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ottox914
Just a little teaser on this winters project. Last winter I dug into this little update:

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...c=53733&hl=

This winter will be phase 2. This photo will show some of the goodies under the tree, which will soon be under/on the car. The WRX intercooler has one round inlet on the back, and 2 smaller oval outlets under the opposite end tank. These will each exit and attach to some CB performance turbo "hats" for the ITB's that have 2" tubes welded to them. Some silicone elbows, and we're good. The intercooler will mount on braces running across the engine bay to support the intercooler as close to the GT lid as possible. I'll see how it goes, and probably do some yarn tuft testing to see about airflow in and around that lid, but I could always use the SDS computer to switch on either a puller or pusher fan below the intercooler based on boost, if needed. The turbo will mount on a custom flange/adaptor to be built to connect the turbo to the collector of the Kerry Hunter exhaust system. The turbo is a small Garrett VNT. The compressor map looks like a good match for this motor. I'm expecting the VNT turbo to give good low rpm thorttle response. Starting out at 5-6 psi, I'd be happy to see 10 when I'm done, but will tune to run safely on 93 pump gas and see where we end up. Off the back of the transmission, where the factory exhaust hanger mounted, I'll mount a similar hanger to support the turbo and exhaust system. A Tildon differential pump will return the oil to a willing valve cover. Oil will be taken from a "T" at the pressure sending unit on the case. There is a blow off valve to be added to the intercooler, and a mocal thermostat/sandwitch plate adaptor for the oil cooler, which has a thermostat controlled fan. I'll be adding an ignition switched relay for power to the fan and scavenge pump, so both will have power when the key is on. The pump will run continously, the fan when the thermo switch tells it to. Add some pressure side stainless or aluminum tubing from the turbo, thru the back engine tin, into the round inlet on the intercooler and we're done. Except for another trip to the LSE dyno, for some additional tuning. I'll keep posting as progress would warrent.
Chris Pincetich
Sweet! I like the the header collector mount/interface and that you don't plan to cut anywhere other than the tin. Maybe even use the J tube hole in the tin? Not really the best location though...Good luck!
ottox914
Now that the holidays have come and gone, and my real job is a bit slower, more time is availible to hang out in the shop. Here are a few mock up photos of the ITB hats, intercooler location, and boost gauge. The angle of the charge lines coming off the hats looks a bit extreme, but some of that is the perspective of the photo. The WRX intercooler has 2 outlets on the underside of the end tank, one will go left, one to the right, and these will drop down an inch or so from the IC, so they will end up lining up fairly well with the ITB hats. Next monday I have a couple friends coming over, and I'm taking the day off to make some time on this project. Look for more photos and progress reports then-

Photos were too big- will re-shoot and add them later tonight.
Mark Henry
Very cool David. We're thinking along the same lines...

I'm thinking about a DTM set-up for more clearance, with the SDS and 94mm Nickies with cima b pistons.

We should compare notes and maps as we go.

Post some pics of the intercooler outlets please.

Take a look at iamchappy's turbo /6 for some ideas on how to plumb the rear end turbo oil return...I think he had to make a small catch tank.

What's the Garrett VNT off of? how much?
GS Guy
Cool project David!

You do know the two openings on the one side of the intercooler are inlets right? The large 2-3/4" round opening the outlet? I don't know if it makes any difference to run it backwards?? Maybe have to reposition the blow off valve to the inlet side? Normally, the WRX runs a couple of cast elbost that bolt up to the 2 openings, which connect to a Y pipe and then to the turbo outlet.
I like the project though! DO IT!
Jeff
Mueller
QUOTE(ottox914 @ Jan 8 2007, 12:19 PM) *

Now that the holidays have come and gone, and my real job is a bit slower, more time is availible to hang out in the shop. Here are a few mock up photos of the ITB hats, intercooler location, and boost gauge. The angle of the charge lines coming off the hats looks a bit extreme, but some of that is the perspective of the photo. The WRX intercooler has 2 outlets on the underside of the end tank, one will go left, one to the right, and these will drop down an inch or so from the IC, so they will end up lining up fairly well with the ITB hats. Next monday I have a couple friends coming over, and I'm taking the day off to make some time on this project. Look for more photos and progress reports then-

Photos were too big- will re-shoot and add them later tonight.

no need to re-shoot, "google" Irfanview, it is a free and simple photoeditor..



ottox914
Here come some pics- being only slightly more computer literate that a rock, I didn't realize I had a re-size function availible with what was already on the laptop. Oh well, live and learn. Maybe this is a good advertisement for SDS. So easy I can do it!

