Hi All,

A kid that works for me has a '98 range rover that had the compressor for the suspension puke out. We just installed a new air compressor and need to know if there is an easy way to reset the EAS system. Any help would be very appreciated.

Thanks,

BJ

P.S. I checked out a couple of Range Rover forums and really didn't find anything usefull.

what's EAS?

Ha, no shit, thats what I said. Electronic Air Suspension. Very fancy, and expensive. Karl, the guy who works for me just got this thing two weeks ago with no warranty. The dealer he bought it frome quoted around $700 to replace the pump. We were able to find one on ebay for $200 and it took less than 20 minutes to swap out. I have read on the RR forums that the computer that runs the thing needs to be reset another $55. I know it doesn't seem like a lot of money but the kid isn't making a ton of cash, something I don't have controll over, and he could really use a break with this problem.

I really tried to talk him out of buying it in the first place, but you know how kids are. Reminds me of myself!

As a RR owner and having rebuilt the EAS valve block, compressor, and replaced all air springs, I am certain that your friend will need to have the system reset.

I am not sure what sites you have looked at thus far in your research, but I suggest checking out http://www.rangerovers.net and http://www.rover-renovations.com/

Unfortunately, once the EAS goes into fault mode, it needs to be cleared, and either dealers or service shops with the appropriate gear, such as Rovacom, are the only way to get it done. There is a way to jumper it for a quick and dirty way to get the truck off the bump stops and have the ride height drivable so you can get it someplace to have the fault code cleared. Here is the link for the procedure http://www.rover-renovations.com/PigtailProcedure.html

The guy at Rover-Renovations sold me the $10 kit to rebuild the entire valve block. He is knowledgeable about fixing the EAS and is very competitive pricewise if you need to source EAS related parts. I would shoot him an e-mail, which can be found on his web site for further gory details.

Good luck with the fix, and feel free to PM me if needed.

Cheers!

Thanks Hoss. I guess it's off to the dealer.

There is a way to jumper it for a quick and dirty way to get the truck off the bump stops and have the ride height drivable so you can get it someplace to have the fault code cleared. Here is the link for the procedure http://www.rover-renovations.com/PigtailProcedure.html


DO THIS FIRST!!!

It might make the kid happy, and it may be just the normal ride height that is gets reset to.

Also, look at the coil spring "upgrade" is will take out all the air compressor stuff, might be a better and cheaper long term solution for someone with not so much money.

Rich

EAS was the final straw that made me sell my 97!

The procedure for using the jumpers will get the compressor to run and allow the air springs to fill as you manually select them via the jumpers. The EAS computer and ride selection buttons will still show a fault and be inoperable.

My take is that the coil spring "upgrade" is more of a downgrade unless you have specific use requirements that make the EAS undesireable. For example, if you are doing remote severe wheeling and are far from civilization, then it might make sense. They have already bought a new compressor, so the only other items that might need attention are the air springs and valve block. I redid the entire valve block with new o-rings for ten bucks. This part new used to be north of $1,300 from the dealer. It takes some time to do the refirb, but it will last a long time once done. The other items, namely the air springs, only have two issues to deal with. One is the o-rings, which are cheap. The second issue being the bladder, which can be obtained from Arnott Industries for less than $100 per bladder...with a lifetime guarantee (either the truck or you whichever goes first).

I sourced an entire EAS system, including the computer, valve block, springs, compressor, and tank off of EvilBay for $105. I bought another valve block refirb kit for an additional $10 and a compressor piston kit for $40. So, I have an entire system with swapable spares for just north of $150. I like this solution much better than the coil route since my Rover is mostly a street machine.

Bottom line is that there is a way to keep and maintain the air suspension system if want to keep it without breaking the bank. I personally think that the suspension system as designed, and when working correctly, is a key feature of the truck. The hang up for most folks is the cost if you depend on a dealer doing all your service and repairs. (substitute 914 and its features in the sentence for the same conclusion )

It is probably the one system that drives most folks away from Rovers. That, and dropped cylinder liners. My 1993 has 150,000 miles and is a daily driver. I need to get another 150,000 miles out of it before I do an engine rebuild.

Bjorn,

Just a heads up. In my experience, the main reason that compressor fails is because it has been running to long and hard. This condition is usually the result of a leak in the system. Most of the system leaks are related to the spring bladders, o-rings at the springs, or o-rings at the valve block.

Since you just replaced the compressor, I would be sure to double check the bladders and spring o-rings for leaks. I would also spend the $10 or $15 it takes to buy the valve block o-ring kit. It is a six pack on the bench type of job, but it is a cheap way to keep the EAS long term. It will add to your friends frustration and wallet drain if you replace the compressor but do not fix the problem that killed it in the first place.

Cheers.

You guys are awesome. We posted the same question on a rover forum and got two responses so far!

We'll double check the system this weekend and see what happens. The dealer said they checked everything out but I have my doubts as they aren't a Rover dealer.

I really appreciate the help with this. Go's to show this is one of the greatest sites (groups of people) on the net.

Take care,

BJ

BJ,

In that case, I would be leery as to how knowledgeable they are about Land Rover specifics. When you mentioned dealer, I assumed it was a certified Rover dealer. Give it all a good inspection using the technical information on the links I mentioned earlier. It is not that tricky, but if you have not fooled with the EAS before, it can be different.

Shout if you get stuck. Good luck with the fix.