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Mid_Engine_914
to cut steel tubing? I will probably only need to use it a few times a year but I want to make sure it makes accurate mitered cuts...

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http://www.amazon.com/Northern-Industrial-...e=UTF8&s=hi
scotty b
Best bang for the buck IMO. I have used many different cutting apparati and will NEVER buy another "chop" saw! Those cheapo band saws do a DECENT job just don't try and force the cut. Let the saw blade do the werk, and set the guides (if eqipped) as close togother as possible so the blade won't flex. I used a larger wet blade band saw for a while that was nice. I'm looking for a used cold cut now smile.gif P.S. the cheapo band saws are also handy in the upright position for cutting sheet metal patches thumb3d.gif
Mid_Engine_914
Thanks for the advice. thumb3d.gif
PRS914-6
I have a Wilton that is similar. I've used it for years. Two suggestions...

1. DO NOT BUY CHEAP BLADES! You won't find good ones at HF or similar and don't be surprised if a good one cost $15.00-$20.00
2. If you are cutting all thin tubing, get a fine toothed blade. Rule of thumb....3 teeth on the metal. Your blades will llast longer.
Twystd1
Ditto on the good blades.

I use a place called "Industrial Blade" in Santa Ana, Ca.

Fair prices and any length custom to OEM... No problem.

And they make very kewl carbide tipped band saw blades for Aluminum and stainless.....

Clayton
Mueller
also check out ENCO for the saw and blades...one of my best "investments' in my workshop !!!!! burnout.gif
McMark
I'm glad this came up. A chop saw (which I really hate) was on my short list of new tools to buy. I'll go this route instead. THANKS! clap.gif
John
What's the problem with chop saws? I like the one I have.

Those chep-o band saws are OK, but I still like my porta-band better.
Mid_Engine_914
In his "Working With Tubing" DVD Ron Covell uses a band saw to cut tubing so I figured that's the tool to get.

ChrisFoley
I used to have three of them at my shop until I bought a nice big saw. I still use one at the shop and have one at home as well.
They do not cut straight and the angle adjusting slot isn't well formed. The sheet metal support frame sucks, and the motor plate isn't sturdy enough. and so on...
All of these issues can be dealt with if you are patient.
One of the most useful upgrades I recommend is a better support frame made with square tubing.
I also agree about the blade quality. You could buy a 100 ft coil of 1/2" wide Starrett bimetal blade material in a couple of tooth pitches, then find a fabrication shop with a blade welder. Paying them to weld blades should be cheaper than buying finished blades. I think you can get 18 blades from 100 ft.
ChrisFoley
QUOTE(John @ Dec 30 2006, 02:47 AM) *

What's the problem with chop saws? ...

Too loud, messy & smelly, sprays sparks, wastes material, less accurate, leaves a big burr...
brant
QUOTE(Racer Chris @ Dec 30 2006, 06:22 AM) *

I used to have three of them at my shop until I bought a nice big saw. I still use one at the shop and have one at home as well.
They do not cut straight and the angle adjusting slot isn't well formed. The sheet metal support frame sucks, and the motor plate isn't sturdy enough. and so on...
All of these issues can be dealt with if you are patient.
One of the most useful upgrades I recommend is a better support frame made with square tubing.
I also agree about the blade quality. You could buy a 100 ft coil of 1/2" wide Starrett bimetal blade material in a couple of tooth pitches, then find a fabrication shop with a blade welder. Paying them to weld blades should be cheaper than buying finished blades. I think you can get 18 blades from 100 ft.



chris,
where do you buy these 100ft rolls of blade material?

(any online resources?)

brant
Bartlett 914
I get my band saw blades from MSC (mscdirect.com). These guys are huge. Decent prices. They have just about everything industrial you could ask for and more. Enco is also a possibility. MSC owns Enco BTW. I don't own one of the band saws you are looking at. I have a Rollin band saw. This is an upright model. The band assembly is on an incline. The work is hels stationary and the band saw "Rolls" toward the work. I couldn't live without it.
PRS914-6
QUOTE(Racer Chris @ Dec 30 2006, 05:22 AM) *

I also agree about the blade quality. You could buy a 100 ft coil of 1/2" wide Starrett bimetal blade material in a couple of tooth pitches, then find a fabrication shop with a blade welder. Paying them to weld blades should be cheaper than buying finished blades. I think you can get 18 blades from 100 ft.


Tha't exactly what I do. Last roll cost $220.00 but each blade lasts a LONG time. A Harbor Freight blade lasts me about one day
ChrisFoley
Go to the Starrett Catalog. In the Contact us pulldown select Find a Distributor for a local source.
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