So far as progress, spent the afternoon finishing up on cleaning and lubing up the door locks and internal door mechanisms. Had one of the plastic odd shaped thingies give way on the driver door, so it seemed a good time to go thru both doors. Got the ITB "hats" placed, and have the intercooler perched on some boxes to find a good location. Tomorrow is a big road day for me, but wednesday should be a soft day at the real job, my wife is out of town that PM, so I should be able to work on the car, eat pizza, and toss back a few beers, all with great success, so expect more pics late wed.

I've included some photos of the L and R sides with the ITB hats and intercooler. The perspective of the photo makes the 2" inlet to the hats look like its angled way down and away. In reality, when you figure the drop off the intercooler for the new charge pipes, things should line up pretty well for a dual hump 90 degree elbow, 2 of which are on order.

The boost gauge is from... a subaru. Why I haven't just done the whole subie swap is beyond me- the reason for this gauge is its small size, and its case is rubber, so I can trim the back of the gauge off 1/4 inch or so, and it'll fit the short space avalible between the dash and top of the steering collum, with out overhanging and getting in the way of the steering wheel.
ottox914
Here's a couple of the GT lid with the goodies underneath it. I'll post more answers to ?'s after dinner- Mrs Me has called up, its ready, so, gotta go-
Crazyhippy
QUOTE(ChrisNPDrider @ Dec 25 2006, 02:23 PM) *

Sweet! I like the the header collector mount/interface and that you don't plan to cut anywhere other than the tin. Maybe even use the J tube hole in the tin? Not really the best location though...Good luck!



Now that is a Neat thought.... Spin the intercooler 180* from where you have it now, and move it back 4" or so. Make the outlets from the intercooler go due left and right and into the sides of the ITBs.

I'm interested in the results you get.

BJH
ottox914
Mark Henry- Why DTM, besides your selling Jakes parts in Canada? Won't that be a higher profile, in terms of the overall engine? It would give you some more room up in front of the engine if you were thinking of some header/turbo mount up there. I had some thoughts in that direction, a flat fan over the engine, either electric or crank driven, intercooler mounted on top of that, ITB's, and a turbo mounted in front of the motor, just never got around to getting serious about that wild plan.

We can probably share some SDS notes, but depending on your cam, and turbo, this may or may not be helpful at all.

I'll shoot and post some intercooler shots tomorrow night.

I've talked to Chappy a bit, and done some research of my own. The catch can is more to have a spot for the remaining oil in the lines to the turbo to go, once you shut down, as the turbo spins down, there will be some residual pressure in those lines, and when the scavenge pump shuts off, there is no where for that oil to go, as the turbo spins down, so it can seep past the seals and give you a "puff" at start up, and possibly shorten the seal life. Longer lines between the turbo outlet and scavenge pump will allow more volume for this oil to fill, so long as it doesn't have to go up hill. I plan to add a small sump to my system anyway.

I had an Aerocharger brand (no longer in business) VNT turbo on a ford focus, and was spoiled with the response. I researched availible VNT's and found the VW TDI's to use one of 2 different models, the VNT-15 and VNT-17. The compressor map of the -15 was better suited to what I wanted to do, so I found a NIB turbo on evil bay a couple yrs ago, snatched it up, and kept it on the shelf till I was ready to do this. Don't recall the $$$ exactally, as its been several yrs. 3-400 seems to ring a bell though.


GS guy- yes, I an using the IC "backwards", but airflow is airflow. If you snoop around the turbo topic, and specifically air to water intercoolers, you'll find guys taking ford Tbird IC's, jacketing them, and turning them into air to water systems. With all this going on, reversing the air flow doesn't scare me off of the utility and packaging of this IC with 3 holes in it. As I'm going to try to mount the IC as close to the GT lid as possible, I'll be making a block off plate for the subi blow off valve mount, and adding it in line between the turbo and IC. It could still mount on the IC if I wanted it to, or I could buy 2 BOV's and mount one in each ITB hat. That might be cool, but why buy 2 when 1 will do? This is not a bling-mobile honda we're talking about here...

