Anyone know where I can buy a new seatbelt bolt plate (the plate welded into the inside of the long to which the seatbelt bolts to)? I had to cut mine out, the bolt was rusted in solid.

Thanks,

Chris

Someone will have to cut you a good one out of a car.

Or fabricate your own.

Do either of you know the thread size and pitch for the seatbelt bolts? I seem to remember hearing at one point that it was actually a US size. Any reason why this wouldn't work (assuming the thread size is right):

http://wescoperformance.stores.yahoo.net/boltkit.html



-Chris

Give that man a cigar! 7/16-20 it is!.

The hex head is 17mm. The sholder is 14mm and the thread is 7/16-20
I have one I could cut out for you but it is really rusty and crappy. You would be better off making a new one or a better donor.

Why can't I just buy the plate above and weld it in?

That part is $3.00! nice and cheap. You may need to modify it. It may need to be narrower a little. I would also grind off the plating where it gets welded. Go for it! It's not worth the trouble to cut out a rusty one for 3 bucks.

BTW the work on your car looks great.

Thanks! Yeah, I would definitely grind that plating off, I don't need to breathe that in!

-Chris

We of course with our longitudinal pieces we make have had the seat belt bolt and plate made which we weld into the longitudinal repair.

Ummm, okay.

because your life depends on it ... ?!?


ever looked at the stock mounting (unrusted)?
it's pretty beefy, and i have a hunch it was done that way for a reason ...
Andy

I'm intimately familiar with the stock mounting, I'm sure you have seen my progress thread. So the question is, have you ever seen the stock mounting method from inside the long? The stock mounting is a plate welded to the inside of the long, a plate very similar to the one pictured. I will know for sure when it is in my hand. Anyway, it is held in place in the long with a few spot welds, and it relies on the integrity of the long for its strength (the plate would have to tear through the long or the threads would have to fail for the seatbelt to fail). I can't remember offhand, but the long probably was double thick in that area.

And yes, the stock mounting I saw was rusty, but that plate in the pic "seems" to be as thick as stock. So I fail to see why using this plate would be any different that what was originally provided. I suppose I am assuming the material properties of the OEM plate and this new plate are the same, but beyond that, what is the problem?

-Chris

I still believe that these are a non-standard METRIC thread (close to 7/16-20).

M11x1.25

The metric tap easily screws into the recepticles like it should, while the 7/16-20 tap cuts new threads if it is inserted. I know racing harnesses typically come with 7/16-20 threaded fasteners and will thread (tightly) into the car.

Here is at least one past thread....Helicoil Inserts for Seat Belts?


just my opinion.

Interesting. Well I got the installation kit anyway with a 7/16-20 bolt, so I should be fine.

-Chris

Also, I contacted the company and the mounting plates are DOT approved. Couldn't get a material spec out of them unfortunately.

because that plate you show doesn't seem to have a lot of thread-depth ...

i'm not worried about the plate folding and tearing through the sheetmetal, i'm worried about stripping the threads in a major impact.

the stock mounting nut on the back is quite deep ...
Andy

i highly doubt they would have used anything BUT metric ...

Andy

I put a pic on the title auto atlanta longitudinal repair showing the nut plate installed on the repair piece. We had to have 500 of these nut plates made (different threads than usual) so if you get into a tight I could have our metal stamper send you one.

As I mentioned, I am aware of the thread pulling out issue, believe you me I'll check to see if the thread engagement is similar. Its DOT approved, so I can only imagine it will be. Worst comes to worse, I thread the bolt in, thread a 7-16-20 nut onto the bolt on the backside, and weld the nut to the plate.

Thanks! Already ordered this other item, but if it doesn't work out, I will keep your offer in mind.

-Chris

Hey! That's my thread! I did a lot of research for that and IMHO the stock bolts are definitely and undeniably M11 x 1.25.

Seat belt fastening hardware is pretty much universal, probably due more to the Feds than practicality. Those commonly available plates are gonna be just fine, as long as you weld them to something equally as sturdy! The Cap'n

Dang! Looks like I jumped a little too quick. It fit a 7/16-20 quite nicely. Closer examination and McMark is correct. M11 X 1.25. Odd size. I have M11 X 1.5 taps and dies but not that one. The diameter is only .004" off.

I tried to find M11 1.25 nuts so that I could make my own.Couldn't find one. I couldn't even find a M11 tap so I just paid someone about $30US to cut 2 good ones out of a parts car and mail them to me.
All installed, original and happy.

You didn't try America's Hardware store (aka The Magic Yellow Book, aka McMaster Carr)

(That is where I bought my tap)

Cant find any M11x1.25 bolts at McMaster Carr

PCA rules for DE and Club Racing do not want you to use stock mounting points, because
they are too dependent on sheetmetal only.

They want you to use a threaded eye (I got mine from Pegasus Racing). Get two huge like 3" "fender washers" that they also sell. Drill a hole through the floor and mount the anchors through the floor with two washers one on top and one on the bottom, then a lock washer and a big nut.

www.pegasusautoracing.com page 22 Forged eyebolt kit, (the eyebolt, nut and backup washer for 5.49 each.

Their eyebolt is 7/16 - 20 and they will screw into the standard mounting points on a 914. Years ago we did that and then welded the eyebolt to the stock mounting point.

thanks dad.