I was told by the PO that when he had the engine rebuilt he had hydraulic lifters put in. From what I've read here so far, this really didn't do me any favors except for possibly not having to adjust them, or adjust them quite as often anyway. I've read posts that say adjustments aren't necessary, and ones that say they are (from Jake who I trust on this matter...).

There's a little more knocking coming from the engine when first starting the car then I remember there usually being, which made me think an adjustment might be due. (Although it does go away after a few minutes.)

I've read the past posts regarding how to tell if I do have hydraulics or not, but haven't found anything regarding how to adjust them or even how to tell if they need adjusting. Does anyone have any info on this, or a link to a thread I may have missed?

Thanks!

every 20k i believe adjustments are required.

Hydros pump up, so they require some oil to do that.

You can bleed 'em in a container of oil. You can set 'em at zero lash plus one-half turn in (or two turns, depending on which manual you believe). Or you can s--tcan them alltogether for solids. Which requires a teardown of the motor. Ugh.

Try them at zero lash (the adjuster just touches the valve tip) plus one-half turn in. Yeah, "negative" clearance. If they're still too noisy, maybe try one turn, then two. As I said, it depends on which manual you choose to believe in.

--DD

Shitcan them (and their fellow cam). Go with solid lifters and a compatible cam.

I think Slits told me the followig:

"I adjusts them using a sun dial and the lid of a "Non Porpoise" Tuna can for exact lash. AND he only sets the adjusters correctly during a lunar equinox.


Well... Thats one way.... I bet the wondrous Crusty One will be along and get to the truth of the matter.. If my Ouija board is correct..

Regards,

C + T

What weight oil are you running? If it is too thin, the lifters will take a litle longer to pump up. If it has been a while since you changed the oil, I would recommend doing that while you adjust them. Also throw down a little extra cash and get a good filter that has a drain back valve. Not Fram or even Bosch. The stock OE Mann filters are the best for stock motors. Should also keep crap from building up in the lifters and gettin them stuck.

Adjustment varies with cam/lifter manufacturer. Not something you can easily figure out. Correct preload positions the piston within the lifter in the center of its motion, preventing valvetrain problems/damage due to the lifter bottoming or topping out. You really need to find out the recommendation of the product you have, but 1-2 turns of the screw AFTER it's set at zero lash should get you in the ballpark. Zero it with your fingertips, adjust it with a screwdriver, lock the nut down. AFIK, it's "fire and forget it". Set each one at the base of the cam lobe. See my article on it somewhere ............ The Cap'n