Mr CrazyHippy- Using the hole in the engine tin for the "J" tube passed thru my mind also, but with the ITB's more to the rear of the engine bay, the packaging of the parts I had, things just worked out better this way. The charge air from the turbo will come up under the trunk, and thru the back verticle engine tin, where a 90 degree elbow will bring it up towards the IC at about a 45 degree angle, and another 90 degree elbow will take it into the back of the IC. I'm not the most visual person in the world, so if that was not explained well enough, the photos will make more sense once I get that far.


This is sort of the inspiration for this little adventure: www.ststurbo.com. I will be adding a pressure switch after the scavenge pump, and running that to the parking brake light on the dash. I put the BMW 320 front calipers on my car, and moved my fronts to the back, and as such, have no parking brake anyway, might as well use that big light for something.
Crazyhippy
That is a perfectly fine description. Looks like fun...

BJH
Mark Henry
QUOTE(ottox914 @ Jan 8 2007, 11:54 PM) *

Mark Henry- Why DTM, besides your selling Jakes parts in Canada? Won't that be a higher profile, in terms of the overall engine? It would give you some more room up in front of the engine if you were thinking of some header/turbo mount up there. I had some thoughts in that direction, a flat fan over the engine, either electric or crank driven, intercooler mounted on top of that, ITB's, and a turbo mounted in front of the motor, just never got around to getting serious about that wild plan.

We can probably share some SDS notes, but depending on your cam, and turbo, this may or may not be helpful at all.



I have the DTM mocked up in the car now, the amount of room in front of the engine is huge!
I should be able to mount the turbo in front high enough to drain into the sump, while building the tin so that it is still technically under the car...I may even have enough room to do the same with the intercooler. I'd have to feed it via a scoop under the car.

Our fuel maps will be different but other points in the map may be the same.
ottox914
Not alot of turbo specific progress today, but some photos. Work kept getting in the way, and the shop was freezing cold- I could see my breath inside! Oh well, the owner is letting my car spend the winter there for free, and if he has no work for a day in the shop and cuts the heat, who am I to complain?

Today I picked up some aluminum stock to mount the intercooler, and got the thermostat/sandwich plate adaptor installed, so I can mount and run lines to the oil cooler.

Below is a photo of the underside of the WRX intercooler, showing the 2 outlets.

Next are a couple of photos of the thermostat/sandwich plate adaptor. Yes, doing one of Jakes full flow systems would be better, and yes, doing AN fittings and hose would be cooler, but this is only phase 2, remember? The $$$ I save by not dropping the engine and doing Jakes full flow, or not doing the braided/AN stuff will go along ways towards some of the special fabrication I can't do myself.
ottox914
After removing the old filter and draining the oil, I pre-lubed the new filter, oiled the rubber gasket in the adaptor, slid it over the center piece, and using a 1" socket, tightened the center piece to the existing oil filter location on the block. After adding a new Mahle filter, you'll see it doesn't even extend below the engine mounting bar. The thermostat adaptor came from: BAT in Florida. Here's the rest of the photos-

And- anyone using this thermostat/adaptor know which is the line out, and line in for the oil flow? There were no directions in the box. Does it matter? The instructions for the cooler I'll be using note a specific in and out for that part, I just wanted to be sure to match everything up correctly. On to the photos-
ottox914
1-16-07 updates- got the oil cooler installed- sort of. I'll be taking it out to add the fittings and connect the hoses, but here's how it went:

first photo is a hard to cut up trunk, but then again, I put holes in it for the rear sway bar, so whats the deal with 4 more?

second photo is 4 perfectly sized holes, courtesy of photo three, the unibit!

