The first motor I have ever built would be the 2270 that is now residing in my 914 (it started life in my Bug).

It took a very long time to build, and it came apart many times as well as plans changed.

The first time it fired up it self destructed by a cam/lifter mismatch (not my mistake, either). So, out it came and all apart again.

Build #2 has been working well...

If I were to do it over again, I'd do in in 1/4 of the time, spend 75% as much, and probably make it bigger.

Later,
Tom

How exactly would you do that? Or were you being facetious

Done quite a few aircooleds- mostly beetles on the floor of the garage. If you can do a beetle, you can do a teener as they are almost the same.

No big magic to doing it if it's stock. Hardest part is cleaning 15-30 years worth of crud off the engine.

Last one I did was my 73 superbeetle. Sucked a valve on the all original engine at 190,000 miles. Complete rebuild was $600 and 2 weeks (lotta cleaning and I'm getting older and slower). Stuck the engine back into the car and turned the key. Started right up and ran perfectly.

In my glory days with prepped parts, we could slap one together overnight for the autocross race the next day.

None of my engines failed other than the superbeetle at 250,000 miles. Stretched an exhaust valve at 60k miles- a common problem for beetle valves. Shut it off before it broke.

Teener engines are almost the same, but a little more tricky. Watch your torques.

Ken

1st one was a 1915 cc big cam port polish balance dual carb heavy breathing monster in a 74 super beetle. Stock tires with hub caps signal orange with a burn mark on the lid. Boy was that dude in the chromed out low slung 67 suprised when I ran from him like he was standing still.

2nd was 2.0L type IV big cam, port polish, balanced, dual valve spring euro piston. Ran pretty good till boy broke it. This time will try and get it leak free.

Joe, what was the final prognosis on that motor anyway? Did you find the washer?

I did Chebbies when I was younger.....a long time ago.

My first & only aircooler is the 2.7L in my car at present. There are about 3-4 times as many bits in a 9eleben motor.
I bought a rebuild kit (containing most all of the expendables). It was about 600 bucks and contained more shit than you can imagine......pretty intimidating just to look at all that stuff, knowing that it all goes....somewhere.

It took about 6 months to gather all the stuff I needed(wanted)and to put it together. The only problem I have is an oil leak that I can't fix without splitting the cases. It then took about 6-8 mos. of fooling around to get it running "just right"(aka: close enuff).

Now days I'm resisting the urge to take it apart to see how everything looks. I've been abusing the hell out of it, but it just keeps coming back for more. I got to feeling sorry for it and replaced the 7300 rpm pill with a 7100.

Total price for the longblock was bout 5500-6000 for a 200hp+ motor.....eat your heart out Jake.....haven't flipped any shit his way, lately

Up to my ears in projects. I have this on the back burner till I get back from Seattle. Motor is disconnected from car except motor mounts.

Had to put tires and tie rod ends on the Explorer yesterday. Plus alignment, new shocks, changed rear end lube, trans fluid, engine oil, heater valve broke changing air filter, replaced and changed antifreeze (while I was in there) heater hoses, Brake fluid. I think every fluid in the damn thing is now new. Most of this was due anyway Been packing tools, straps, flashlights, plastic, couple boards, Suppose a shovel wouldn't be a bad idea. 20 ft of heavy rope. Do ya think I could find an ice scraper in Mississippi. finally in a box in the attic I found a little one.

Had to watch the race today. Guess Kenseth should rebuild his own motor

I bought all the pieces and had a local builder put together the short block (case/crank/rods) I did the rest. It was pretty stright foward and this was before all the web sites and forums. This time I'm doing all myself.

Paul

My first air-cooled engine was the 1600 Type 1 in my 69 Bus. I did that while in the Foreign Auto Repair class through the community schools in Hermosa Beach back in 1980-82. Since then I've done more Type 1's than I can remember, including one on top of a milk crate on my in-laws back porch that was out of the car & back in again in about 12 hours.

My only Type IV was the 2.0L in my son's 75 bus. I tore it all down myself, but due to time constraints I had Competition Engineering build the long block. I've got one of those engine stands in my carport waiting for the next Type IV project - building a new 2.0L for my 73 914 that will have the trick things like Euro pistons that will make it a great ride. After that will probably come rebuilding one of my spare 1.7L engines to do a Type IV conversion on Mike's 65 Bug.

If you don't own one, get your self a copy of the "How to Keep Your Volkswagen Alive - A Guide for the Compleat Idiot" by John Muir. You may need other advice on what to put into your engine, but for a stock rebuild you can follow his steps and it will come out great.

The 2.0l in the bus was done on the in-laws porch to but not on a milk crate.