No this is not a piece cut from a rust free California 914 but rather a construction of all of the great aftermarket rust repair panels available for our 914s.
Panels + Pieces consist of:

Upper Longitudinal
Battery Tray
Battery Support
Engine Shelf
Inner Suspension Console
Inner Wheelhouse
Jack Plate
Jack Tube
Outer Firewall
Inner Firewall
Cross Member
Floor Pan Quarter
Door Sill
Door Jamb
Floor Pan Triangle

Just how much is that collection of parts (ballpark as I can't afford it right now anyway)?

Do you also sell the outer trailing arm support (3 bolt holes) that would mount on the long in the wheelhouse? (also how much)

Are these in your new catalog? Are they shown individual pieces?


WaHoo!

Wow.

Very nice!
We're on our way to wleding together a complete 914 with all new metal! Have you ever done the math to figure out how much a 914 built from scratch with all your and Porsche factory "new" parts would cost?? $15-40K?

How much does that cost installed? Seriously

Holy Smokes!

thank you very much! We dream about building a 914 from parts but there are just not enough of the pieces to build a whole 914
At one time our friend Roger Reynolds had almost a complete set to replace his rusty but lost faith when the construction charges were our of sight.
There is however a 914-6 brand new shell in Germany for 16,000, but with that said who would want to build what is now a museum piece that should be displayed in the bare!

When we reconstruct a 914 we add each piece at a time to keep alignment and replace only what is needed to do a proper RUSToration. Actually just yesterday our man Garrett suggested that it would be neat to see all of the pieces we make for the "hellhole" (I hate calling anything on a 914 hell!!) and our fabricator Dan enthusiastically volunteered to put it together. You can imagine my glee in seeing for the first time an assembly of all of the pieces for this area that we have made over the years. Just like a slice of heaven for the 914!!!!

we of course have drawings of the individual pieces but had never assembled it as a whole. I had a good laugh when I first saw it last night!!

that darned outer support is next we are getting more calls every day for it! It has to be made. Anyone out there want to make it??

By looking at the picture of the rear assembly, one can see how leaking acid from the battery would run down the slope of the engine shelf/longitudinal, and lo and behold, the frame member and jack tube and support was right there. No wonder the 914s broke in half!

What cool perspective of the hell hole area.

There is one part that is not quite original though. I'm sure it's made that way for ease of manufacturing, but it's worth pointing out for educational purposes.

Click to view attachment

This portion is double layered in the original pieces. The 'corrugated' metal was a C shape that fit inside the U shaped inner longitudinal.

Click to view attachment

Looked at all of these early today. They really look good, but hope like hell I never need any of them.

Bob

it really amazes me how many parts comprise this area and it looks like they all sort of converge at once, right where the strength of the car exists! No wonder they so easily broke in half.

If you are replacinga portion the section you are indicating with the ribs, Does anyone know if it will be as strong as the original? You would have a portion with the ribs and a portion with the inner stiffener. With the inner stiffener only spot welded to the outer skin wouldn't it be difficult to get it integrated with the new ribbed skin? I hope I explained that clearly...

Originally, the outer skin is flat, and inner piece has ribs. It sounded like you were a little unclear on that point.

Very very good observation. Yes it does not look original! This part is stamped from a heavier gauge metal and then ribbed for extra strengh, the factory piece being thinner metal and sandwiched with ribs only on the thinner inside piece, and yes ease of manufacturing!!!!!!!! On the money!!!!!!!

Thicker metal, good to know and nice solution.

I get that but I guess I am asking do you need to replace the whole piece or can you just replace a portion and attempt to weld the new thicker, ribbed material to both the outer skin and the remaining inner stiffener?

It just seems that things would be getting pretty cut up within the long and I was concerned with strength.

The reason I ask is I am wrestling with the decision of whether to buy the replacement piece or try to fabricate what I have to cut out due to rust

If you cut your outer skin say 4" futher (2" per side of cut) then the inner, you could weld the new piece to your existing inner and make a new smooth outer skin, thus keeping 2 layers and an OE appearance.

Sorry John, I misunderstood your confusion...

My philosophy is to replace as little material as possible. If your welds are solid and you use sufficiently thick material you shouldn't have a problem. If you can weld in the inner piece and then weld the outer piece, that would be best, but a thicker piece (16 guage or so) would work as well. It all depends on how big of a section you are replacing.

I would always suggest to fabricate a piece if the longitudinal under the battery has only one rust hole on the top of it. This lets every thing stay in place and makes for an easy repair. (of course the engine has to be removed to do this) Then the engine shelf is easily installed and then the battery tray and support.

Very nice, Thanks for posting those.

we would suggest that with today's welding equipment there is not a problem splicing except though to use common sense when cutting as not to interfere with the reinforcements inside the frame member (meaning cut more or less as not to interfere, but replace the affected area including the whole reinforcement.

great pics...Dok-tor....
and it is gud to see you aboard...

thank you! I have many pics that I will post when appropriate or when asked of course!!!!


That piece sort of reminds me of buying a brick from the empire state building to say you own a piece of the building. "Be the first in your neighboorhood to own a piece of a 914!"

I will more than need a few of those parts... am I the only one who has problems with the AA site not showing pics of most of these parts though? pics are just little red x's, not found... could we put prices next to each of those listed on the first post?

George,

Any solutions for the passengers side yet?

don't you mean drivers-side?

unless you recently moved to england ...
Andy

Uhhhhhhhhh

Yes... any solution for the drivers side yet?

You betcha! One of these!

Can you lop off the back 1/2 of that and send it to me?

The drivers side was not a problem for us here in the south but if we have to replace this area we cut and weld in a used piece or for the section on the longitudinal that is covered with the carpet, we can turn one of the right ones upside down and use it!
We too like Perry have a bunch of the new left longtiudinals in stock but there is just no call for them!!!!!! How much for yours Perry?

I have a weird NorCal car that has great longs etc. No rust EXCEPT the hell holes. They must have gotten plugged. I currently have a couple of Mark Blands kits. I think these will work but it sure would be nice to have a drivers and passengers shelf to throw in there.

What is a Mark Blands kit?

I know of 2 kits Engman (Mark Bland) sells. One is a reinforcment for the inside of the tub. 3 formed pieces I believe. Then there is the Hell Hole Kit for the CSOB. This is a flat sheet metal kit for repair to the top of the Hell Hole. There are some pieces to repair the lower inner whelhouse, upper firewall (behind the seat) and the engine shelf. Some forming is required on all these pieces.

Clicky Here

About 650. There are also many more rust repair parts now made for the 914 and we really thank the manufacturers who have taken the time and invested the money in making the parts. It really speaks for the popularity of the car.

Hey George, the online catalog doesn't show that inner long.

calling dr914.......

Yes, it is there somewhere, maybe shown as part of the whole piece. It has a drawing for the part in the catalog and then also a pic of the individual prices! Nice work you are doing, saving a 914!