*I went back and forth from under the car to in the trunk at least a half a dozen times to decide where to drill. I then laid the cooler out in the trunk, marked for holes, drilled 2 sizes of pilot hole, then had at it with the unibit. In retrospect, I should have moved things to the outside of the car 1/2 an inch or so, the "bumps" in the trunk carpet would have been less if I had put all the nuts in the low spots of the trunk. Oh well, whats done is done, and with the rubber insulation mat and carpet in, you don't really notice the bumps that much.

photo 4 is the cooler, wired up. you need to attach a wire from the thermostat to the fan motor, attach the other wire to the thermostat to a (+) with 15 amp fuse, and attach the other wire from the fan motor to ground. The ground will be going back by the transmission, and attaching at the braded ground strap. the (+) will be going to the back of the verticle engine tin, where I will be installing a relay to power the fan and scavenge pump. I'll be moving my "hot start" relay to that location as well, so there will be 2 side by side.
ottox914
Mounting the cooler. The threaded rod went thru the trunk, with a nut, lock washer, and flat washer inside the trunk. I put a flat, lock, and nut up the rod under the trunk, and tightened it all up. Those new ratcheting wrenches sure made this easy.

In the second photo, I have added some cheep hose over the threaded rod and nut, hiding it all, cleaning up the look a little, and getting ready for photo 3.

In photo 3, I have added a washer and nut, to tighten up the hose. I tightened the nut so that each rod has the same length of threads showing. I then added 1/2 inch of hose over the nut. I then added the cooler, 1/2 inch more hose, and a washer and nut to finsh it off.

Photo 4 shows the cooler mounted. I'm hoping that due to the cooler holes being much bigger than the threaded rod, and that the mounts are sandwiched between 1/2 inch of rubber hose on each side, that this will allow for a sort of shock mounting to allow a little flexability in the mounts, should the need for some flex arrise, thus preventing the cooler itself from flexing and cracking/leaking.

I still have to remove the cooler to attach the power/fuse to the temp sensor, attach the barbed hose fitings, connect the lines, and I have some lock nuts to put on after the last bit of hose and washer, to try to keep everything togather with out having to really crank it down- I couldn't see how I could keep my shock mounting and tighten/compress everything enough to use a lock washer on the bottom, as I did on the top.

Monday I have my friends Lee and Dave-o, the fearless fabricator coming over for the day. Hopefully I'll have photos of the intercooler mounted, boost gauge mounted and hooked up, and maybe some intercooler piping started if we're lucky. We'll see how it goes and report back tuesday.
Andyrew
those are really long threads...

Get 1in long one's.. not 5!!!

The rest of it looks good!
Crazyhippy
have to space the cooler away from the floor for airflow....

Nicely done.

BJH
ottox914
QUOTE(Crazyhippy @ Jan 13 2007, 10:52 PM) *

have to space the cooler away from the floor for airflow....

Nicely done.

BJH



I was looking at the picture last night thinking the same thing. When I take it appart to add the hose fittings, I'll cut some 1" hose "spacers" and put them in place of the first 1/2" bit of hose thats on there now. I'll get a thin rubber grommit to lay over the bottom washer, then add the nylock nuts, and I'll buy a little depth that way, and still hopefully keep a little of my shock mounting. That was my plan from the start- being able to adjust the depth of the fan as I go, since I didn't really know how it'd all fit togather. The fan is designed as a "puller", but still it should have more air space than it does.
Dave-O
Looks good Dave! What kind of stock did you get to mount the intercooler, 1"x1" square? We'll be sure to spend some time in the McMaster Carr catalog for prettier studs.

See you tomorrow,

Andyrew
Oh, I thought that you were going to cut the trunk.. I see.

Then I would put it at an angle... (bend the tabs to be flat to the trunk) so when the fan is on the air is pushed towards the back, Just a slight angle would induce a whole lot more airflow over that cooler...

Just a thought. But I get your idea!
ottox914
Lee and Dave-o came over for the day. We played some guitar, messed with the yellow car, made some good progress. Did some electrical upgrades, re-did the oil cooler, its much better now, got it connected, test fired, no leaks, tore out the back pad, and got the intercooler mounts made. Forgot to bring a camera. Will try to get back to the shop tuesday afternoon for some snapshots, and will post more then.

The to-do list remains long. I need to get the boost gauge mounted, wired, plumbed. Need to get vacuume lines run to the RR fuel pressure regulator, blow off valve, and turbo. Need to move the cold start solinoid, and add another one to power the scavenge pump and the oil cooler fan. Need to make some intercooler piping. Need to run oil lines to the turbo, mount the scavenge pump, pressure switch, and return line.

Then get it off to LSE for fabrication of the intercooler to the ITB hat lines, and the turbo mount.

Then figure out how to post a movie to this site...
Andyrew
post it on youtube, and link here.
ottox914
Some progress from today and tonight. re-did the oil cooler, I didn't like how tight it was to the underside of the trunk. Didn't come out quite as well as I had hoped, but its pretty good overall.

Since these photos the threaded rod has been cut off closer to the nuts, and some protection had been added to the hoses where they run across the edge of the engine metal. The black ground wire has been run under the trunk and now grounds with the transmission ground strap. I need to get a relay installed, and connect the power for the fan, and this part of the project is done.
ottox914
Also got the fancy intercooler mounts, made by our own fearless fabricator, Dave-O, painted with several coats, installed, and intercooler mounted. I expect the IC to come out for other work to be done, but its kinda cool to see it mounted up, ready for piping.
Andyrew
Thats lookin much betta!!!

Everything is looking really good!!
Dave-O
Looks good Dave! I can't wait to see the turbo plumbing done.
Brando
Do like on 930s and force most of the engine cooling air through the intercooler. smile.gif
ottox914
Finally some progress. With work, Christmas, New Years, teaching snowboarding, our end of the season snoboard safari to the mountains, progress has been slow. Got back in the shop for a couple hours this afternoon and got the topside charge piping done. There will need to be an adaptor made to go from the WRX intercooler to the charge lines to the ITB's, so the final position of those pipes may change slightly. I just cut off the 90 degree bends to about the right length for now.

Crunch time, as this friday I load the car up, and saturday it is delivered to LSE Peformance for the final fabrication of the adaptors for the intercooler and turbo to the collector, then some dyno time, and April 21-22 is our club novice school, I plan to have it ready for that to scare some newbies during the lunch time, when we allow the instructors to take their own cars out and give rides to the students.

On with the photos: these are of the left side ITB plumbing. The angle of the "hat" for the ITB, which was purchased from CB performance, was just about right with a straight section of silicone.
ottox914
Here are some shots of the back of the intercooler, and the line to take in the boost from the turbo. I found a place for silicone that made a 3" to 2" 90 degree elbow, which was exactally what I needed. I still need to run the line thru the engine back metal to connect to this line off the intercooler.
ottox914
Here are the connections for the right side ITB. I needed to use a 45 degree silicone elbow to make this side line up a little bettter. As noted, once the final adaptors are made for the connection to the intercooler, the allignment may change a little, but this is basically how it will go.
ottox914
Plenty of work yet to be done. Need to mount and connect the lines to the puke tank for the heads and case breather lines. Need to run vaccume lines to the blow off valve, rising rate fuel pressure regulater, and runs lines to the dash for the boost gauge, and mount that. Need to finish the charge line thru the back engine tin. Need to run oil lines from the pressure sensor area to the turbo, turbo to the scavenge pump, pump back to the block/heads. Need to finish bracket for turbo and scavenge pump, and the wireing to the pump, cold start solinoid, and oil cooler fan. In other words, alot of late nights to have this thing ready to tow 200 miles to LSE. Expect plenty of updates over the coming week.
iamchappy
Looking good, it looks like you've got it well on it's way, turbo brother...
Dave-O
I like that plumbing a lot! I wish I either lived closer or was less busy so I could help you get it ready. We'll have to swap drives sometime...I'm sure I could get you a little time in a certain red BMW happy11.gif
JPB
Nice work and looks killer clean mister thumb3d.gif
pankopp
waiting for an update! .... show us.... please


oh yeah, what brand oil cooler and oil adapter are you using, just wondering...



Thanks!
ottox914
I've had way to much of my real job to deal with so far this week. Tonight the trailer comes to haul the car to the dyno for final fabrication and tuneing. Last night, got the puke tank installed, interior put back togather and cleaned up, and routed most of the vac lines for the rising rate FPR, blow off valve, and to the turbo for the boost controler. Need a few "T" and 90 degree fittings I couldn't get from the hardware store at 11pm. So, alot of work done, but not alot of photo progress. I'm going to try to get to the car by 1-2 today, switch into mad mechanic mode, call in a little help, and try to get things as done as they need to be by 9-10pm tonight. I'll shoot photos and load them over the weekend.

The thermostat/sandwich plate adaptor is a mocal, purchased from BAT in Florida. It mounts between the oil filter and case. When using the good quality OEM filters, the filter does not extend below the engine mounting bar, so no worries there on a lowered car. The combination oil cooler/thermostatically controlled fan came straight out of the summit racing web site. Its a B&M part # 70298 in the cooling section of the catalog, if you have one. It comes with the cooler, fan, and thermostat to control it all. Just add key switched power and ground, and you're in business. No mounting hardware was included, you have to come up with that on your own.
iamchappy
I've been looking into an temp adjustable fan switch for my intercooler , came across the Davis Craig stuff I could have the fans kick in at 90º or over.

( http://www.hrpworld.com/index.cfm?form_pro...;action=product

I am also considering a boost activated switch with a delay shut of relay to allow it to run on for a few minutes after it is activated. Right now I have it wired to a manual switch. I have a 4lb pressure switch plumbed in already to activate something..
ottox914
The SDS on my car will do a single ground switched item, either rpm based, or boost based. If I need an intercooler fan, I'll hook up the extra wire to the SDS, and have it switch on the intercooler fan using the boost based switch. I'll need to figure out some sort of delay also. I'm thinking of a manual ground switch for use when auto crossing. I can leave the fan on all the time.

I may have a gizmo to help you. Its a probe style thermostatically controlled relay. You stick the probe in the fins of the IC, and can set the relay to activate at a certain temp. This does not provide the delay you are looking for, but would provide a temp referenced switch. Let me know if you're interested.




QUOTE(iamchappy @ Apr 6 2007, 07:08 AM) *

I've been looking into an temp adjustable fan switch for my intercooler , came across the Davis Craig stuff I could have the fans kick in at 90º or over.

( http://www.hrpworld.com/index.cfm?form_pro...;action=product

I am also considering a boost activated switch with a delay shut of relay to allow it to run on for a few minutes after it is activated. Right now I have it wired to a manual switch. I have a 4lb pressure switch plumbed in already to activate something..

iamchappy
The probe like you mention i found was the Davis Craig one that used a similar probe and was adjustable from 90º up most others I've seen were adjustable from 180º up.
ottox914
More updates but still not done. Progress is moving at the speed of your average sundial these days- work is a B#@$*& lately. I obviously did not make my dead line to get the car dyno ready by last weekend. My current hope is to have it N/A ready this weekend, because next weekend is the first of 2 weeekends of novice school driver training, and the only thing better than riding with the newbies in their cars getting them to go faster is scaring the piss out of them in your own car...

On to the photos. Worked on more intercooler piping, have the section done from the intercooler back down thru the back engine tin. Came up with a couple good ideas for mounting the turbo and getting the exhaust to turbo section fab'd. Re-mounted the oil sending unit, adding a "T" for the supply line to the turbo. Used 2" of copper. Before you all jump on me for that, let me say Brad Mayeur built the motor, used the same thing, and had no fears of failure. Good enough for Brad, good enough for me.

To be done: its still a long list. Ready for novice school: fix pulled exhaust stud, get wireing done to the hot start relay, extend some wires for the oil sender, swap out the turbo ITB hats for the air cleaners, put sway bars back togather, she should be good. Ready for dyno time: finish intercooler piping, get turbo mount and adaptor figured out/built, build some flange adaptors for the I/C pipes to the ITB hats, run the oil supply and return lines, mount boost gauge and run lines to that, and whatever else comes to mind.

These photos are of the puke tank for the case and head venting, left and right ITB's and piping w/out the intercooler in the way, and the sending unit. I'll block off the air space around the oil sending unit with some silver aluminum tape, like is used in HVAC work, then cover that with black duct tape. Looking under the hood down in the depths of the engine you'll never know.
ottox914
Next photos are of the pipeing from the intercooler to the back engine tin, the pipeing on the intercooler, and the hole in the back tin. This hole is big enough that I'll add some small hose split down the length to cover that sharp edge, and add a 2" section of silicone coupler around the charge pipe as it passes thru the hole to snug things up and allow some movement w/out rattling and squeeking me to death. The 2 smaller holes below the bigger one were for the hot start solinoid, which I'll be moving to the other side of the tin, and extending the wires to reach it.

The sad thing about all this is that I'm already thinking of NEXT winter, when I might try to take it all appart again and clean/detail/paint everything and cherry it out a little more...
Crazyhippy
Keeping the intercooler fan on is a good idea. The only time the fan (w/ a temp/boost based switch and delay) will ever shut off is cruising on the highway, and possibly momentarily in stop and go traffic... Wire it to the ignition switch and know the intercooler is as taken care of as possible.

I'm going to be adding a fan(s) to my intercooler too, I see intake temps in the 120-130 range pretty often. They are lower on the freeway (below 75ish, no boost, and lotsa air) and short term stop and go traffic (before heatsoak gets it)

A HUGE fan on the dyno was good for 13hp.

BJH
Krieger
Get it to work really well, then paint/detail it. You never quite know about these odd unforseen gremlins that may cause you to take it apart a few more times and scratch/chip it in the process. Get-r-done!
Tobra
You could put some misters over the IC and hook it to a windshield washer pump.

Water evaporating takes a lot of heat with it.
ottox914
Good things come to those who wait... well, I've been working on this project way to long to sit back and wait for it to finish itself. If I'm lucky, I get a couple hours a week, one night a week, so its been slow going...

As our novice driving school is this weekend, I have focused the last couple weeks on getting it n/a ready, and doing it RIGHT the first time, rather than slapping it togather and haveing to re-do a bunch of stuff.

So, not alot of turbo ready photos this time around, but getting some of the bits and pieces in place.

A friend of mine, (not dave h, the fearless fabricator) who is a welding genius (how many of you have welded stainless left handed up inside a 2' round tube about as far as you can reach while looking into a mirror to see what you're doing?) is retiring end of this month, and welcomed the small projects I had, such as the turbo to exhaust adaptor, I/C adaptors, and a few other odds and ends. Much cheeper rates that the shop the car was going to, plus I get to have a hand in the project, which will stay much closer to home. The car WILL go to LSE performance for the dyno tune once all systems are up and operating.

Current status pics- one is wireing to the starter, had to extend some lines and of course shrink tube and shield the lines, next is another view of the starter install. The next is the hot start kit. I know, lots of you say you don't need this, and with the mini gear reduction starter I probably don't need it, but with the added heat of the turbo down there, I thought it couldn't hurt, and besides, I have used one for years with no problems. Last is the power to the oil cooler fan, adding a fused connector, and taking power from the jumper to the hot start solinoid.

I've got a few vacuume lines to buttton up, need to attach the rear sway bar again, get it on the ground and give it a bath, and I should be ready to go for the weekend. Not bringing the sticky rubber, why waste it on the newbies, they'll have a thrill ride enough on a short, twisty course in a 30+ yr old car that keeps up with the new stuff, and beats up on a fair number of those newfangled water cooled cars.

I'm expecting, with my work, house projects, welding time, dyno time for this project to extend to mid summer. Bummer.
Scott-thundercat
any updates?
Nor.Cal.914
How's your progress coming along with this? I'd like to see how you're doing on it! Thanks
-Chris
Scott-thundercat
any new info?
ottox914
Really nothing much new to report. My local mega-fabricator is out of town for the month, so it may be into August before we get the header-collector to turbo adaptor made, the oval intercooler to round I/C piping done, and the shorty tail pipe from the turbo out the back done.

Around the house, we've been working on a bathroom re-model, up to about 10K in materials and counting. This has soaked up much of my time, as the plumbing, electrical, HVAC in this area have all been changed. This is ending up to be not your average slap some paint on it, "flip this house" sort of deal. Lots of natural stone and tile work, cherry wood work, Kohler everything. We do all the labor ourselves.

Back to the car, I've ordered a turbo-tach from one of our members, bigmark. I'll see if I can attach the photo. It should be on the way, and installed next weekend. I've got a couple pulled exhaust studs to be dealing with then too, to tighten up the exhaust to get ready for they turbo. I'll be puttering around with small projects on the car waiting for my fabricator to return home.

I almost find myself second guessing this turbo thing- at our last auto cross, I finished 9th out of 100 cars. How much more power do I really need?
AS MUCH AS IT TAKES!!!

Here's the tach pics.
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